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Old 09-03-2013, 01:46 PM   #151
chinchinete
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Thumb Grumpy in Santa Ana

Today, while visiting the triumph dealer in Costa Rica, I bumped into Grumpy. What a great guy!!!!! He even had time to lube my chain . Sadly, I did not know he was in the country beforehand and looking for a rear Heidenau, otherwise I would have offer some help. I'm looking forward to the second leg of the trip.
Anyway, nice to meet you: Good lucks and safe travels.
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Old 09-03-2013, 08:28 PM   #152
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Costa Rican Amigo !!

Great to meet you and I hope you enjoy my blog. Good luck in your own travels and if tou ever get to Great Britain, you know who to call. Grumpy
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Old 09-03-2013, 08:30 PM   #153
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Went down to breakfast and the only other person in there was an American talking to one of the owners so I sat with him. He now lives in Costa Rica and works in real estate and suggested Jaco, a beach resort which, he said, is on the way to Panama.


Before I went there I had to visit a Triumph dealer as the steering head boss had been loose for some time......maybe from the service by my good friend at South Bay Motors !! I had been communicating with Hermon, the owner, for a few days as I had been enquiring about tyres. Anyway, he got one of his guys to tighted it correctly and didn't charge me. Thank you. He has been down to Patagonia a couple of times and did warn me that there may be a lot of snow at the time I am planning on being there !!!! Deep joy !!


On the way out there was a guy with a similar American jacket as mine and we got talking. He is a really nice young Costa Rican Guy known as "Chincinete" on ADVRider and, as he has travelled up to and around the USA he asked my about my trip as he will travel all the way south, after he saves up, in a couple of years. he has an 800GS BMW and I should have taken a coule of pics but didn't. Sorry Amigo.


Afeer that headed off to Jaco and, at along line of traffic at a roadwork, a BMW GS1200 passed, sounded his horn, so I followed him. He was going past Jaco so he suggested he show me the way........at warp speed nine !!! Have I mentioned I may need new tyres ??????


He stopped for me to take a couple of pics at a river which would be interesting to swim in and we parked by a couple of Policemen who we asked to take a pic.


Arrived here at a sensible time, went for a walk, had a plate of Nachos with a few cocktails and the ground moved while walking back to the hotel !!!!! Raining with lightening and thunder.


Tomorrow ?????? Not sure !!

As usual, pics on link below.
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Old 09-05-2013, 08:14 PM   #154
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Received an e mail last night from Margaux & Olivier to say that they are only 45 miles away si I suggested we meet for breakfast. They had, however, already agreed to go to the national park with a couple of other travellers and, although I went to the park entrance, we were not able to meet up. Maybe Panama or Columbia. They were staying in Manuel Antonio which appears to be a really nice place (see pics of the beach) and if I had known I would have spent last night there. See the restaurant with a whole military plane in it.


From there I headed to a town close to the Panamanian border. I stopped for lunch and two young German girls in bikinis sat at the table beside me. Something large appeared to fall from the roof with a thud and the jumped away then used their phones to take pics. When I looked, it was a locust about 8 inches long......I never realised they were that big !! By the time I had my camera it had flown away.


When I arrived at the border town of Canoas it was chaos with no road signs, cars, trucks and people everywhere and trying to find a hotel, thank you GPS, I ended up in the line going into Panama with no chance of turning around. I had to explain to the soldiers I was loco and they let me do a U turn. While riding back I saw three other bikes Packed like mine. One was an Austrian who was just leaving Panama and had spent, I think, two years in South America with his girlfriend. They had just come off the Stahlratte, the boat I am taking to Columbia, and he was waiting for his Russian girlfriend who was dealing with the paperwork.She had been away a while and eventually he found out that she was being held and she hadn't a visa to enter Panama in the first place. He was still waiting when I left.


The other two bikes belonged to two Mexican guys who are booked on the Stahlratte with me and are headed in the same direction to Argentina. The three of them suggested I go across the border now instead of waiting til tomorrow. With the help of the Mexican guys I managed to complete all the paperwork in 1.5 hours......the fastest yet.


Once done we headed for the third largest city in Panama called....................David !! Half way there the black clouds overhead finally let loose and it rained really heavily so a good soaking by the time we arrived here. Will ride with the two guys tomorrow to Panama City and we board the bikes Monday and sail Tuesday to a new country and continent !!

