Go Back   ADVrider > Riding > Epic Ride Reports
User Name
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 08-25-2013, 05:31 AM   #31
momi20 OP
Gnarly Adventurer
momi20's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Modena-Italy
Oddometer: 222
Saturday June 1
I have decided: It's better to skip the visit to El Tortuguero. It probably would have been interesting if yI had had the chance to see turtles spawn, but this isn't the right period. Ok let's go to Puerto Limon to see the Atlantic Ocean
Puerto Limon's harbor

A girl that works as harbor cop tells tome that here in Puerto Limon ain't tourist agency and now it's low season. Furthermore suggest to don't drive too much in the city with my luxury motorbike: I'm a good target. Ok i look at the map and drive a little bit along the oceanfront

This, at the harbor, is my first pic to the Atlantic Ocean

This should be (more or less) my arrival point

I stop for a coffe and the owner of this shop solve a mistery. This kind of shop is named Pulperia and in italian language polpo identify this mollusk

First time I have seen this name I was thinking that pulperia should be a place where is possible to eat the Polpo. This have sounded good near lakes , but sometimes in the mountains ? Pulperia is a name for little shops that sell almost everything

Finally I find the way to reach the beach. It's really low season: most of the hotel are closed

I'd like to mail this picture home, but I've got to hide the wound. My family doesn't know nothing about my fall

I begin to come back to Puerto Limon...but you know ,still my mind is thinking to El Totuguero. In Puerto Limon I ask to a truck driver and he tells to me that near Puerto Limon, Moin ther's a landing stage with launches that bring tourist to the Park. Moin is 6 miles (9 km) far from Puerto Limon: here you can see the direction

I speak with a captain launch. There are two tourists and their are going by launchas to the park: 250$ each (186 €), plus the cost of motel , minimum 30$ /night. The cost isright, because you remain 2 days in the park and the launch has to wait you to bring back here. Ok bye bye El Tortuguero. But the captain has an idea: what's about a 2 hours tour, with his launch along the river ? many animals, quiet and just 30 $...perfect. Just half hour to can come back to a Maxi Pali to buy some food and gett cash

my captain was waiting for me

just the time to look the bike and eat a fish sandwich

all the pilots of this boats have followed a course organized by the national tourist office: two main rules. The tourist is like a baby an neve speak about politic and soccer.
We will sail with this launch

momi20 screwed with this post 08-25-2013 at 08:35 AM
momi20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2013, 05:33 AM   #32
momi20 OP
Gnarly Adventurer
momi20's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Modena-Italy
Oddometer: 222
For all the trip the captain has spotted many animals...I've been able to get a pic every 10 animals

the little road that run along the river is full of motel for tourist.

The caiman ( smaller than the crocodile): he's motionless, faking to be a log, waiting for food

Finally I'm able to pic this green animal: he isn't an iguana


momi20 screwed with this post 08-25-2013 at 08:36 AM
momi20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2013, 05:34 AM   #33
momi20 OP
Gnarly Adventurer
momi20's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Modena-Italy
Oddometer: 222

Speaking with the captain, I tell to him would have been a good idea drive along the river: it's so quiet. " Mhh not a good idea " he answer. This is an uninhabited zone, yes there are motel, but now, during the low season pandillas (gangs) are everywhere. If they see a biker, alone, for sure I can go in a big trouble. he explain that at the beginning of the road there are a lot of cops, but they don't go in the territory to check and a lot of them are connected with pandillas.

He stops the launch in front of a house. Just yesterday a 26 years old biologist was killed. His name is Jairo Mora Sandoval, born in Costa Rica. He was here to study turtles and was involved against poaches of eggs turtles. This house has been his laboratory. On May 31 (yesterday) a bunch of masked man have killed him, probably becouse he had reported to the police about this illegal trade.
A modern hero, maybe unknown for most of the people

this is a picture (from internet) of Jairo

Now I start the way back to Mexico City. I've already forgotten Panama. The problem aren't miles, but the time that you can have to drive everyday. During this period of the year the rain really can limit your daily mileage. Furthermore, Panama means two crossing border more. At the moment I've got to cross 4 borders to reach Mexico.

