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Old 09-01-2013, 02:36 AM   #1381
Box'a'bits OP
In need of repair
 
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
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Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
You gonna do it (gearbox repair) yourself?
Thats the plan. However, dependent of how things go, that may change.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltaire View Post
I was going to put an oil cooler on the R90 but Max said they don't really need one, he even scanned it with his infra red temp guage and it was way cooler than Trustme's Triumph.
Consensus (at least on ADVrider) is that the oil coolers are only needed on the faired bikes. However I prefer to retain Gus's given some of the slow speed running he does

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_S View Post
I suppose all you airhead guys are stuck in some sort of time warp (its just a step to the left...).
Yup.
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Originally Posted by Mark_S View Post
Thanks Steve for the ride today - I needed to get out and clear my head.

I think Chris makes a pretty good replacement for Bart - He rides a dr, he's the same dimensions, and he rides quick. He'll never be a complete replacement for Bart though - he's too much of a nice guy.
It was a blast.
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Old 09-02-2013, 12:20 AM   #1382
bart-nz
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Originally Posted by Mark_S View Post
I think Chris makes a pretty good replacement for Bart - He rides a dr, he's the same dimensions, and he rides quick. He'll never be a complete replacement for Bart though - he's too much of a nice guy.
Nice is over-rated.
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Old 09-02-2013, 06:17 PM   #1383
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
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Gearbox refresh part 2

Spent a bit of time doing more gearbox disassembly. The output & intermediate shafts were not shifting, despite heating the engine side of the gearbox, & I was a little stuck.

Had a bit of a search through the interweb to find collective wisdom. Here’s a few useful links:
Rob Farmer’s response to Padmei’s earlier question was very helpful.

Reinstalled the output flange, secured that in my little vice, made sure the gearbox could slide on a piece of tin, heated the case again, then gave the case a few sharp taps with a BFH (protecting the case with a piece of plywood). The output bearing released & hey presto.



The gear clusters look good, but there is a little pitting on what I think is the output shaft 3rd gear.



The selector fork also has some wear.



The engine side output shaft bearing doesn’t have a circlip on it, so I’ll likely send this out for machining.



The clutch pushrod seal on the input shaft appears to have been glued in place.

I’ve started pulling the bearings off. The (spendy) input bearing appears a little loose in the case. Given the types of bearings in the box, the box has been apart before.

Anyone got a bearing splitter they can lend? Need to get a couple of bearings off shafts where they sit too close to gears.
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It's just better when there's twins involved....

Box'a'bits screwed with this post 09-02-2013 at 06:31 PM
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Old 09-02-2013, 10:27 PM   #1384
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Gearbox disassembly part 3

This succession of photos is really a resource to remind me how to put things back together again.

Using first gear to pull the output shaft bearing off. Excuse the messy workspace. If I'd known you were coming...


Nah, probably not even then. First gear floats on a bronze bush, with a washer behind it












Disassemble? No disassemble! Johnny Five is alive!


The box was a 82-83 build date, but has been reconditioned since then, as evidenced by the bearings. So definitely not original to Gus.

Can't disassemble the input shaft without a bearing splitter or similar. The output shaft is looking not so impressive, & needs a circlip groove machined. The box needs a bigsert. I need bearings, & seals. The input bearing is loose in the box & the top hat on which this rolls has a groove from the input seal, so will need to be replaced. I probably wont replace third gear. Whilst there is some surface pitting, overall it looks okay. Hmmm, Spendy...
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Box'a'bits screwed with this post 09-29-2013 at 02:57 AM Reason: sgellinp
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:31 AM   #1385
Padmei
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Good work. You are surely further along the path to airhead guruness than I
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:37 AM   #1386
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Good work. You are surely further along the path to airhead guruness than I
Nope, just cheap.
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:38 AM   #1387
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How'd you get on with your flash muffler?
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:51 AM   #1388
Box'a'bits OP
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Sitting in the corner, waiting for me to get it reworked to fit Gus. Might happen sometime in the next 12 mths. Couple of issues:

1. It's a right hand muffler - bit of an oversight there;
2. When Damon reworked the Y-pipe to clear the tyre, he moved the muffler closer to the rear guard - so the muffler wouldn't fit anyway.