As usual, pics on link below.
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Old 09-06-2013, 07:09 PM   #155
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Set off at 08-00 on a humid and cloudy day which was threatening rain from the start. Fair amount of traffic and one police checkpoint on the way but they were not a cheerful as most of the guys in other countries.


It did rain heavily after about 90 minutes and stopped after about 30. Stopped for late breakfast/early lunch at a small shack diner and had chicken roasted on a wood burner with rice and beans. Delicious, and only $3 for this and a Pepsi,


Joined Hector & Jonas then joined me on the road all the way to Panama City, however, the rain started again and, boy, did it rain ?? This is monsoon season and it wanted to show what it could do. About two hours of this and in the heavy traffic of the city. There were a couple of large tailbacks but we were able to get to the front each time by filtering, hard shoulder or just overtaking. One of the jams was caused by a large truck breaking down, halfway up a hill and at an angle. It looked like it had rolled downhill as there were large rocks shoved under the wheels.




WE hit the city in the rush hour, on a Friday and it had roadworks everywhere, and its is pouring, and the traffic is heavy, and everyone drives everywhere without indicating, and......................!!!



We all agreed that the overall driving in Panama is the worst we have seen....and that includes Mexico City !! Possibly not as bad as New York though !!!



H & J are meeting H's mother and sister at a nice hotel so I found a cheaper one close by.


My camera is now faulty and the screen on the back is dead. Shame it has been great so far but I will need a new one. More money and..........I have to find out how it works ! More high tech for me !!
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Old 09-08-2013, 10:18 PM   #156
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Woke up Saturday am to torrential rain so, after talking to Jayne on Skype packed the bike and headed for the Panama House Hostel, all the bikers sailing on the Stahlratte, were meeting at for ridind to the boat on Monday am. After a very confusing ride through heavy traffic and roadworks eventually rode about 8 miles to arrive at a place about 1-5 miles away.


Once here met Paul & Marlieke, a Dutch couple, who are riding around most of the world, and once checked in and changet into shorts went to the canal by busses. Interesting rides !!!!!

The canal is, obviously, world famous and rightly so. The shipe pay a minimum $100,000 to pass through and have to pay by cash or credit card....imagine !!! They have less than a metre either side and you will see in the pics, the trams either side attached to the ship by cable, ensuring they do not hit the sides. The cost appears expensive but it would cost the ship an extra two weeks to go round the cape and ten times as much.


Spent the evening eating a superb veg curry cooked by Marlieke with one or two beers.


Today went shopping with Paul as I needed a new camera (old one now working again but if I do not get a new one it will die and if I do spend the money buying a new one it willbe ok) and Paul needed new waterproof trousers.


Just before we left, Ginger the German arrived on his bike, the likes of which I have not seen on this trip. Some guys carry a spare tyre....he had four...and a top box to beat all top boxes !! Pics next time.


i was just about to put a load into the washing machine and had space so asked him if he wanted to put anything in. Next minute he appears in a towel and all his clothes goes in the machine !! Marlieke looked after the washing while we were away but I am a pair of undies missing..........Marlieke??????????


Once returned to the hostel we had agreed to meet the other bikers who were travelling on the boat with us. Paul & Marlieke the Dutchies, Ginger the German, kevin the Londoner, Dave the Grump then Eric arrived at the end whose girlfriend is following on the buses. Hector & Jonas the Mexicans will join us tomorrow. Many beers and Kevins bottle of rum evaporated very quickly and I believe the boat trip could be interesting.


I will probably not have Wi-Fi for a week (not sure about tomorrow) so there may not be an update 'til next weekend. Have fun and let me know if you are enjoying this.

Yours, pickeldly

Grumpy

As usual, pics on link below.

For those travelling this way, panama House Hostel
www.panamahousebb.com is a great place to stay.
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Old 09-09-2013, 11:08 PM   #157
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Dave,
I can't believe your're in Panama already. It seems like such a short time ago you were in Alberta. Even more unbelievable is that I'm in Tequila Mexico hot on your trail!

