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Old 07-16-2013, 09:14 AM   #31
chasbmw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOGBRETH View Post
I have not read the whole thread in depth. I have done this job only on a R100R.

With the above in mind, I can tell you that I used the "pull-the-engine-forward" method twice - nightmare.

On the advice of Anton, I left the engine in place and the job was much easier.
Mind you, removing the front engine stud and greasing it so it does not carrode into the block should be on everyone's 5 year service list! Especially if you live in a wet climate.
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Old 07-16-2013, 09:18 AM   #32
Rob Farmer
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Originally Posted by darklight79 View Post
Theres a guy in uk claims 15 mins to pull trans requires pulling a trans stud remove swing bolts push swing back leave wheel on trans back a lil then sideways dont move the engine
Is that Jim?
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Old 09-28-2013, 10:13 AM   #33
brocktoon OP
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Quote:
Theres a guy in uk claims 15 mins to pull trans requires pulling a trans stud remove swing bolts push swing back leave wheel on trans back a lil then sideways dont move the engine
So now that I've dealt with my wiring harness meltdown, I'm finally getting around to pulling the gearbox and trying a light coat of sealant on the gasket to prevent further leaking.

I got the swingarm removed, airbox off, battery holders off (this is a /5) and am pulling the swingarm back but can't seem to get the clearance needed. Is there something else I should be removing? Shocks? Clutch arm?

If any NorCal airheads around Santa Rosa see this, beers on me if you show me how to do it.
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Old 09-28-2013, 10:20 AM   #34
Plaka
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Originally Posted by brocktoon View Post
So now that I've dealt with my wiring harness meltdown, I'm finally getting around to pulling the gearbox and trying a light coat of sealant on the gasket to prevent further leaking.

I got the swingarm removed, airbox off, battery holders off (this is a /5) and am pulling the swingarm back but can't seem to get the clearance needed. Is there something else I should be removing? Shocks? Clutch arm?

If any NorCal airheads around Santa Rosa see this, beers on me if you show me how to do it.
????

The swingarm is removed? Then the shocks are removed too.

I usually pull the swing arm pivots and the 4 subframe bolts, wheel on. Then move the the entire swingarm+tranny+subframe et. al back. That's for spline lube.. Unbolt tranny at swing arm to take it out.

Remove Neutral switch wire from switch.

Yes, remove clutch lever. You don't wanna bang it. When handling tranny, watch out for the clutch cable eye. Easy to bang that and break it.
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Old 09-28-2013, 10:31 AM   #35
Kai Ju
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I've never pulled the subframe since I need the rear fender to loop the tie strap around that holds the wheel/swingarm back to give me clearance to pull the transmission. I do like the 2x2 approach as well, may have to try that next time, thanks for the tip. Would love to see a pic of that. I can mock mine up to show the strap method in return.
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Old 09-28-2013, 11:01 AM   #36
batoutoflahonda
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When putting the swing arm on/off, I set a cinder block on end to support the final drive (G/S). The cut out on the block holds the drive very well, and lines the shaft up perfectly. Helps free up your hands & the screws go almost all the way in by hand. Also, a cotter pin puller helps to get the boot back on. The bend in those things is the trick.
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Old 09-28-2013, 11:39 AM   #37
RayB
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Before you get too involved, make sure the shifter seal isn't leaking. Oil can migrate back to the spot you indicated. Simple checks first.
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Old 09-29-2013, 04:07 PM   #38
Cogswell
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Originally Posted by RayB View Post
Before you get too involved, make sure the shifter seal isn't leaking. Oil can migrate back to the spot you indicated. Simple checks first.
Check the neutral switch too.


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The good thing is, your damn motor can't read. If it says oil on the container, it's pretty much OK to dump in there.... ED.
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Old 09-30-2013, 02:41 PM   #39
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Thanks for the recommendations regarding other places to check for the leak. I had already done the foot powder test to check for the leak source. It was coming from the bottom where the cover meets the case.

I got the transmission out, cleaned the mating surfaces and the output shaft thoroughly with solvent (although the output shaft nut was torqued to spec, the output shaft flange required alarmingly little effort to remove).

I applied a thin coat of threebond 1184 to the gasket, re-heated the cover and dropped it on evenly. So far no leaks, but I gotta take it on a long ride to make sure. The good news is that last time I put it together it was leaking before I ever started it up, so I've at least slowed down the leak, if not stopped it completely.
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