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Old 08-23-2013, 06:06 AM   #4051
Lupin 3rd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxermoto View Post
Hello I currently have 2001 WR forks on my f650gs and I got a 2008 yz forks. does anyone know if they will fit on the f650gs? thanks.
You'll need matching triples and you'll have to shave some material off the headlight bracket on the GS. Some people on this thread have used the 48mm forks. What's your reason for wanting to change?

Have you seen this info on Wayne's page: http://www.f650gs.crossroadz.com.au/ForkUpgrades.html
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Old 08-23-2013, 02:14 PM   #4052
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So I know a lot of you out there are doing a swap be it WP or the YZ, so I know there are some used post 2003 Dakar forks out there that are in working order. (sorry if this is not the place for this... if not I'll take the bashing with grace and relocate). I have an 03 that just so happens to have been manufactured before the fork upgrade. I'm just looking to swap in some used new style forks for peace of mind. If anybody has some new style Dakar forks floating around I would be interesting in purchasing them! PM if ya got the goods!
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:15 PM   #4053
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Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
Kainic, thanks, people are now sending me info to add to it here and there so it is becoming a sum of knowledge from quite a few people

Added more info on the radiator fan today as well as a non bmw source for the dual spark ignition coils, the info came from one of the 650X guys cause they want the info on line when out on the road. Gravelseeker let me know to add his flex oil line as well which I did yesterday.

Re the VR Joel Wiseman on advrider thread posted that he checked with BMW NA and the very latest BMW VR's have higher output as the other models were also suffering poor battery life. Would still prefer the Shindengen though
Why the Shindengen VR over the apparently updated BMW VR?
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Old 08-25-2013, 08:45 PM   #4054
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The shindengen is a FET device, FET are faster more modern switching elements than the stock SCR type VR which should make for better regulation plus run cooler due less internal power consumption in the switching element and the price is lower without the BMW mark up. In addition the use of the connectors on the VR means easier replacement and many of the Japanese bikes use Shindengen VR's so replacements out on the road should be easier to come by.

The newer FH020 has a higher current capability as well meaning more overhead. I had not heard of a failure in the Shindengen on a GS until last week, one of the Norwegian riders had a FH012 blow on him, He is replacing it with an FH020
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Old 08-26-2013, 05:57 PM   #4055
Gangplank
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ABS Removal

Need a little help from anyone who has done the ABS removal.

I followed the suggestion found online at WayneC1's site: http://www.f650gs.crossroadz.com.au/...orkNotesYZ.pdf


Says to "Remove the cover off the ABS main connector and find and clip the following wires as close to the back of the connector as you can:

Yellow
White with black trace
White with brown trace
Brown with black trace

Prepare each for soldering and connect :

Yellow to White with black trace
White with brown trace to brown with black trace.

To test, turn the key on and spin the back wheel. You will see your speedometer register the movement. If not, check your connections.
When completed shrink wrap the solder joints and tuck them back into the connector."

Here is how I connected them:



Same part without the rag behind it:


My speedo still didn't work. Anyone who has done it have any info? Am I doing something wrong or do I need to connect any other wires?

Could it be a fuse? and if so which one?

If anyone has the wiring diagram or a link to it that might help too.

Thanks!
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:04 PM   #4056
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Might have figured it out. I found this in the FAQ:


"Member seh750 managed to remove ABS from their bike. After removing the ABS unit itself, they found the speedo did not function. The solution: According to the wiring diagram, the speedo signal goes straight from the ABS to the dash and does not go to the BMS. I figured it out, either my bike is different or the wiring diagram I looked at is different, but swapping pin 1 and pin 3 solved the problem..... Pin 1 and 3 on the ABS connector. Pin 1 (white with black stripe) connects to pin 24 (yellow) and pin 3 (white with brown? stripe) connects to brown/ground (don't recall the pin number). - So yes, you can remove the full ABS system, and using seh750's suggestion, still have the speedo working."


So then the solution is to connect


Pin 1 = White w/ Black Stripe to to the Yellow Wire
Pin 3 = White w. Brown Stripe to the Brown ground (according to the pinout diagram on WayneC1's site it might be 19 or 16)


I'll have to test that out and see if it works.