Have a fun Darien crossing

D
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Old 09-10-2013, 06:27 AM   #158
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Originally Posted by Exploron View Post
Enjoying your ride report and your perspective from abroad.
You mentioned that you were offered a "redneck" job in the oil fields. I believe the term is a "roughneck". Probably pays well, but is serious work.
Rednecks, on the other hand, are the good 'ole country boys in the small towns of America that chew tobacco, eat fried everything, live to hunt and fish, and listen to nothing but country music. Alot of us colonists are at least, part redneck.
Your statement is incorrect. Well partly incorrect. We also listen to Western music. That's why we call it Country AND Western. Carry on.
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:29 AM   #159
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Dave, as you will read, the Stahlratte trip is great but the paperwork process in Columbia has been grim so hope yours is better. Not sure if you read it but the Banjercito you need to get your refund is 60km north of the border on the northbound side of the road !!!! For some reason !!!!

See you soon ????????????????/

Dave
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:45 AM   #160
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9th Sept

Up early, had a bit of breakfast and waited for the other riders to arrive...and waited....and waited ! We had agreed 7am but it was approaching 7.45 when Jonas turned up and he had used a taxi to guide him. 10 mins later Kevin the Brit arrived and he had found Hector, the second Mexican, then lost him !! Eventually, Hector did arrive as did Eric, the Canadian & "Independent Traveller" so we set off in the rain.



Paul, Dutchie Part 1, had a GPS which showed the road (mine did not as it did not appear to be an official route) so he led. The traffic was grim but eventually we left the city and went through two very complicated toll booths for which some did not even have to pay but we caused traffic jams.


We turned off the main road and onto an incredible bendy road which rose and fell every 100 yards with gravel sections at the bottom of some of the dips. There were eight bikes but by the time we reached Kuna Indian land, for which we had to pay $13 to enter, we had lost three. We waited quite a while but they did not show so I backtracked to find them. Eric, the IT, did not want to wait so he carried on. After about three miles I came across them after they had stopped as some of Kevin's luggage had fallen off.


Eventually we arrived at the Caribbean Sea and parked on a small pier from where we would join the Stahlratte and start an amazing journey !!!!!!!!!!!!!


The Stahlratte


Ludwig, the German Captain, and some Kuna harnessed the bikes after we had removed the luggage....even Ginger's large "coffin". The luggage was taken to the ship in an inflatable and the bikes were winched onboard. Each owner watched his own bike dreading the worst but also with a feeling that this was "different" and taking pics to record the event. Once the bikes were safe we also boarded via the inflatable.


Bikes were strapped down, we took the luggage downstairs and claimed bunks knowing we would not sleep on the ship that night. Lunch was enjoyed on the top, open table and then we were taken to a Kuna island where we would spend the night. Once there, they took us to an uninhabited island (after negotiations to reduce to fee...led by Paul) and we enjoyed a few hours on our first Caribbean Island with good snorkelling.


We paid $25 to the Kuna to spend the night on their Island and my hut. which I shared with Ginger, had walls, most of a roof, two beds (just), no doors and a sea view. It had a full roof later. This was not a tourist place where the place is set up for them but a genuine village and only a few people from the Stahlratte stay. I never thought to bring a torch as, once the sun set, there were no lights.


We were fed with a nice meal (including fish and octopus), the kids put on a traditional dance playing Pan Pipes and after a few beers it was off to bed


I stated in my last post that my camera was faulty so I bought a new one. The old one started working again but it was not 100%, therefore, I used both and the pics will be a little out of sync.


10th Sept

Up and back on the boat at 09-00 for breakfast then sailed for acouple of hours to the further San Blas Islands where we anchored. On the way we encountered dolphins who swam alongside us then, when I was reading in the net at the bow of the ship, two dolphins were swimming below me for about 8 minutes...fascinating. A group of Germans joined us as they were visiting Panama & Columbia. We dived off the ship, used a swinging rope to "Tarzan" into the water and swam to two islands. I was the first to swim to the furthest and as I was about 40 feet away the water on the beach sort of erupted !! I therefore turned around (coward) picked up a snorkel and swam back. Coupld not see what has caused the splashing but the shoals of small fish were massive. Fish were very colourful and the starfish were the largest I have ever seen.


At about 16-00 we all went to the nearest island, a fire was started, and the crew (Neils (German), Salvador (Spanish) & Rebecca (French) cooked the evening meal while we all swam, snorkelled, read and slept. Once the meal was ready the beers were consumed and as the night went on the rum was opened. The group of all nationalities were great, all had a story to tell and, for me, it helped that the common language was English otherwise I would have been stuffed. It is embarrassing that all these people can speak a minimum of one extra language and usually more (very well) and we ( I ) are very limited.


