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Old 09-28-2013, 08:15 PM   #16
bmwhacker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
I remember seeing films of other types of radial engines that have a stationary crankshaft, and the cylinders actually spin with the prop.
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Old 09-28-2013, 08:47 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwhacker View Post
I remember seeing films of other types of radial engines that have a stationary crankshaft, and the cylinders actually spin with the prop.
WW1, rotary as apposed to radial, but the crank and rod system was most probably the same, for the same reason.
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Old 09-28-2013, 08:53 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by disston View Post
Mention it all the time. Notice it every time in start my bike. I say to myself, "Look at that. The right cylinder is behind the left."

I think the radial airplane engines are different than our bikes in many ways. For one thing they always have an odd number of cylinders. (I forget the reason or explanation of this but have for years been trying to find it. If a single row or bank of cylinders is used the number of cylinders is odd. The P-51 had an even number of cylinders because it had two rows and they could be run independently, I've heard)

We have a lot of pilots and plane freaks here maybe somebody will explain.

Now I'm going to go back 25 years when I still used to work on radials. The reason for the odd number of cylinders in each row was for the firing of each cylinder - the timing was #1 cylinder, then 3, 5, 7 , 9, 2, 4, 6, 8, and then back to #1. So they would fire every second cylinder to keep the power pulses coming smoothly as the crank did it's rotation.

Er.. The P-51 didn't have a radial engine. Multiple row radials always had uneven numbers in their cylinder banks as well - 7, 9, etc. The Pratt & Whitney R4360 has 4 rows of 7 cylinders - total of 28. The Wright R3350 had 2 rows of 9 cylinders - total of 18. I hope I make sense here.
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Old 09-28-2013, 08:58 PM   #19
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How the hell did removing a bolt turn into a discussion about radial engines?
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Old 09-28-2013, 09:16 PM   #20
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How the hell did removing a bolt turn into a discussion about radial engines?
He knows how to get the stud out now. Should we be talking about girls?

For 4 grand you can get your own fully operational radial engine---table top size. Runs on glow fuel...

powered wheels anybody?
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Old 09-29-2013, 01:51 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by jackd View Post
How the hell did removing a bolt turn into a discussion about radial engines?
Blame Plaka. It's usually him or me. This time it might be both of us tho.
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Old 09-29-2013, 04:07 AM   #22
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Blame Plaka. It's usually him or me. This time it might be both of us tho.
Proppin' each other up eh'?
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:35 AM   #23
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The purpose of the stud is to hang the gearbox on when installing it. I removed the one in my 81 RT and replaced it with a bolt. There is a product out called Freeze which may help in the removal of the stud along with heating the engine case. Heat the case and Freeze the stud.

Different companies call it by different names. Here is one made by Wurth.
http://ppcco.com.au/wurth_rost_off_ice.htm
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:03 AM   #24
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Cold Spray

This is a similar product to the one above - we use it at my airline:

http://www.amazon.ca/MG-Chemicals-Su.../dp/B0047Y9DKS
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Old 09-29-2013, 04:05 PM   #25
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There are different size taps for different thread fits. Kinda like C1, C2, and C3 bearings but different but as far as I know the thread tap used for that stud is standard. The stud has just been their for a long time! A lot of transmission threads in airheads have coil inserts (Helicoiled is a brand name) from the factory. Hitting the stud real hard first is good advise as is using a lot of heat. It's going to take an oxygen/acetylene welder. The case soaks up too much heat for lesser flames to get it hot enough. What hasn't been mentioned is the correct tool: A stud remover. Snap On's are good ones IMO.

Every one row radial has an odd number of cylinders for the master rod being the odd one out. The other rods are called articulated rods. The rod pins on the master rod are just like the piston pins. On all but the very small radials, the master rod is one piece and the crank is pressed together. Otherwise the master rod will break. Warner Scarabs that I use to work on had two piece master rods. Under 500 ci if I remember right. Above around 500 ci radials have one piece master rods. Bigger engines that I mostly worked on were Wright Whirlwinds and all of them had one piece master rods. Rotaries have the exact same crankshaft layout as radials. The engine case is attached to the airframe on radials and the crankshaft is attached to the airframe on rotaries. The crankshaft spins in the former and the engine spins ON the latter hence the prop is attached to the crankshaft on a radial and to the engine case on a rotary.

The power output of those rotaries is still unobtainable and gasoline during WWI was around 50 to 60 octane! 110hp at 1100rpm is a LOT of power! (Torque.) That's why most all rotary powered WWI replicas are 3/4 scale. No one makes a modern engine light enough AND powerful enough to fly a full scale replica.

Harleys and such are the only MC engines somewhat like a radial in having the cylinders in line and therein lies their weak spot: their fork and knife rod setup.

supershaft screwed with this post 09-29-2013 at 06:34 PM
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:35 AM   #26
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Stationary Crank Radial

Yes, there were stationary crank radials, here is one example,.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZzCHck1s-rA
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