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Old 09-08-2013, 11:18 AM   #10846
FriedDuck
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Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Oddometer: 427
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gustavo.Ramos View Post
Just noticed last night upon returning home from a long ride that the map switch of my 09 690R may not be working properly.

On paved road usually go with soft map (1), yet at a traffic light almost flipped myself and bike when setting off... the soft map is so weak you can almost pull wot and won't happen much.

A few test rides today and it is stuck in standard mode.

Already checked the switch, lubed it, verifyed continuity between cables, but no change on ECU. Connection to the harness is ok too, there is a little black plastic box with what should be a pcb but havent dig into that.

Anyway to pinpoint its operation, or anyone happened the same?
No but if memory serves if the switch is taken out completely (open circuit) it defaults to the standard map. Sounds like you have a break somewhere in the wiring to/from the switch

Jeff
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Old 09-08-2013, 11:57 AM   #10847
dirty_sanchez
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Louisiana, Baton Rouge
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Guys if you haven't already, grease those headset bearings. I took the front end off yesterday and couldn't believe the amount of grease )or lack of grease) they use on the triple clamp bearings.

The Austrians must have some sort of severe GREASE shortage going on. I've always heard bike mfg's are chincy on grease but never really took it to heart.

The bike is a '12 with about 4.5k miles on the odo, but there were already very faint signs of roller wear on the top and bottom race which are indicative of an improperly torqued steering stem. If you really don't want to take the whole front end off of the bike at the very least, lift the front end of of the ground, loosen that pinch bolt on the top triple and torque that big aluminum nut to 7.5 to 10ft/lbs. Torque the nut to seat those bearings again, then torque the pinch bolt to spec.

I did this to try and eliminate the easy stuff in an effort to calm down that headshake and front end nervousness from 75mph on up.

Be mindful of the top stem nut torque (7.5ft/lbs), the O-Ring that goes over the top cup, and the torque of the pinch bolt on the top triple.

Next up the swingarm linkage bearing re-grease.

Dirty
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dirty_sanchez screwed with this post 09-08-2013 at 12:05 PM
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:07 PM   #10848
Mr Head
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Location: Orange County, CA
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I did some shopping this weekend. Say that GP has a 2008 690 with safari tank and racks and looks like bag mounts, low res image.
$6957 for it.
Hmm.

Also came across a 2008 1098 S Duc.

Yeah, I'm in short attention mode when shopping.
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:32 PM   #10849
dad2bike
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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TJ and I have spent the last couple of days going over our bikes since the Fenner flood ride.

I installed spools and have a lift to make some work a bit easier.



The Ortleib bags are doing well.




I didn't like the master ground lug location as it was contacting my tank. So I flipped the cables to the inside of the frame away from the tank.



A known issue with these bikes is poor sealing of the air filter.
Here is a shot showing what I see is a sump in the airbox contact area.



Temporary fix to see if it works is some weatherstrip in the center of the cover. This is pushing the filter down into the sump resulting in strong contact.



If this works out then I will replace the weatherstrip with a bead of RTV to build up the center.


I also put my stock link back on again raising the bike up to stock height. Still searching for that optimum setup with my Fat Arse, short legs to get a smooth ride.

My replacement centerstand got installed as well.

Installed some Grab-On foam grips. I used hair spray to glue them on.
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:54 PM   #10850
DirtWarrior
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Location: San Jose, Ca.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeinMotorrad View Post
I think you should change your fuel filter and get a cacycleworks pump before you do anything else. If the filter was black before then your pump is slowly dying.

Typical engine map problems are: engine dying on deceleration, engine dying on no throttle when the clutch is pulled in, engine dying when you begin to apply throttle slowly (like when moving off from a standstill) or when blipping the throttle. Sometime these incidences can be accompanied by a backfire.

If you were rolling along with steady throttle and the just engine stopped running then it sounds like electrical or fuel pump.
Thanks,
I changed the fuel filter last month. I will replace the fuel pump and check the injector next weekend.

Nick
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Old 09-08-2013, 05:03 PM   #10851
MAXVERT
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Joined: Jan 2004
Location: Sun Valley Idaho, Baja Arizona
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What's Up with Rally Raid

I've had no luck contacting these guys lately.

