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Old 08-13-2013, 11:57 AM   #16
spencergt66
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You can use the 990 in a 950 been done quite a few times on here. Just switch the ignition PU use all the 950 parts everything else bolts up and or is the same duke engines have different tranny but u can use your old tranny if the price is right
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:49 PM   #17
Themastermike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DELTATANGO View Post
I think I'll keep looking for a 950 engine or rebuild this one.
I'm thinking now of a total rebuild.

What are the details on the motor. I think the parts. Bill on it would get high quick. Crash bike motor and put your carbs on. My opinion only.n. keep us posted
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:26 PM   #18
Orangecicle
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I rebuilt the top end of my 950 (top end only) due to an odd water/oil exchange that was going on. I have an idea of what it take to rebuild part of your motor:
  • Cams on the early 950 are notorious for going bad, and the solution is 990 cams ($450 minimum),
  • then you need the cam chains, guides, tensioners, and gaskets ($400 minimum),
  • if you broke a cam chain and shoved a valve into a piston ($ {bend over} ),
  • then you need to remove the engine and reinstall it ($ {price of your free labor in addition to the cost of ambulance ride to the hospital after throwing out your back}),
  • then you need the shop time cost for the tools you'll need to break down the engine and get stubborn things like the flywheel off ($ {price of either every KTM "special tool" in the book or the hourly rate of your friendly KTM mechanic}), and
  • of course you are going to have the ancillary issues of other new parts along the way. ($ {FML}).


I wanted to preserve my 950 because . . . well, I'm anal. A normal person would have found a 990 and dropped it in by changing out a couple of parts.
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Orangecicle screwed with this post 08-14-2013 at 04:56 AM
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Old 08-15-2013, 05:46 PM   #19
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I picked it up today. I bought it from Mark, an inmate here, nice guy.

The motor isn't grenaded like I expected. Mark drove it in the shop on one cylinder. The offending piston doesn't have a mark on it except for a crack along he skirt. It's the rear cylinder so the mechanic had to loosen the engine to get it apart. So the motor is nearly off.

I was thinking initially that I would just fix the engine as it is but after I've thought more about it I'm thinking I should fix it more.

What should I do? The mechanic suggested buying a $4700 crate engine. I don't thing so. I don't think.

PS Tkx Orangecide.

PPS The engine has 62k on it.
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:02 PM   #20
Orangecicle
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Originally Posted by DELTATANGO View Post
I picked it up today. I bought it from Mark, an inmate here, nice guy.

The motor isn't grenaded like I expected. Mark drove it in the shop on one cylinder. The offending piston doesn't have a mark on it except for a crack along he skirt. It's the rear cylinder so the mechanic had to loosen the engine to get it apart. So the motor is nearly off.

I was thinking initially that I would just fix the engine as it is but after I've thought more about it I'm thinking I should fix it more.

What should I do? The mechanic suggested buying a $4700 crate engine. I don't thing so. I don't think.

PS Tkx Orangecide.

PPS The engine has 62k on it.
Read Pyndon's thread: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147440

He documents a high-mileage rebuild on his engine. No major internal concerns -- just typical wear. At 62K, you will need new cam chains, new chain guides, probably new cam chain tensioners, new rings wouldn't be a bad idea, new valve seals, and other basics. Surface the heads when you put them back on. If that damaged piston damaged the nikasil on the cylinder wall, you need a new cylinder for that jug. Nothing too major. But, you will spend $2,000 even doing a lot of the work yourself.

Also check out this thread: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=633576

which documents a "non-rebuild" on a bike with more than 89K on it. The new owner basically fixed a wiring problem . . . and rode it.
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:24 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangecicle View Post
Read Pyndon's thread: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147440

He documents a high-mileage rebuild on his engine. No major internal concerns -- just typical wear. At 62K, you will need new cam chains, new chain guides, probably new cam chain tensioners, new rings wouldn't be a bad idea, new valve seals, and other basics. Surface the heads when you put them back on. If that damaged piston damaged the nikasil on the cylinder wall, you need a new cylinder for that jug. Nothing too major. But, you will spend $2,000 even doing a lot of the work yourself.