Are we talking about the rain ? Her's it: two hours stop. When a young mom comes with her child I lend my towel

Around late afternoon I reach San Josè: I prefer to avoid big cities, but now is better to stop. At a crossroad I ask to a taxi driver if one of the hotel that I see is cheap, but with the parking. He smile and tell to me that this isn't a zone for tourist...even if I remain in the room. He gives me sign to follow him. After 10 minutes we arrive in a very dangerous zone af San Josè...for me: Marriot, Sheraton, McDonalds, luxury shops and big cars. Ohh prices in this place can kill me. But fortunately he sign at a friendly name: Youth Hostel Aldea, that's perfect. 13 $ /night, internal parking and free kitchen

rice for dinner

during the dinner I met a canadian girl, 20 years old: she's travelling alone in Costa Rica. What a difference with italians girls, that always are afraid to travel abroad and especially alone: almost impossible to see one outside the bigfoot.

very nice the hostel furniture

momi20 screwed with this post 08-25-2013 at 08:38 AM
momi20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2013, 07:13 PM   #34
Joined: May 2011
Location: Irving, TX- El Salvador
Oddometer: 22
Originally Posted by crashmaster View Post
Its too bad that people have negative preconceptions of people they have never met, and lands in which they have never traveled. I guess we are all a bit this way, but travel changes all of these preconceptions, and its a good thing.

No eres gringo, tal vez, pero en Mexico y Centro America, todos los extranjeros son gringos.

Your English is plenty good enough, well done on the report.
HAHAHAA you are right about it!! I'm from El Salvador, and whenever we see white people without knowing where they are from, for us are "gringos"
Meme is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2013, 12:58 PM   #35
Gnarly Adventurer
tradex56's Avatar
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: friuli ITALY
Oddometer: 143
ciao Momi

ciao Momi,,, sempre grande avventuriero. Ti segua da quando avevi il DR 350. C'è l'hai ancora???
tradex56 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2013, 03:05 PM   #36
momi20 OP
Gnarly Adventurer
momi20's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Modena-Italy
Oddometer: 222
Sunday June 2


outside the hostel ther's a running competition

I reach Liberia early, but due to Sunday in the hospital isn't possible take out stitches

Ok it's better to go to the Nicaragua border

again at the Costa Rica border I notice something

It's the Gionata Nencini's mark of his project Partire Per

There are a lot of volcanos in Nicaragua

Stop due to cloud burst and I see a damaged bolt in the support of my left pannier...obviously is the one without the look

I arrive in Granada still with daylight and in an internet pooint I can find some adresses of hostels: the problem is always the same. Not all have the parking for the bike.

Nothing with the first two hostels but I follow a bunch of guys with the rucksack and the Oasis Hostel is ok

The Kawasaki 650 is a very adaptable motorbike even as a dryer

Out for dinner and then back in the hostel. I clean and disinfect the wound on the knee. It's possible to see a little bit of infection, but I decide nothing important. Befor to go to sleep I watch a movie about the incredible story of Aron Lee Ralston the american mountaineer that in 2003 cut his arm to can save life...I don't now why, but I tocuh my knee

Monday June 3

I wake up very early so, before breakfast i walk a little bit trough Granada

have you ever seen a news-stand like that ?

this kind of butcher shops are very common especially in Asia and Africa

the hostel's breakfast is fantastic

Going out of Granada, I see the sign of an hospital, supported by the japanese govenement: why not ? Here is possible to take out stitches, but I was right: still a little bit of infection, so the doctor prescribes some antibiotic..again