I've been trying to get the parts to install a set of used Evo 1 tanks
for six months and have emailed Rally Raid several times with no
results.

Last week I tried to order up the fuel tank adapter plate and some other parts, again with no return order conformation.

Anyone know what is going on with them ?

I really need the tank adapter plate asap if anyone has one FS.
I'm leaving for a ride into Northern Mexico in a month and would like to
have the evo 1's mounted. I can fab up the other pieces needed to
mount the tanks but the adapter plate is beyond my skill set.

Max
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Old 09-08-2013, 06:05 PM   #10852
RoninMoto
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Location: In the mountains?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAXVERT View Post
I've had no luck contacting these guys lately.

I've been trying to get the parts to install a set of used Evo 1 tanks
for six months and have emailed Rally Raid several times with no
results.

Last week I tried to order up the fuel tank adapter plate and some other parts, again with no return order conformation.

Anyone know what is going on with them ?

I really need the tank adapter plate asap if anyone has one FS.
I'm leaving for a ride into Northern Mexico in a month and would like to
have the evo 1's mounted. I can fab up the other pieces needed to
mount the tanks but the adapter plate is beyond my skill set.

Max
They are usually decent about getting back. I know john is pretty heavily involved in the 450 lc4 build right now. You could try contacting ktmtwins and see if they have the parts you need.
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Old 09-08-2013, 07:58 PM   #10853
Monterey_BS
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Spools

Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
I installed spools and have a lift to make some work a bit easier.
I've been using M10X75 bolts that work well, but are not very tidy. I tried to move the spools from my Duke, but they don't fit. Where'd you get yours?
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:40 PM   #10854
Yellow Pig
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Rally Raid is at a rally.

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Old 09-09-2013, 01:48 AM   #10855
Gustavo.Ramos
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Location: Accross the pond
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FriedDuck View Post
No but if memory serves if the switch is taken out completely (open circuit) it defaults to the standard map. Sounds like you have a break somewhere in the wiring to/from the switch

Jeff
A dig into the small plastic black box is in the way then. Not very fond of electrics....
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Old 09-09-2013, 04:12 AM   #10856
dad2bike
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monterey_BS View Post
I've been using M10X75 bolts that work well, but are not very tidy. I tried to move the spools from my Duke, but they don't fit. Where'd you get yours?
I got a cheap set of 10mm ones at Cycle Gear. Then had to buy bolts at True Value hardware. KTM uses 10x1.50 bolts.

Sent from outside my mind.
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:45 AM   #10857
Biped
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Location: Oregon, Wet Side
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gustavo.Ramos View Post
A dig into the small plastic black box is in the way then. Not very fond of electrics....
This is not correct. An open circuit will result in the Bad Gas option for the ignition map. Settings 1, 2 and 3 are based on risistance values. Your switch may be broken. Disconnect the switch and use a meter to verify resistance changes for each postion before you break open the black box.
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Old 09-09-2013, 12:08 PM   #10858
Gustavo.Ramos
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Location: Accross the pond
Oddometer: 911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Biped View Post
This is not correct. An open circuit will result in the Bad Gas option for the ignition map. Settings 1, 2 and 3 are based on risistance values. Your switch may be broken. Disconnect the switch and use a meter to verify resistance changes for each postion before you break open the black box.
Hi Biped, bad gas option produces significant engine power? (never tried it before, so dunno). Engine feels quite good, i'd say like standard throttle response... or maybe gas around here is bad!

thanks
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Old 09-09-2013, 12:30 PM   #10859
Biped
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I have never run my bike on 0 setting for bad gas so no idea how it feels compared to stock map on 1, 2 or 3. i have been running a modified Beany map for a few years and have not touched the switch since then.
Best for you to test the switch with an Ohm meter to see if it is working, if so, check further down the line towards the ECU.
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Old 09-09-2013, 03:41 PM   #10860
palmstatecrawler
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Columbia, SC
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Ok now dont kill me here but I have a question about our suspension. Out of the box the suspension was so stiff that it rattled my brain on washboard roads. I dont do any large jumps. I put everything on the comfort setting and while it is a little better, it still feels too stiff. Problem is that now the rear shock bottoms out. I thought I needed a softer spring but now I have no idea. Does anyone have any issue like this? I thought the suspension was supposed to be a strong point on these.
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