Also check out this thread: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=633576

which documents a "non-rebuild" on a bike with more than 89K on it. The new owner basically fixed a wiring problem . . . and rode it.
I've never worked on a KTM before. It looks like a disassembled robot. The are so many parts. I guess I can do it but SHITE.

The cylinder has some vertical scratches. The mechanic said the compressing was 50/90. So I'm just going to fix it.
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:47 PM   #22
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I'm going to rebuild it myself.

Can I ask a couple of questions from the gurus here?

Is there a shop manual online? I clicked on the link but it didn't work.
Can the cylinders be bored and oversized?
Where is the best place to buy parts?
Who do you all get to do your heads done?

Thanks,
Tom
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:35 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DELTATANGO View Post
Can I ask a couple of questions from the gurus here?

Is there a shop manual online? I clicked on the link but it didn't work.
Can the cylinders be bored and oversized?
Where is the best place to buy parts?
Who do you all get to do your heads done?

Thanks,
Tom
OK, not the shop guru, but:

1. Is there a free manual?

No. Buy the CD from your dealer or on-line.

2. Can the cylinders be bored or oversized?

No. Don't try. The cylinders have nikasil coatings that are either OK or . . . buy new cylinders. If you need a new cylinder, there's a guy in Orange Crush who just switched out his 950 for a 990SD replacement. Find that guy!

3. Best place to buy parts.

That depends. I like to shop online and buy locally. My local dealer will usually do what they can to match on-line pricing. Or, just buy locally and pay full fare. You need a local shop that can help you. I generally pay local prices if they are somewhat close to online prices because I like the local guys and they do A LOT to help me out. Build a relationship if you can. My local shop is only a KTM dirtbike shop. But the guys are awesome, and the knowledge they have about single-cylinder KTMs translates easily into the V-twin KTMs.

4. Head work.

Head work on the KTM is usually simple. Of course, mileage on the motor may drive a different conclusion, but my motor with about 34K on it just needed a valve lapping, new valve seals, and a very minor surfacing to clean up the aluminum so that it would cleanly accept the new head gasket. It's a much bigger issue if you need the valve guides changed out. My heads were fine in this respect.

Valve lapping is a very simple process of just using a tool and some lapping material to resurface each valve to its mating surface in the head. Easily done with a little work.

Valve seals come off with needle-nose pliers and go back on with an appropriate-sized socket. Very easy.

The heads just need a very minor touching to clean them. We did that at my local motorcycle shop just using an old marble block on which was mounted a sheet of wet sandpaper. You just have to clean the surfaces so that you have a nice smooth surface to work with for the new gasket, and you are good to go. Nothing more. Very simple.
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:45 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Orangecicle View Post
OK, not the shop guru, but:

1. Is there a free manual?

No. Buy the CD from your dealer or on-line.

2. Can the cylinders be bored or oversized?

No. Don't try. The cylinders have nikasil coatings that are either OK or . . . buy new cylinders. If you need a new cylinder, there's a guy in Orange Crush who just switched out his 950 for a 990SD replacement. Find that guy!

3. Best place to buy parts.

That depends. I like to shop online and buy locally. My local dealer will usually do what they can to match on-line pricing. Or, just buy locally and pay full fare. You need a local shop that can help you. I generally pay local prices if they are somewhat close to online prices because I like the local guys and they do A LOT to help me out. Build a relationship if you can. My local shop is only a KTM dirtbike shop. But the guys are awesome, and the knowledge they have about single-cylinder KTMs translates easily into the V-twin KTMs.

4. Head work.

Head work on the KTM is usually simple. Of course, mileage on the motor may drive a different conclusion, but my motor with about 34K on it just needed a valve lapping, new valve seals, and a very minor surfacing to clean up the aluminum so that it would cleanly accept the new head gasket. It's a much bigger issue if you need the valve guides changed out. My heads were fine in this respect.

Valve lapping is a very simple process of just using a tool and some lapping material to resurface each valve to its mating surface in the head. Easily done with a little work.

Valve seals come off with needle-nose pliers and go back on with an appropriate-sized socket. Very easy.

