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Old 09-23-2013, 07:03 PM   #16
Motorrev
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Great to see you on the road again Tiffany. Have fun and be careful.
Bob
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Old 09-23-2013, 07:12 PM   #17
yamalama
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living the life.
nice.
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:07 AM   #18
RobBD
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:25 AM   #19
rootsy
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excellent destination! I'm looking forward to following your journey. please keep the vivid images and the tales of your culinary conquests coming! safe travels.
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:30 AM   #20
Ravenslair
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Cannot wait to read more!
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:37 PM   #21
Dr LC8
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So which direction are you going? I have done the south. I have few place I would advice you should see...

Nic
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:57 AM   #22
Tiffany OP
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Location: Lands End, England (sometimes)
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Laugh are you saying I'm short?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheReaper! View Post
Looks like you need a ladder to get on this thing . TheReaper!



I'm used to having to stretch to reach the ground, apparently the secret is to never stop!
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Old 09-28-2013, 05:01 AM   #23
Tiffany OP
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The south

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr LC8 View Post
So which direction are you going? I have done the south. I have few place I would advice you should see...

Nic
yes please Nic.

Funny because when I told the guys in the Bike Shop I wanted to explore as much as possible, they said don't got to the south, it's not safe there anymore as people are getting killed (some random stuff about army and zebu- the African cattle- and whatever) anyway, I pointed out that if it's blokes they're unlikely to see me as a threat- a solo woman on her motorbike- and so I'm going there anyway.

back to updating
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Old 09-28-2013, 05:51 AM   #24
Tiffany OP
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Eek Getting Dusty

The next morning, the view from my window looked something like this...



A typical African scene.
I was on the shores of Lake Itasy, which is rumoured to have crocodiles in it, but this was the closest I got to seeing one



A photo in the hotel reception.

I headed off to find some local waterfalls, and was directed along a small track which got increasingly narrow and full of fesh fesh (bulldust).
I had assumed I was on the route that the bush taxis take, but there's no way that anything with four wheels used this track - and I'm sorry but I was having such a hard time riding that I didn't take any pictures at this stage. I had a couple of river crossings and then I was told I was heading the wrong way and had to go back again!
I found more people AND a proper bridge, I MUST be on the right track now



I finally got to the waterfalls, very dusty and sweaty



but still able to smile

It was like being at a smaller version of Victoria Falls, much smaller



I zoomed in with my camera at the white blob at the top to see this



A couple of ducks that looked like they're contemplating diving in!!

And yes, as I turned to go, here were the bush taxis arriving on the good road



I just had to try and follow this road out.

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Old 09-28-2013, 06:02 AM   #25
Tiffany OP
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Cool2 After the Dust

I did come face to face with a crocodile


Luckily it was just in a bar, where I was having a well-earned cold .

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Old 09-28-2013, 06:26 AM   #26
Tiffany OP
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Cool2 Bike Swap Time

Through couchsurfing.com, I'd been in touch with an American Peace Corps worker and went to visit her
Sarah is very blonde and from Michigan - two major contrasts to being in Madagascar



She's been out here for 18 months and had a lot of good information to share and advice to give. We had lunch at a market restaurant and she introduced me to the drink rano'apango - boiled burnt rice water. Which although it smelt pretty bad, it tasted alright, like a strong roibusch (redbush) tea from South Africa.

I managed to run out of fuel- schoolgirl error, I hadn't realised that the bike had been handed over with the reserve switched on. This meant I had a bit of a delay, when I pushed the bike to the nearest village and paid someone to cycle the 6kms to the next fuel stop and bring back a coke bottle of petrol. So I was unable to get to my destination that night- because there's no way I'm riding in the dark over here. I was a bit stuck for accommodation options, the only place in the small town had red light bulbs and also rented by the hour!!

However the owner was very nice and assured me I would be safe there rather than out on the road with the animals and the brigands!

As I rode in through the gates, I saw what looked like a familiar sight-




a van identical to one I had travelled through the 'Stans with a few years ago.


the next morning (after a very peaceful night's sleep) the owner of the establishment and his wife posed for a picture



I made it back to Tana, and stayed at the house of a friend of the bike shop owner (long story)
The house was full of Enduro trophies



And the only reading material were motocross and Enduro magazines...in French naturally.


Dinner that night was provided at the house by a couple of well...reprobates is the only word to describe them, they're originally from Reunion Island and have ended up in Madagasacar. They washed it down with lots of rum, which I managed to decline.



It was back to the bike shop in the morning, to give back the 250cc and pick up the DR 350.
And time to pack it

Here I am attempting to fill the Coyote Saddle Bag



And here is what I put in it



Time to head north



for some adventures,

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Old 09-28-2013, 02:58 PM   #27
sion
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiffany View Post
And here is what I put in it


M&Ms...a definite trail essential
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Old 09-28-2013, 08:42 PM   #28
fabriktr
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Subscribed. Lets ride!
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Old 09-29-2013, 03:21 AM   #29
Dr LC8
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Hi,

Lara and I went down south reaching Morondava first and Toliara after. We were a girl and a boy on two bikes. We never ever had the impression to be in an unsafe place or to be in danger. In one occasion we also ride for over two hours in the dark between Antsirabe and Ambositra to reach the the destination.

Obviously it is a very very rural conuntry with no facilities outside big or busy towns. There is no electricity outside big towns and people tend to drink a lot. It is very easy to find drunk man hanging around at night.
I guess you only need to plan ahead the night before which will be your next destination knowing that there won't be any intermidiate stop. Make sure you can make it and don't forget that there are stretch of 300km without petrol stations.

Madagascar is a beautiful country.

Don't miss the fishing village on the coast around Morondava. Isalo Park it is unbeliaveble beautiful. It looks like a T-Rex will suddently appear from behind the mountain. On the opposite just a day riding away Ranomafana Park is a tropical jungle! Fantastic.

Enjoy!















Nic
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Old 09-29-2013, 03:43 AM   #30
Thom_worldwide
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ADV contact in Antananarivo

Hi Tiffany,

I am not sure where you are on your trip – posting as you go or posting after the fact – but my family and I live in Antananarivo and I have ridden the whole west coast from Mahajanga to Tulear.


Baobabs


Sand


Streams


Rivers


Mud

Weekend rides are north and east of ‘Tana.





Paulo and the guys at Motostore were reasonable in recommending that you be cautious in the south. It is remote and a little troubled, but beautiful. PM me and let me know when you are back in Tana. We are about 5 minutes from the Motostore.

Cheers,

Thom

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