In the pharmacy I notice a water supplier: drugs are expansive and so, in this countries, people can buy them one-by-one and take in the pharmacy

around noon stop to repair the bolt. fantastic this mechanic shops in Central America

to optimize the stop I decide to eat. I've chosen a restaurant "A la Carte", the Maxi Pali and his fish menù

After lunch I start and I see a sign for a volcano: it's the Volcano Motombo, the Nicaragua's symbol

I'm in Nicaragua, the volcanos land, I've got to see one. I watch my GPS with mileage and it's possible to do a little diversion

Before the volcano's zone ther's an enclosure and the minders tell to me that to visit the volcano you need a special permit that just in the capital is possible get, through a tourist agency...ok how much does it costs an exception ? 4 $ ( 100 corderas) and they allow me to drive on the road to volcano Motombo: just follow yellow arrows

sometimes is possible see the volcano. It's fantastic, just me, the volcano and my motorbike...I hopr, I don't know what kind of people you can met along this road. It was'nt a good idea to drive alone.

The problem is that the road begin to become too much difficult...for a biker like me. The ground is always more soft and hot. I can get stuck: so I decided to come back. The walk to the volcano is a 10 hours trekking and normally tourists sleep there.

Driving to the main road I had a stop to drink in a pulperia...2 hours speaking with the people

We speak abotu school, economy and politic. Too many politics, too much money for politic salaries and most of them, here, are nicknamed "Politics si senor ( the yes sir/no sir)'s sounds familiart to me
For the night Malpasillo, a city of 6.000 people
A women rents cheap rooms


the anterroom

double bed

let's go to see what can offer the malpaisillo by night

a basket court

in the city, looking for dinner, I see a "restaurant" in the garden of a house.

when the smoke of the barbecue finisch, it arrives my chicken: delicious

coming back to my room I heard some music coming from the basket court: ther's a soccer tournement, for womens and men

sorry, but the video is really dark

momi20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2013, 10:48 AM   #37
momi20 OP
Gnarly Adventurer
momi20's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Modena-Italy
Oddometer: 222
Tuesday June 4

Very early in the morning I leave Malpaisillo. I've decided to drive along the Pacific side and so this means cross a little bit Honduras, to can cross El Salvador: at this point border crossing doesn't matter

Sorry, but from now you'll see some picture with a little piece blurry: the umidity (I think) had dirtied some piece of the lens
Along the road I notice people that are working with pickaxe and showel. They are part of an ONLUS (from USA) named Amigos for Christ

They are building a water main for this village, that at the moment has water just twice a week. Furthermore they'll build bathrooms for the houses. It's a mix of local people and tourists (most of them from USA). The tourists are payng around 800$ a week: they work and receive food and accomodation. The Nicaragua's governement contribute to the project covering the 5% of the costs

This engineer has studied in Italy for 8 month

I'd like to remain some day, but I've got to drive too much fro a 2 day stop
lunch before the border

Nicaragua-Honduras border

here I find the only stupid frustrated cop of all these borders. After immigration and custom a Honduras cop stops for the last check. He begins to ask to me the passport and after he asks to me wher's the voucher of the custom, for the motorbike. I tell to him that's inside the passport. From now he became hostile. He tells that custom don't stamp passport for the bike. Ok my spanish is nothing more than basic, but I think that a phrase like " Desculpe senor puede mirar en el pasaporte" should be enough clear. Obviously he had understood, but likes continue with his gag. For 10 minutes he repeat that I don't have to joke with him, because he can put me in jail for 72 hours. This man is a kind of person that needs to show his "power": so best thing is to begin with a lot of Lo Siento (I'm sorry9, in front of all other people. Excuse me, my spanish is bad, you're working and I'm a tourist, you're right I'm wrong ecc... After a while he's satisfied and watch in my passport findig hte custom ticket. Ok now he let me go and I arrive in San Lorenzo

First motel are out of my budget 30$/night, but a taxi driver brings me to a 8$/night motel

going around with the bike I watch the waterfront zone, with nice restaurants and the historical dock