The heads just need a very minor touching to clean them. We did that at my local motorcycle shop just using an old marble block on which was mounted a sheet of wet sandpaper. You just have to clean the surfaces so that you have a nice smooth surface to work with for the new gasket, and you are good to go. Nothing more. Very simple.
OK Thanks a lot.

I need at least one cylinder and one piston. Plus cam chains tensioners, guides, maybe cams, shit this is going to add up fast and I'll still have a 60k bottom end. I'm going to do some more thinking/looking.
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:48 PM   #25
Orangecicle
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And one last comment. There is no greater feeling than exploring the world on something you built with your own hands.

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Old 08-29-2013, 01:26 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangecicle View Post
OK, not the shop guru, but:

1. Is there a free manual?

No. Buy the CD from your dealer or on-line.

2. Can the cylinders be bored or oversized?

No. Don't try. The cylinders have nikasil coatings that are either OK or . . . buy new cylinders. If you need a new cylinder, there's a guy in Orange Crush who just switched out his 950 for a 990SD replacement. Find that guy!


3. Best place to buy parts.

That depends. I like to shop online and buy locally. My local dealer will usually do what they can to match on-line pricing. Or, just buy locally and pay full fare. You need a local shop that can help you. I generally pay local prices if they are somewhat close to online prices because I like the local guys and they do A LOT to help me out. Build a relationship if you can. My local shop is only a KTM dirtbike shop. But the guys are awesome, and the knowledge they have about single-cylinder KTMs translates easily into the V-twin KTMs.

4. Head work.

Head work on the KTM is usually simple. Of course, mileage on the motor may drive a different conclusion, but my motor with about 34K on it just needed a valve lapping, new valve seals, and a very minor surfacing to clean up the aluminum so that it would cleanly accept the new head gasket. It's a much bigger issue if you need the valve guides changed out. My heads were fine in this respect.

Valve lapping is a very simple process of just using a tool and some lapping material to resurface each valve to its mating surface in the head. Easily done with a little work.

Valve seals come off with needle-nose pliers and go back on with an appropriate-sized socket. Very easy.

The heads just need a very minor touching to clean them. We did that at my local motorcycle shop just using an old marble block on which was mounted a sheet of wet sandpaper. You just have to clean the surfaces so that you have a nice smooth surface to work with for the new gasket, and you are good to go. Nothing more. Very simple.
Nikasil can be removed and recoated, or is the nikasil not the reason to throw the cilinders away? (just curious)

I have had nikasil clinders welded and bored and then recoated.
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Old 08-29-2013, 05:41 AM   #27
Orangecicle
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Originally Posted by DELTATANGO View Post
OK Thanks a lot.

I need at least one cylinder and one piston. Plus cam chains tensioners, guides, maybe cams, shit this is going to add up fast and I'll still have a 60k bottom end. I'm going to do some more thinking/looking.
You can price out a rough estimate at Cheap Cycle Parts. There is a gasket kit for the top end that will give you most of the gaskets you need.

With the parts you need . . . I would guess that you would spend at least $1,500 if you can find the piston and cylinder used. Realistically, you'll probably be in the $2K range. Good used 990 motors can be found for about the same money - maybe just a little more. There is very little that you have to do to a 990 motor to drop it in place of a 950 and make it work fine with carbs.

Here's a link to a guy facing similar problems who decided to swap his 950 motor for a 990SD motor. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=912839 Read that link, and you'll have info on a guy who has some 950 parts he's not using as well as some info on making the 950/990 swap. Note that 990SD motors have different gearing designed for "sport" riding, but that guy seemed to like it. YMMV
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Old 08-29-2013, 05:54 AM   #28
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Don't know if its still there or not, but there was a 950 engine that had worn cam chain tensioners/stretched chains (I think) for $500 plus shipping in the Fleamarket section. You could probably use parts from both to make 1 good one.....?

Jon
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Old 09-25-2013, 02:07 PM   #29
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Hey Ya'll,

I'm in the process of swapping the 990 engine into my 950.

I have to change the pickup ring right? I have to put in the 950 ring since it will be carbureted.

Thanks,
To
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Old 10-04-2013, 08:40 AM   #30
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Triigger Wheel Swap

Man the nut on the clutch is tough. Is it reverse threads?
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