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Old 12-17-2012, 08:17 PM   #286
JRWooden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebnelson View Post
I'm surprised I didn't see the GS911 CAN bus interface listed in toolkits. It will definitely be in my "toolkit" for next year's trips. Talk about removing some guess work! I wish I had a tool as useful as this for my Sprinter van (yeah, I know about the ScanTool II).
I have one and carry it with me on longer trips.
I have an old Thinkpad X61 with a solid state hard drive that does not care about being bounced around that is my road PC for e-mail and such ... I have the GS-911 software loaded and am ready. Many intermittent and frustrating faults will be logged in a way the 911 can give you some clues .... It will certainly not help in all situations, but since I own one, I always take it!
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:20 PM   #287
JRWooden
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Originally Posted by MikeMike View Post
I am building a bypass cable out of the old controller, if you do not buy the available cable from aftermarket that lets you connect to your battery, the pump goes on and off with the key. If you buy the bypass cable that goes to the battery you have to unplug it when you stop.
I'm with you MM - before my next trip I'll be building an adapter cable to go from the Gerbing plug I have at the front of my seat to the fuel pump ... will just unplug it when I stop...
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:47 AM   #288
ebnelson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMike View Post
Will the GS9-11 tool inform you of a duff fuel pump controller?
Mine went in a Mexican mountain town on Saturday, 250kms from home so I did the Tim Cullis bypass procedure and rode it back. The troubleshooting was easy, it was obvious it wasn't the clutch nor the sidestand as it would turn over but no smell of fuel.
Used the Leatherman in my tank bag to do the job.
You need a T-10 and patience, or just use the longnose of the pliers on the Leatherman.
I am building a bypass cable out of the old controller, if you do not buy the available cable from aftermarket that lets you connect to your battery, the pump goes on and off with the key. If you buy the bypass cable that goes to the battery you have to unplug it when you stop.
If you can afford it, a spare fuel pump controller is a good investment. But the bypass will get you back and if you roll your own cable you are going to be fine the next time it quits. I am going to zip tie the bypass cable I am making to a good spot under the seat and also a T-10 key with it, it will then be about a 90sec unplug and then plug and play.
Keep an old no good controller and gut it for the parts you need.
Glad to hear you were able to get running again. Your bypass cable seems like a good thing to put in an emergency spares kit. I would have expected a code of some sort to be generated from a faulty fuel pump controller, although it might not have been very informative. Certainly, on board micro-controllers do not replace mechanics. A prepared mechanic may want to use all tools available.
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Old 12-18-2012, 03:12 PM   #289
MikeMike
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This is the interesting thing, will the GS-911 give you the fuel pump controller fault code or will it leave you guessing?
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Old 12-18-2012, 05:37 PM   #290
JRWooden
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Originally Posted by MikeMike View Post
This is the interesting thing, will the GS-911 give you the fuel pump controller fault code or will it leave you guessing?
Good question ... for OBD compliant systems, the fault codes are somewhat standardized e.g. :

http://engine-codes.com/make/bmw

I've posted a question on the GS-911 asking if such a list exists for the bikes..................

Edit:

Got an answer quickly (for different model bike, but likely the same):

Error 10167 - Output stage to electric fuel pump

Symptoms: Idling irregular. Battles to start. Fault appears to start intermittently. Bike may start and ride, then will appear to have fuel starvation.

Repair: It is a little aluminum unit with fins on... (at fuel tank). Check the o-ring of this unit. Unscrew the unit and check for moisture in the cavity below it. Use moisture repellent spray and contact cleaner to clean this device.
If not corrected replace

This does seem to me to be something the computer can monitor to an extent.
If the computer tells the controller to throttle up or down and then sees that the pressure sensor on the fuel rail do something unexpected ... etc...

JRWooden screwed with this post 12-18-2012 at 06:05 PM
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:09 PM   #291
Full Power
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The 2013 model of F800 has a few changes:
The 800 fasteners are just about all Torx vs hex or Allenhead.

So to work on the bike you need the following:

left control housing... ?? smaller than T10 ?
T20 throttle assembly
T25 fairings, control, body work
T30 muffler mount, signals, motor chassis, rotor
T40 triple clamp, brake pivot, rear rotor, brake line
T45 body, exhaust mount, fork axle pinch bolts, controls
..... Bar Ends changed to T45

Torx socket
E10 handlebar clamps
E12 Front Caliper brakes

13mm Chain tension bolt AND lock nut, requires TWO 13mm spanners
17 mm Front Axle
24mm Rear axle
...... Drain plug is now 10mm Allen wrench
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Old 06-19-2013, 03:47 AM   #292
MikeMike
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I dont recall much hex nor allen on the old F8.
That list looks the same as for my F658 09 model.
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:58 PM   #293
txtallywhacker
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bag

where are yall finding those tool bags to velcro under the seat? i have searched high and low and cant find anything.
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:30 PM   #294
Pangia
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Talking E8 Torx / Gear Shift Lever

Quote:
Originally Posted by Full Power View Post
The 2013 model of F800 has a few changes:
The 800 fasteners are just about all Torx vs hex or Allenhead.

So to work on the bike you need the following:

left control housing... ?? smaller than T10 ?
T20 throttle assembly
T25 fairings, control, body work
T30 muffler mount, signals, motor chassis, rotor
T40 triple clamp, brake pivot, rear rotor, brake line
T45 body, exhaust mount, fork axle pinch bolts, controls
..... Bar Ends changed to T45

Torx socket
E10 handlebar clamps
E12 Front Caliper brakes

13mm Chain tension bolt AND lock nut, requires TWO 13mm spanners
17 mm Front Axle
24mm Rear axle
...... Drain plug is now 10mm Allen wrench
For the 2013 F800GS, I would suggest adding an E8 Torx Socket for the stock gear shift lever....that is what mine is...
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Old 09-13-2013, 03:11 PM   #295
moto74
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Left control housing is a T8.
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:26 PM   #296
AussieRidin
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Just checked over my Australian 2013 F800 GS and here are a few tool specs which I haven't seen mentioned, or seem to differ slightly from other posts:

  • T9 for left side indicator/horn control housing screws
  • 16mm socket or ring spanner for rear sprocket nuts
  • 21mm socket(s) for the swingarm pivot bolt & nut (ring spanner won't fit in there)
  • 24mm socket for rear axle (ring spanner wont fit in there properly but might work if that's all you've got)
Cheers.
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Old 02-23-2014, 02:16 PM   #297
Motoriley
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F800GS Toolkit needs

I can get a 24 mm wrench on the rear wheel with no issues. Motion pro makes a tire iron with a box end 24 that is nice. For a lot of the oddball sizes that you don't use regularly a pair of vice grips or an adjustable wrench will do in a pinch. The vice grips make a good emergency shift lever and a million other uses.
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Old 02-24-2014, 06:11 AM   #298
sturgeon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motoriley View Post
I can get a 24 mm wrench on the rear wheel with no issues. Motion pro makes a tire iron with a box end 24 that is nice.
+1 The MP tire iron/24mm works just fine; I've used it on the road numerous times.
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