In all many beers were consumed along with 9 bottles of rum and at about 2am the inflatable started to take people back to the ship. I chose to sleep on the island in a hammock and would have been the only one but Robert ( Brand new young doctor - German) also chose to sleep there but on a mattress. After checking the rest of the island we sat at the fire finished the small amount of rum and went to sleep.


11 Sept


It was the best nights sleep I had for ages. I awoke feeling the hot sun on my face, looked up and saw the beautiful face of Rebecca staring at me as she, and others had come to the island to clean up. I looked at my watch, it was 10-30 and I had missed breakfast !! Climbed out of the hammock, walked in the sea and swam to the ship. I did not feel too good and nor did too many others judging by their faces.


Spent the day swimming, reading, lying down in a dark place until it was suggested we go to a tiny island that we could see in the distance that looked like a cartoon island with two palm trees. There were coral reefs there and the snorkelling was amazing. If I was from North America I would have called it "awesome".


Dinner around the table again and a quiet evening......one small beer !! A very warm night in the bunk.


12 Sept
05-00 we upped anchor and set off for Columbia which would take 24 hours. As the ship is not large it moved more with the ocean than any ship I have been on including the Tall Ship of a couple of years ago. Therefore, I was not at my best so read and slept for most of the day as did most pf the passengers. No beer !!


13th Sept
First sight of Columbia and a new continent which differed to my expectation with the large number of skyscrapers. The passengers had to go to the immigration office, via inflatable & taxi, which was a large colonial building but, being Friday 13th, there was a "system problem" so passports could not be scanned. Return to ship !!


Ludwig had arranged for a new method of transporting the bikes to the dock by way of winching them onto a pontoon tied to a small motorboat which we then ride off over a small height difference. Again, we all watched out bikes on the ropes then sat on them while we floated to shore. Interesting !!

Once ashore we rode to the customs building where we sat for most of the day waiting for the shipping agent, a very jovial (not), large German (Manfred), who was also trying to sort the passports, tried to sort the bike paperwork for temporary import. Confused yet ?? As this was going to be a problem also we went back to the ship to get the panniers and all the luggage to taxis, via the inflatable, then to our hostel. We were soaked with sweat so I jumped in the shower. Meanwhile, the Dutchies arrived, their taxi driver tried to charge them double, they argued, the driver threw one of their panniers in the street, Paul hit the taxi with another pannier, police were called, police arrived......$50 fine !!!!!!! Friday the 13th !!! We also learded that motorcycles were banned in Cartagena today...but were were not going to get them anyway.


Passengers and crew met up in a square for drinks later in the evening where old movies were being projected on the side of the church. Large number of locals, visitors and food stalls (very nice) and a great atmosphere on a war evening.


14th Sept

Back to customs building at 09-30 and by 11-15 we had our documents and we had a mad ride through dense traffic to the insurance office before it closed at 12-00...........except it did not open on a Saturdays !!!! Not supposed to ride but some went to bike shops and Hector, Jonas & I went back to the customs as Jonas's bike would not start. Bump started that and returned to hostel. Pushing a bike in this heat is not nice !


So that is the story so far. Monday insurance and off to Medellin........but Cartagena in a very nice colonial city with old forts which I hope to see tomorrow.




Land ahoy, Capt'n !




Due to time and weak internet it is not always possible to get pics on here so 100 more on link below.
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:55 PM   #161
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On the road at about 8-15 and, with no city to get out of, we made good headway and the roads were good. Half the miles were covered by 11-00 so we stopped for breakfast/lunch in a small town where it was still hot and humid. As soon as we left there we started climbing, the road surface deteriorated and the number of large trucks appeared to increase but that could have been due to them moving slowly. Overtaking them was interesting/challenging/stupid.......take your pick...as it was usually on a hairpin bend. trucks often came around the bend heading for us on our side of the road !!!!!!!


There were a roadworks with long lines of stationary traffic whic had clearly been there for some time as bus drivers were asleep in the luggage area under the coach and truck drivers sitting around making coffee etc. we were able to ride straight past them to the front and even go through the zone while they were working.

As expected, the temperature and I was chilly for the first time in ages. It rained for about 15 mins on the down hill section but the views overall were stunning with little chance to stop and take pics. I, therefore took a few while riding with the old camera which was handy, hence they are mixed up a bit.


We entered Medellin, as usual, during rush hour, and once we fought our way through the traffic found our destination.......The Shamrock Inn....an Irish bar, owned by a Scot who owns a KTM and a Norton commando. This place is well known to bikers travelling through Columbia and the accommodation is reasonable with pictures of old triumphs in my room. Jonas & Hector are staying in a hostel a few doors away as they will be staying with a friend here for a week or so.