I don't know what I have eaten in this little restaurant near my motel, but was good

then I find a bar with a wide screen: ther's the soccer game Jamaica-Mexico a game qualification for the world Cup

Jamaica -Mexico 1

Wednesday June 5

Today I'll entry in El Salvador

quick dry

this time I accept the help of border "employee" to get all documents. One man helps me in Hoduras and another in El Salvador. I'm pushing the bike when a cop comes and ask to me how much money they have asked me for the service: price is ok, 5 $

A news: in El Salvador you don't use a local money, but the US dollar

I don't know how log will stay in El Salvador. The transit permit of 24 hours is quick to obtain, but the visa transit is a different thing. Another proble at the custom ther's some problem with the server and all comunication are going by the end I've waited for 3 hours

Is afternoon when I can start and so Usulutan become my stop. i find a motel with the right name, Milagro (Miracle)

the street market is fantastic

quando dico che sono italiano i sorrisi si sprecano

my dinner: chicken, fried and boiled, rice and something else

the dog that eat my leftover, after some minutes is alive: ok

momi20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2013, 11:55 AM   #38
Joined: Nov 2011
Oddometer: 39
mucho gracias

great report. thanks for sharing your trip with us.
henderson is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2013, 06:53 PM   #39
cristiano78's Avatar
Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Brussels - BELGIUM (but I'm Italian!!!)
Oddometer: 58
Originally Posted by tradex56 View Post
ciao Momi,,, sempre grande avventuriero. Ti segua da quando avevi il DR 350. C'è l'hai ancora???
Ciao Momi, non ci conosciamo ma anche io ho letto un tuo report di un viaggio in Asia (credo sul forum del Suzuki DR 350) credo ...
I miei complimenti per il tuo coraggio e le bellissime esperienze che ci racconti!

Great report!
Valentino Rossi Fan --->>> #46
“There was no space ! Lorenzo knew that there was no space, 80,000 people knew that there was no space, millions on Tv knew that there was no space, but Rossi found a space and it was just the best move ever.” (Anonimus - Barcelona MotoGP 2009)
cristiano78 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2013, 08:09 AM   #40
momi20 OP
Gnarly Adventurer
momi20's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Modena-Italy
Oddometer: 222
Thursday June 6

I've in mind to drive along Pacific coastline, till Guatemala. If possible I'd like to visit the natural park of El Imposible. I've travelled for just two days in El Salvador, but this little country is amazing from a landscape viewpoint. Unfortunately the country is mainly known due his criminality problems. In the 80's, migrant people from El Salvador began in California to build one of the most dangerous gang in the world: the MS13 (Mara Salvatrucha 13). You can find the first references in the Danzel Washington's movie "Training Day"

even the National Geographic channel has made a documentary

Ok everithing that this kind of persons make is unacceptable, but analize how this goups were born, grown and the way in that they run the organization, is interesting. For example their mimicry: but they are criminals.

The hotel Milagro serves breakfast

the little guard dog

my itineraty skips the capital

this girls are using the stop at the fuel station to make up their friend

this is a right place, is safety, because weapons are forbidden

a little diversion to can see the ocean: this country, from surfers point of view is a paradise

this should be one of the best beaches of El Salvador

ok now we are during the low season, but during the high season should be very crowed

again on the road, just stopping if something interesting appears

this tree had fallen down due the wind !!

This part of the road, along the ocean is amazing: sometimes the ocean appears to you after a turn

The natural park El Imposible is near the border with Guatemala: maybe I can sleep in the park and tomorrow afternoon cross the border. I've stopped at this crossroads to ask the direction to the park

I've got to find this road that bring to the park

Is very difficult find this road: my map is too little and everibody I've asked for direcion is giving to me different advice. At 1 pm I stopped for lunch. This guys invited me to sit at the table. Obviously me and my motorbike are intriguing and thay begin to ask me where I'm from: ahh ok Italy. After some normal questions one of them asks if is truth that italian womens are "Mas candela !" Italian is similar to spanish and I've studied spanish for 3 months, but I can't understand: what does it means candela ?