The above matches the pin out info on WayneC1's site too!! Wayne, thanks for collecting such good info!! http://www.f650gs.crossroadz.com.au/BrakesAndABS.html
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Old 08-27-2013, 05:13 AM   #4057
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Gangplank, found an old pic and it does show Brown-White connected to Brown
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:55 AM   #4058
Lupin 3rd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
So then the solution is to connect

Pin 1 = White w/ Black Stripe to to the Yellow Wire
Pin 3 = White w. Brown Stripe to the Brown ground (according to the pinout diagram on WayneC1's site it might be 19 or 16)
Just did my ABS removal and that is the correct match. I had the same issue: it's not white/brown to brown/black but white/brown to brown (ground) wire.
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:39 AM   #4059
Gangplank
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Ok thanks you guys.

Now my battery is toast too so gotta get a new one of those. Ill test this as soon as I get that in.
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Old 08-28-2013, 05:18 AM   #4060
Lupin 3rd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
Ok thanks you guys.

Now my battery is toast too so gotta get a new one of those. Ill test this as soon as I get that in.
Are you going to relocate the battery to where the ABS pump was? If so how do you plan to extend the cables?
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:05 AM   #4061
Gangplank
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lupin 3rd View Post
Are you going to relocate the battery to where the ABS pump was? If so how do you plan to extend the cables?
I thought about it but decided not to do it. I'm leaving it in the stock position for now and using a standard battery. In the future I'll get a light weight (Antigravity Battery) and just put it in the stock location. The light weight batteries are so much lighter that moving it doesn't make much sense at that point. Also moving it would make getting to the battery to change it or whatever else a real PITA. Not that it happens that often but if I had a dead battery on a trip I'd hate to have to remove the sub frame to get to it.
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:23 AM   #4062
Gangplank
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
So then the solution is to connect

Pin 1 = White w/ Black Stripe to to the Yellow Wire
Pin 3 = White w. Brown Stripe to the Brown ground (according to the pinout diagram on WayneC1's site it might be 19 or 16)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lupin 3rd View Post
Just did my ABS removal and that is the correct match. I had the same issue: it's not white/brown to brown/black but white/brown to brown (ground) wire.

I suspect based on the wire diagrams I've seen that connecting either the wire from Pin 1 (White w/ Black Trace) OR pin 3 (White w/ Brown Trace) to the Yellow wire (Pin 24 I believe it is) will have the speedo working. Both of those 2 wires are from the rear ABS/Speedo sensor and one of the signals needs to go to the speedo via the yellow wire. The other is grounded to avoid a fault issue OR on the newer bikes it might be able to be left as an open circuit.

An alternative to cutting the wires would be to use a jumper wire but the only reason to do that is if you were going to try and put the ABS back on. I doubt that will happen to my bike.
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:29 AM   #4063
WayneC1
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With the confirmations above on the ABS I will update the YZConversion notes I have on line so we dont have the confusion again

With relocating the battery Dwayne wrote up a thread here a long time ago and in it he unwound the harness to separate the stater cable from the other electrical cables and that totally sorted the shock adjuster chafing as well as shortening the starter cable. I got Dwayne's approval to put a pdf of his thread in mods on my web into you can grab it from there
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:09 AM   #4064
Gangplank
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
With the confirmations above on the ABS I will update the YZConversion notes I have on line so we dont have the confusion again

With relocating the battery Dwayne wrote up a thread here a long time ago and in it he unwound the harness to separate the stater cable from the other electrical cables and that totally sorted the shock adjuster chafing as well as shortening the starter cable. I got Dwayne's approval to put a pdf of his thread in mods on my web into you can grab it from there

I should have final confirmation in a day or two when the battery arrives but I think Lupin already confirmed it. I will try and remember to test both Pin 1 and pin 3 going to yellow and will let you know. Will also try open circuit and ground if I have time.
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:15 AM   #4065
GSBS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
With the confirmations above on the ABS I will update the YZConversion notes I have on line so we dont have the confusion again

With relocating the battery Dwayne wrote up a thread here a long time ago and in it he unwound the harness to separate the stater cable from the other electrical cables and that totally sorted the shock adjuster chafing as well as shortening the starter cable. I got Dwayne's approval to put a pdf of his thread in mods on my web into you can grab it from there
When I did my 03 Dakar last year, I followed your PDF notes exactly when I jumped these wires. Turned on the switch, spun the rear wheel, speedo worked as always. That was almost 20K miles ago and it never had a hiccup.
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