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Old 09-02-2013, 08:35 AM   #1
randyo OP
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Studs

it's getting to be that time of year, winter will soon be upon us and I am trying to decide which route to take

my previous experience with studs, I drilled stud pockets in Karoo Ts and inserted standard automotive studs with a pneumatic gun, I got 1 season out of the rear then went to the darkside with a General Altimax Arctic in the rear which I will continue to use

my front lasted 4 seasons but now must be replaced, I am debating using Aerostitch self tapping studs instead. Anyone with any experience that can tell me if they work better or worse than regular studs ? Cost for studs from Stitch is outrageous,$109 per bag of 100.

I know I'll need about 180 studs for my front wheel, I stud the center heaviest and the further from the center the fewer studs, outer knobs I leave unstudded, my theory is on ice, I won't be leaning much and when I am on dry pavement, I will want a rubber contact patch instead of studded after 4 winters and some insane conditions, my theory has held



auto studs are $75 for a bag of 1000, I'm also thinking buying my own pneumatic gun $350-$400



because the pockets that get drilled are not the correct shape like a molded stud pocket in a car tire, it takes 50-100 mile of sketchy riding for the studs to get seated, but once they get seated

in 4 winters/approx 14k miles of use, I didn't throw any studs in the front tire

I guess mostly I'd like experience of performance, longevity and whether or not Aerostitch studs are subject to getting thrown
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Old 09-02-2013, 10:27 AM   #2
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I've used both, and find standard automotive studs will stay in place longer. Function wise there is absolutely no difference.
Keep in mind I'm using them on a sidecar rig that subjects them to lateral loads not experienced on a 2 wheeler, and that I push it much harder than you can on a 2 wheeler, so YMMV.

A local tire shop will stud my tires for $40, as apposed to $100 for 1.5 tires with the aerostitch studs.
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Old 09-02-2013, 11:07 AM   #3
randyo OP
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do you drill your own stud pockets or do they so that as part of the $40?
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Old 09-02-2013, 02:45 PM   #4
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Here are some.



Wait, what?
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Old 09-02-2013, 04:32 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randyo View Post
do you drill your own stud pockets or do they so that as part of the $40?
Started out that they would drill them, but they decided it was too time consuming, and wanted $20 more if they drill.
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Old 09-02-2013, 04:35 PM   #6
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Old 09-02-2013, 04:53 PM   #7
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Old 09-02-2013, 05:01 PM   #8
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I have done a lot of research on studs... There is a big difference between street studs and ice racing studs. Tungsten carbide is expensive, but the best for on the street.

Those gnarly tires and linked ones are much more ice racing oriented.
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Old 09-02-2013, 05:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windmill View Post
I've used both, and find standard automotive studs will stay in place longer. Function wise there is absolutely no difference.
Keep in mind I'm using them on a sidecar rig that subjects them to lateral loads not experienced on a 2 wheeler, and that I push it much harder than you can on a 2 wheeler, so YMMV.

A local tire shop will stud my tires for $40, as apposed to $100 for 1.5 tires with the aerostitch studs.
I have heard for other sources that aerostitch studs don't stay in place as well

as far as pushin it, when riding in blizzard conditions or other "only lunatics are on the road conditions" , I find myself catching up with what ever is in front of me, then waiting for them to pull off, so I can speed up again, the car tire in back was an experiment that was successful beyond my wildest expectations and its not even studded, just a regular old winter tire

what tires are you studding ? I had good luck with the Karoo T, which I'll probably use again, knobs are deep enuf for a 10mm stud
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:19 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randyo View Post
I have heard for other sources that aerostitch studs don't stay in place as well

as far as pushin it, when riding in blizzard conditions or other "only lunatics are on the road conditions" , I find myself catching up with what ever is in front of me, then waiting for them to pull off, so I can speed up again, the car tire in back was an experiment that was successful beyond my wildest expectations and its not even studded, just a regular old winter tire

what tires are you studding ? I had good luck with the Karoo T, which I'll probably use again, knobs are deep enuf for a 10mm stud
I've studded the Heidenau K37, Duro 207, and the Kenda 335. Unfortunately there are no automotive winter tires that will fit a Ural, though the k37 is also available in a winter traction compound they call "snowtex".

When I say "pushing it" I mean nonsense such as drifting, full throttle power slides, doing doughnuts, steep climbs over rocks and deadfalls when off pavement, and riding snowmobile trails, which are all tough on studs.



If you look close, you can see aerostich studs in a Duro 307 on the spare tire. I usually save it just for bad conditions such as solid ice, or fresh snow over compact snow or ice.

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Old 09-03-2013, 05:32 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KustomizingKid View Post
I have done a lot of research on studs... There is a big difference between street studs and ice racing studs. Tungsten carbide is expensive, but the best for on the street.

Those gnarly tires and linked ones are much more ice racing oriented.
Ahh sorry, I thought you were building them for the ice.
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Old 09-03-2013, 06:03 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Kafn8td View Post
Ahh sorry, I thought you were building them for the ice.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDrRieJK3aQ
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Old 09-03-2013, 08:19 AM   #13
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Concerning drilling your own tires for automotive studs, I did it for my truck tires. The local tire shop 'experts' said that they would all fall out right away because of not having the correct ' mushroom shaped' hole. So I proved them wrong by doing a two step drilling process that gave me the correct hole shape (time consuming). Not to mention that I also dipped the studs in rubber cement before riveting them in (extra time consuming and messy). Worked like a charm and only lost 1 or 2 studs a tire over two winters of doing donuts and tail slides at every opportunity. It was definitely worth all the effort (and always enjoyable to prove the 'experts' wrong)

Back to motorcycles, a former coworker did a lot of research into tire studding while making his own studding apparatus that took far less time than the hand gun. He commented that they used a black locktite for extra assurance. His experience was that the locktite bond was stronger than the rubber and studs that did come out had literally ripped a chunk of tire out with it.
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:36 AM   #14
randyo OP
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Originally Posted by i_isntreal View Post
Concerning drilling your own tires for automotive studs, I did it for my truck tires. The local tire shop 'experts' said that they would all fall out right away because of not having the correct ' mushroom shaped' hole. So I proved them wrong by doing a two step drilling process that gave me the correct hole shape (time consuming). Not to mention that I also dipped the studs in rubber cement before riveting them in (extra time consuming and messy). Worked like a charm and only lost 1 or 2 studs a tire over two winters of doing donuts and tail slides at every opportunity. It was definitely worth all the effort (and always enjoyable to prove the 'experts' wrong)
I say not worth the effort

I just drilled straight holes using a burr bit

did not loose a single stud in 4 winters/14k miles on my front tire
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:49 AM   #15
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This is a nice problem that I don't need a solution for.


I'm curious how those studded tires behave on paved roads that aren't covered in ice or snow. I would expect them to be kind of dangerous in those conditions.
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