With an international gesture (is the last above in the right) I finally can translate Candela

Are italian womens very very hot in the bed ?
Ok now a little break is necessary. I don't think that in the world exist a human race (male or female) better than the other in the sexual activity. In my opinion it depends how much feeling you have with your partner, that can be tall, short, white yellow, orange etc...
When i was young I remember the wedding of a my friend. He was one of the first to get married. During the pre-ceremony cocktail (it has begun since 2 hours), we are speaking about sex ( age average about 23/24 years), sex position etc.. A guy a little bit older ( 28) suddendly tells " This is a little bit disgusting: my wife don't think and don't do this kind of depravity" . I was behind him and remember to had answered: " With you !" He become purple and had gone.

I tell to this guys, that I can't evaluate the passionate nature of the italian womans, but I can explain thei nature.
Typically the italian woman (or girl) is very strong and is the home chief. When an italian man finish to work and comes back home, has to play with childrens, bring out the garbage and the dog: if foodstuffs are necessary the man has to go to the market. The guys look at me as I'm speaking of a population from the space, but the woman that run the little restaurant smiles. The first guy says"Is impossible" "Come in Italy my friend and you'll see it" I answer.

After lunch I try again to find the road for El Imposible. For the umpteenth time I ask to the people. Finally an old man tells to me that the road is next to the right but he suggest to me to don't go to El Imposible. I ask why. He tells that the road is difficult even for a 4x4 car, the road is muddy and I'm travelling alone: a perfect target for pandillas. He tells that normally tourists go to the park with car and security. I remember how emty was the road to volcano Motombo in Nicaragua: it's better go on.
I'm very close to the border with Guatemala: this means I'll have more time, for example, to visit the lake Atitlan
El Salvador/Guatemala border

I arrive around 5 pm at Cinquimullilla: hotel San Carlos

momi20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2013, 01:40 PM   #41
momi20 OP
Gnarly Adventurer
momi20's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Modena-Italy
Oddometer: 222
Excuse me for the stop, but in this days I'm very busy with work

Friday June 7

I wake up and decide to let check the knee in Escuintla: it is still a little bit red and blubber.

hospital parking

I wait 10 minutes and when a door open ther's a woman, the doctor. In the same room ther's an old woman, with a problem in one arm. The doctor says that she's got to wait. Ther's still a little bit infection: what ? Since 9 days I've taken antibiotics. She asks to see all my prescriptions.
Her, in this picture ( I've taken in Mexico City) you can see all my prescriptions and drugs at the end of the vacation.

She explain to me the situation: first doctor in Guatemala has given antibiotics and painkiller, but in the drugstore the employee gave me just painkiller. Second doctor , the one that has removed stitches hasen't written antibiotics on the prescription. For 9 day I've taken a lot of drugs, but not antibiotics. No problem she says: now with this antibiotic i'll resolve the problem in fwe days. It was natural for me ask "Are you sure ?" She get up watching me in the eyes: "Yo soy cubana " (I'm from Cuba): you know that doctors of Cuba are probably the best in Central and South America and often are working abroad, as support.

Italy's mark

perfect place where let weld the stand of the bag

now begins the mountains zone near the Atilan lake

Suddendly the road disappears: a big fload has destroyed it

The slush is delicious, but kids have surronded me

low season means fog, but I was born in the Padan Plain and this fog is nothing for me

Finally I reach the lake and God has given to me a 30 minutes break from the rain: so it's possible relax, and get some food

This has been my route around the lake to can reach the panAmerican Highway

Again the rain, but this time I've stopped at a school: interesting because in the morning is a primary school and in the afternoon is a secondary school.

