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Old 09-23-2013, 06:56 AM   #841
JetSpeed
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I wish I would have kept the instruction sheet after installing my BMW bars but I followed them to the letter and had no difficulties.
I would double check the settings dialed into the torque wrench and if that's correct then I'd either have it calibrated or toss it out, I highly doubt that the bolt was at fault.
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Old 09-23-2013, 09:58 AM   #842
nwpa
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Originally Posted by JetSpeed View Post
I wish I would have kept the instruction sheet after installing my BMW bars but I followed them to the letter and had no difficulties.
I would double check the settings dialed into the torque wrench and if that's correct then I'd either have it calibrated or toss it out, I highly doubt that the bolt was at fault.
The HB bars I got came with replacement screws. Not sure if they were graded differently, but HB did send new screws with the kit.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:18 AM   #843
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HB is good stuff and my first choice if they had made the bars in stainless.

I read over the HB instructions and they do include replacement Allen head bolts that are M10x40mm (plus a washer) which is 5mm shorter that the stock M10x45mm Torx head fasteners they replace which sounds a little odd to me, they also don't list torque specs for any of the fasteners.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:58 AM   #844
Hambonee
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Originally Posted by alaninsea View Post
Got me GSW yesterday. Bought the OEM engine guards. Have to remove one of the frame bolt on each side and reuse the bolt to install.

Specs said to torque to 55 Nm. Went in smoothly by hand so I know it wasn't cross threaded. Went to torque it to 55 Nm - had a weird feel to the bolt and snapped it (stretched the bolt).

No bolts available in the US. Having to ship one from Germany. Hopefully the rest of the frame bolts are not defective.

Just a minor setback for now
I installed the BMW crash bars and I seem to remember two torque specs. 14Nm for the small bolts and 41Nm for the big one. 55 sounds WAY off....

I will check the instructions tonight but that sounds way wrong...
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:46 PM   #845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hambonee View Post
I installed the BMW crash bars and I seem to remember two torque specs. 14Nm for the small bolts and 41Nm for the big one. 55 sounds WAY off....

I will check the instructions tonight but that sounds way wrong...
I remember the 55 figure...
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:49 PM   #846
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If I interpret the text correctly, 55 appears to be right.

Main frame to engine
top front, M12 x 255 - 10.9
Thread-locking compound (Micro-encapsulated)
or, Thread-locking compound (Loctite 243, Medium strength)
100 Nm
bottom rear, M10 x 45
55 Nm
bottom front, M10 x 45
55 Nm
top rear, M12 x 210
Thread-locking compound (Micro-encapsulated)
or, Thread-locking compound (Loctite 243, Medium strength)
100 Nm
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:55 PM   #847
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ok..maybe I am remembering torque specs for some other farkle..very well could be..I'm getting old
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Old 09-23-2013, 10:41 PM   #848
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The 19 NM was for the front M8 -- my bad.

I looked again at the H-B specs. H-B has you torque their front to 25 Nm (not 19) and their rear to 40 Nm.
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Old 09-23-2013, 10:55 PM   #849
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From the instructions:

Securing left crash bar

- Spacers (engine protection bar) to frame: M8 x 20 19 Nm
- Tighten screw - M8 x 30 19 Nm
- Tighten screw - M8 x 35 19 Nm
- Tighten screw - M10 x 45 55 Nm

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Old 09-23-2013, 11:03 PM   #850
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My bike went in again. Initially I had been blaming the banging and clattering on the ESA (because it makes all sorts of noises if you have it set to pillion when riding solo).

One day my bike was parked on the street. My wife was outside with my daughter asleep in the pram so I decided to push the bike back out the way so the noise didn't wake her up. When doing so there was a hell of a knocking sound coming from somewhere below peg level

I had never heard this noise when not riding the bike and it only happened intermittently but pushing it back it happened constantly


I took the bike in to the garage and they identified it as a joint being underlubricated in the shaft drive. Two hundred miles later and I've not heard the knocking again :)
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Old 09-24-2013, 06:41 AM   #851
mefly2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alaninsea View Post
Thanks. Got everything I needed at Home Depot. Extraction only took a few minutes. Temorary bolt went right in. Will replace the bolt as it ships in from Germany.
Glad that you got it sorted ... torque wrenches are a blessing for proper maintenance. Perhaps it had been over torqued at the factory and separated when you went to re-use it. Sometimes the locking agent increases torques considerably for extraction as well.
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Old 09-24-2013, 06:49 AM   #852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangerous hamster View Post
My bike went in again. Initially I had been blaming the banging and clattering on the ESA (because it makes all sorts of noises if you have it set to pillion when riding solo).

One day my bike was parked on the street. My wife was outside with my daughter asleep in the pram so I decided to push the bike back out the way so the noise didn't wake her up. When doing so there was a hell of a knocking sound coming from somewhere below peg level

I had never heard this noise when not riding the bike and it only happened intermittently but pushing it back it happened constantly


I took the bike in to the garage and they identified it as a joint being underlubricated in the shaft drive. Two hundred miles later and I've not heard the knocking again :)
Was anything done for the problem??? Thought those U-joints were sealed bearings.....
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:50 AM   #853
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The dealer said an under lubricated joint which they lubricated. Tbh I didn't question it. The knocking has gone now though :)
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Old 09-25-2013, 01:57 AM   #854
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I wonder if someone has experienced this, or I'm doing something wrong:

I have the oem GPS mount with BMW navigator. I had the cover in place for a few weeks because I don't need the gps often. I needed to remove it a few days ago but for some reason, the little lever at the top right that need to be pushed in refused to budge whatever direction I was trying. I managed to remove the cover by bending it slightly, and I could see that pushing the lever inwards got the 2 small tabs to move up slightly but not enough.

I put in the gps but obviously now, I can't get it off ... Any idea what I'm doing wrong? It's a problem whatever position the key lock is in.
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Old 09-25-2013, 04:12 AM   #855
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Originally Posted by monoi View Post
I wonder if someone has experienced this, or I'm doing something wrong:

I have the oem GPS mount with BMW navigator. I had the cover in place for a few weeks because I don't need the gps often. I needed to remove it a few days ago but for some reason, the little lever at the top right that need to be pushed in refused to budge whatever direction I was trying. I managed to remove the cover by bending it slightly, and I could see that pushing the lever inwards got the 2 small tabs to move up slightly but not enough.

I put in the gps but obviously now, I can't get it off ... Any idea what I'm doing wrong? It's a problem whatever position the key lock is in.

The key allows the second locking tab to be disengaged, but it doesn't actually disengage it.

Once you turn the key there is a sliding tab on the back, on the left (facing the front of the bike). Unlock the key, then slide that tab to the left to allow the spring loaded latch to disengage on the right.
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