Had a couple of Fullers IPAs which I asked to be warmed up (Brits like their beer cool not cold) and they helped me sleep. A 71 year old Argentinian who lives in the US and is travelling by scooter joined us and I will pick his brains as he knows the roads south of here.


The Argentinian walked me to a few bike shops to find a new tyre which I eventually had fitted. He negotiated a cash discount and, although it does not have quite the aggressive grip of my existing tyre, it is a better road one. I will carry the old rear with me as it still has up to 3k left.


When I returned to the bar an Ozzy guy (Shane) we met last night said he would show me the way to the ski lift which go to the top of the mountain overlooking the city. I did not realise that is was mainly for the commuters who live up the sides of the mountain. The views are impressive and ride over the shanty area (which is huge) and incredibly busy. Shane works in Mauritania but comes here to see his Columbian girlfriend, who we met and returned to the bar for a few beers n food. Tomorrow, south !!!









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Old 09-20-2013, 04:29 PM   #162
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Originally Posted by davey1212 View Post
Not sure if you read it but the Banjercito you need to get your refund is 60km north of the border on the northbound side of the road !!!! For some reason !!!!

Dave
Dave do you mean leaving Mexico? I'm crossing at Chetumal/Belize so I don't think I;ll have the same issue

D
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:31 PM   #163
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No, it does not apply to you as far as I am aware. I thought you were going from Mexico to Guatemala. Your report is great, by the way !!
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:37 PM   #164
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After a quick breakfast with Armando I set off in warm sunshine with the expectation of getting half way to Cali due to the twisty mountain roads and truck traffic which would limit me. In the end I made it all the way as the second half of the trip was on level, good roads with some dual carriageways. On one mountain road, however, I was approaching a bend and a large silver car came around it, on my side with no room to manoeuvre. I could only move about two feet to my right and he tried to pull closer to the truck he was overtaking. I braced myself but, somehow, there was no contact. This played through my mind for a while afterwards and I cannot understand how I did not hit the side of his car. Not complaining, just counting my blessings !!!!


The weather was superb all day and the road conditions, apart from some gravel sections at roadworks, was very good. Scenery great on the mountain sections and lush & colourful in the afternoon.


Arrived in Cali at 16-00 but could not find the hostel I wanted so after 90 mins ended up in cheap hotel a bit hot a nd sweaty as, as we are close to the equator, they have great weather all year round. Despite its reputation, Columbia is a bikers paradise with fantastic roads everywhere and great people.






Tolls are free in Columbia for bikes and they all have these special lanes....Great !!


Tomorrow, closer to the border.
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Old 09-22-2013, 07:34 PM   #165
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Had breakfast in the hotel then survived the traffic in the town of Cali. Bikes and Taxis got straight through red lights, although some do look first, and it is ok to go down a one way street the wrong way as long as you have your hazard lights on !!! On all the roads there are, at times, double yellow lines along the centre which means you cannot overtake.......unless you want to ! One police car, later in the day, waved me on and told me to overtake him !!


Anyway, the weather was very warm and the roads overall ok. Was making reasonable time with about 110 miles to go when I gassed up then saw a Rider and BMW GS1200 fuelling up so approached him. Never found out what his name was but he was Columbian, spoke no English and, as he was so hot suggested a cold drink. Parked the bikes and we made ourselves understood. He has been all over Central & South America with flags to prove it. He asked me to stay at his house here in Pasto as his children speak English and he could show me the best parts of Argentina & Chile. OK, I said.


The road continued up the mountains and, as he knows the roads well, he set a very fast pace which was ok on the smooth tarmac but in the very rough sections he went ahead. I caught up with him acouple of times but then he went ahead and I never saw him again. The scenery though, was fantastic. Due to the mountain traffic and the bends etc it was dark when I arrived and could not switch on the GPS. That was the battery had fallen out on the rough roads while I was charging it. No GPS, no way of finding the Hostel I wanted even after riding around some very dodgy looking areas so found this hotel. I will have to try and get a battery here tomorrow, which will be difficult I think, or stay in a cheap hostel and wait for it to arrive from the US if I order it tomorrow. Or have it delivered to a hostel in Ecuador ????? Suggestions on a postcard.....!


Now with Grumpy sticker.



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