Huaoo no more rain..but even no more pave

at this pump the attendant write a map for me

again the rain, but now I'm on the Panamerican Highway

It's late and so I've stopped in Nahuala. Ther's just one motel, but without the parking. The entry is too much narrow and so isn't possible to bring the bike inside. The owner suggests to me to go to the fireman station and ask if they can keep the bike for the night. The firemen (bomberos) are very nice and not only keep the bike, but even me, because they've got a bed in a room with their equipments. All the firemen are volunteers and it was impossible for me give some money for the room.

for dinner this local Fried Chicken Restaurant is perfect

Saturday June 8

For some minutes I become a honorary firemen

breakfast in the market

I really don't know the name and what's is it, but everibody was eating it

I'd like at least reach the mexican border

today just 180 km (112 miles), but rain, mountains, wind (and a very second-rate driver) don't allow me to drive for more

again the fog

at 3 pm is necessasry a stop at this pulperia and I visit the home of the family that runs the shop

mom and daughter are cooking

this is the daughter: 19 years and a son two years old

after 60 km (37 miles) under the rain I reach the border. On the Guatemala side everything's fine...on the mexican side no. Immigration has been quick, but at the custom the official tells to me that I've got to wait: something's wrong in the motorbike documents. After two hours (I was beginning to conceive the Mexican prisons) it's finisch. The motorbike was bought in Texas and at the time Oscar made the import documents at the border and then had regulated the import at the office in Mexico City. The documents numbers are different from office and border, so the police noticed this difference.

Somebody has told to me that in a nearby motel a room costs 15 $. The owner watch my motorbike and asks 25$: go to the hell. I've driven till Tapachula and for 2 $ a taxi brings me to an Hospedaje ( a cheap hotel): 10 $ for the room

the main square

finally I find the shave soap

Sunday June 9

I've decided to reach Acapulco. In the middle ther's the city of Puerto Escondido. In Italy is a very famous place due this movie

breakfast in this road cafè

In Chiapas checkpoints are very common

at midday the sun is hitting me with a baseball bat. At this pulperia, the old man is happy to can say that he knows two famous italian actress: Gina Lollobrigida and Sophia Loren

Around 3 pm I met this bunch of mexican bikers. They are going to a motorcyclist meeting organized for charity to local population: some days ago an hurricane has damaged a lot of houses

momi20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2013, 07:01 AM   #42
blah blah blah
sandalscout's Avatar
Joined: May 2010
Location: Nashville, TN
Oddometer: 2,284
Awesome! Another momi report, love them!
sandalscout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2013, 09:01 PM   #43
Joined: May 2011
Location: Irving, TX- El Salvador
Oddometer: 22
Too bad that you stayed in El Salvador only for two days. There are some other nice roads and routes that you can take, and have scenic views too. The route that you took- El Litoral is very common for motorcyles, as it has a lot of curves, and goes next to the ocean. In fact, that is the route that I take with my friends whenever I'm in El Salvador and we go out for a ride and some birras!

Ride safe!
Meme is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2013, 05:08 AM   #44
momi20 OP
Gnarly Adventurer
momi20's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Modena-Italy
Oddometer: 222
Originally Posted by Meme View Post
Too bad that you stayed in El Salvador only for two days. There are some other nice roads and routes that you can take, and have scenic views too. The route that you took- El Litoral is very common for motorcyles, as it has a lot of curves, and goes next to the ocean. In fact, that is the route that I take with my friends whenever I'm in El Salvador and we go out for a ride and some birras!

Ride safe!
I had a lot of miles to drive to can come back in Mexico City...unfortunately. Really I think El Salvador is a place in that I should come back
momi20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2013, 05:22 PM   #45
3,2,1...Beer me!
Graniteone's Avatar
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Golden, Colorado
Oddometer: 466
Good stuff, thanks for sharing.
Graniteone is offline   Reply With Quote


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Times are GMT -7.   It's 11:36 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2015