At some stage, when I have lots of cash (so not the near future) I'll rework that area, fit an air fuel meter, & fit the Ti muffler..
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:31 PM   #1389
Voltaire
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Auckland,New Zealand
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I've got a bearing splitter, similar to this one , I could get it to Victoria St Petone for pick up via internal mail,may take a few days if your interested.
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Old 09-12-2013, 03:13 PM   #1390
darklight79
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Wunderlich now selling rebuilt trans for 1500 with your core
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Old 09-15-2013, 11:24 PM   #1391
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I took the day off today to do a no of jobs I couldn't get done during the weekend. This included visiting the machinist with the gearbox case, the gearbox output shaft, & Gus’s carbs to:
  • To get the drain plug repaired.
  • Cut the output shaft circlip groove (the output shaft didn’t have one);
  • Look at putting a spigot on Gus’s carbs so that I can run a breather tube further up the frame, to allow a deeper fording depth.
The breather is under the press fit circular steel cover. It just flicks off if you put a screw driver under it. There is another on the other side, but I think that's a blank. Should be relatively straight forward to do. I also need to think about breathers for the final drive (maybe next time).



I have also ordered the new gearbox bearings today. Mana Bearings are investigating price & availability of the input shaft bearing. They are sure they can get it, but it’ll need to come into the country. We'll see how this compares to the UK suppliers/ Part of the reason for using NZ suppliers is a quality control issue - I'm not sure what I'll get from the UK.

I’ll also put through an order tonight to get the seals & gaskets to allow reassembly. I'll likely need to do another order for shims etc.
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It's just better when there's twins involved....

Box'a'bits screwed with this post 09-15-2013 at 11:30 PM
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Old 09-15-2013, 11:38 PM   #1392
Padmei
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The old character with the G/S the other day had a couple of good breather setups. He had taken the final drive breather bolt off & put on a bolt with a nipple threaded into it then a transparent blue pipe up high. I don't think he had a carb breather setup.
How high are you going to go? You planning to do the road of bones??? Wouldn't you just need to unclip the float bowl if yo thought there was water going in? How does the endurolast system handle the water?

Don't order shims - i've got shitloads of them you can pick from. Doing bins or works?
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:27 AM   #1393
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I've had a few crossings where Gus has started to cough when I've gone a bit deep. One day that won't work out as well. I'd prefer not to have to push him out of stream, especially when the entry / exit is a bit steep. Easy enough (looking) mod to gain piece of mind. The main reason I'm doing it now is that I have to get John to do some gearbox work for me anyway, & I've just tacked this carb mod on the end of that work. He's a clever guy, & I'm certain this is not too much of stretch for him.

Off Topic, he was doing some work on EddieB's old G/S (the one with the bumblebee tank). Good to see that still around.

WRT fording;
  • The bean can is sealed.
  • The high tension leads / spark plug caps / sparkplugs are rubber & silicon sealed, so usually no issues there. I've taken Gus through stream crossings deeper than the cylinders. But I have also cracked a spark plug cap (on the 1st Odlins Rd ride), & if you take an unsealed high tension line through a deep water - then you'll be very aware about it.
  • The alternator seems to work just fine in deep water, & even if it didn't, it isn't going to suffer from the dunking.
The final drive breather set up for the Monos is different to the Paralevers. Paras have a push in plastic set up (I understand). I actually haven't looked too hard at this area yet.

Thanks for the offer re the shims - I may take you up on that.

Motobins was cheaper when I costed them out - but I need a second hand selector forks from Motorworks.
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My '91 R100GS thread is here
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It's just better when there's twins involved....

Box'a'bits screwed with this post 09-16-2013 at 02:32 AM
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Old 09-16-2013, 01:31 AM   #1394
Padmei
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Ohh if you haven't already put the order in could you please add a rear drive breather cover cap on the order? i'll fix you up on the ctc
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Old 09-16-2013, 01:43 AM   #1395
Box'a'bits OP
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Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
Ohh if you haven't already put the order in could you please add a rear drive breather cover cap on the order? i'll fix you up on the ctc
Will do.
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It's just better when there's twins involved....
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