|09-04-2013, 11:45 AM||#16|
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Northern NewEngland
I can't say about the aerostitch studs, but the drilled & pneumaticly inserted auto studs, yes
they act and handle the same as they do on a car, you can hear the tic tic tic of studs contacting the pavement, braking distance is increased, ride accordingly, cornering traction is reduced, ride accordingly, its not like you ride 100mph in freezing weather anyway, I don't stud the outer knobs just so that if I do lean that much and need the traction cornering, I'm not on the studded portion of the tire
dangerous, not if you understand the limitations and ride accordingly
IBA # 9560
A man with a gun is a citizen
A man without a gun is a subject
|10-25-2013, 06:18 PM||#17|
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: NW Pa
I run the Aerostich off-road studs in the rear tire (Kenda TrakMaster II) of my TE450. I've used it on road and off for about 6 seasons. I've never lost a stud. They get alot of grip. I'm very careful if I need to ride on dry pavement with them tho'.
Aerostich suggests studding every other knob, thereby taking advantage of the studs on ice, and the rubber on dry or wet roads. Kind of a trade off for the best traction in different conditions. I put one stud in each knob on the rear tire and that was almost 100 studs.
I've always used ice screws in the front tire.
This year, I'm going to stud up both ends of my DRZ using Aerostich's 'every other knob' system.
I think WER sells 'grip studs' too. Same product as far as I can see.
|11-04-2013, 01:15 AM||#18|
Alaska Born Ducatisti
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Randy, you been winter riding long enough that I thought you had it all figured out.
I've never thrown any of my auto studs either but have heard of Aerostich being thrown.
I've totally been amazed with the performance of one car stud per knob in Kenda Trackmasters. Six good scratches in the ice when I stomp on the rear brake and enough rubber on the pavement that I've always felt confident out on the highway. Maybe part of it is the great geometry of the KLR, eh?!? Tell you what tho, I am glad I only have 37hp so my wheelspin is very controllable. I've not laid it down accidentally in 4 winters with the front always holding and the rear kicking out very predictably.
Randy, I suggest doing what we've done up here. Have a tire studding party where folks can come over and practice drilling on a test tire and maybe contribute towards a gun or studs. There are always some used stud guns up for sale in the Fall and winter up here.
Good luck and have fun, Mark H.
My Ride Reports of Alaska & The Yukon
|11-04-2013, 02:33 AM||#19|
Castle Anthrax troll
Joined: Jul 2008
I like the snowman. Is that your good luck charm to ward off evil snowplow drivers?
John (sugarhillctd on the world-wide K11OG forum)
'92 K100RS + '12 DRZ400
|11-04-2013, 05:48 AM||#20|
silly aluminum boxes
Joined: May 2012
Location: Detroit & Düsseldorf
A small but apparently non-functioning part of my brain is suddenly thinking this is a good idea.
*added to the list of reasons to grab a little dirt bike!
|11-04-2013, 07:01 PM||#21|
born to be wild
Joined: Jun 2013
Location: on the road
i´m new here in the upcoming cold riding conditions. Just rode up from southamerica in two years with my 1100GS and want to keep on riding during the winter in canada. I spend most of the time on Metzeler Tourance and never had a problem. What would you recomment for a heavy loaded bike?
Are nobbies enough? Or should i put studs in the tires? how many should i put in? One in each nobb or more?
I mainly wanna stick to paved roads and keep an eye on the weather not to hit bad conditions. But i wanna be ready to ride on iced roads and snow. So i´m looking for a compromise for pavement, snow and ice.
thanks in advance!
J'ai une Tour Eiffel dans mon pantalon
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