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Old 09-12-2013, 07:48 PM   #61
supershaft
because I can
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 8,442
Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
Here is the torque figure for the clutch pack to the flywheel; 16 to 17 ft/lbs.

SS is working on many bikes at a time. I have only to work on one. I like to clean stuff I have taken apart, including bearings, and check them both visually and in operation. Then I can fill with clean new grease. I don't see any disadvantage to this except it might take me longer. But I'm not in a hurry.

Finding a quality torque wrench for lower settings is problematic. These things can cost big bucks. Mine is older and the type is not readily available today. There is a large selection of tools for bicycles though that we may borrow from. I have always heard good things about Park Tools but I don't currently own any. These tools are made for bicycle mechanics.



This tool can be had at the following site;http://cycleplicity.com/products/242...FcRlOgod9V4AGg

Not sure that link will work. The price on this site is $75.59 Most other places were over a hundred dollars.

You may find something that is a better deal or just cheaper to do the job or you may find this same tool for less. I think clicker torque wrenches are better. This is a clicker.
I almost always work on one bike at a time. I don't make shortcuts to save time. I try to never be in a big enough hurry to compromise my work. I don't make shortcuts because I am a professional and I am trying to make more money working on motorcycles. I have known many a mechanic like that but . . . . If I wanted to make more money, I wouldn't be a motorcycle mechanic. I would most likely be into real estate or whatnot. I do what I love because I love it and I somehow make a living from it. I don't leave my swingarm bearings in to save time. I don't make shortcuts because I am a professional. I don't take them apart because it is a waste of time. Sure, if I am working a POS that has been setting for a long time or has an unknown history but other than that . . . . I focus on matters that matter. It makes for a much better setup! All of us are only on this planet for a limited time! :)
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Old 09-29-2013, 12:01 PM   #62
disston
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Location: Silver Spring, Md
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Natter,

It's been awhile. Not sure where you are at the moment. Do you still need a final drive? I don't know what size FD tha is. You should use the same one, same drive ratio, so you don't have to change the speedo.

There is a 3.20 or 32/10 that was listed today on the Flea Market. It is not cheap but it is completely rebuilt so this is at least not a bad deal'

http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...87704&page=120

Post #1791

If that is not the correct ratio let us know what ratio do you have?
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:06 AM   #63
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
Natter,

It's been awhile. Not sure where you are at the moment. Do you still need a final drive? I don't know what size FD tha is. You should use the same one, same drive ratio, so you don't have to change the speedo.

There is a 3.20 or 32/10 that was listed today on the Flea Market. It is not cheap but it is completely rebuilt so this is at least not a bad deal'

http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...87704&page=120

Post #1791

If that is not the correct ratio let us know what ratio do you have?
If the splines in your wheel aren't just as cherry, it isn't a good deal either. The loose wheel splines will hammer the new drive splines. Accelerated wear on that drive..
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:10 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
If the splines in your wheel aren't just as cherry, it isn't a good deal either. The loose wheel splines will hammer the new drive splines. Accelerated wear on that drive..
Yes I think we covered the issue of wheel splines matching the drive splines. Natter's drive splines are particularly bad but they still work. He needs to get some pars or have his current parts rebuilt this Winter maybe.
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:39 PM   #65
Natter2002 OP
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Location: Minnesota
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Hi gents

Yup I'm still here, was just away on a motorcycle trip around Lake SUperior on my tiny 883 Iron. It was a BLAST!! I have the rear main seal tool coming in the mail, so I'll do it the right way. Everything should show up in few weeks, including my rebuilt tranny and we'll see where it goes from there.

As a side note regarding torque wrenches I ended up buying the full set of 3 from Harbor Freight and had them tested at our local precision labratory. Turns out, just like Car and Driver or whoever it was justt posted: They performed as advertised, that is to say amazingly accurate and +- 4% or pounds or whatever is on the box, just like the high end stuff.. Heck, now they are even on sale for 10 bucks a piece! So why not?
I will be in touch with hopefully smaller pictures as I start to put things back together.
Nathan
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Old 11-11-2013, 08:09 AM   #66
Natter2002 OP
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All the parts are here

Ok, everything is ready to go back together, including the transmission back from Anton. I caught there should be some sanding done to the frictin disc? Any prep work before I start installing everything?
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Old 11-11-2013, 08:27 AM   #67
disston
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You're going to have to give us a complete run down of just where this project is currently. We all vaguely remember that you sent the trans to Anton for a rebuild? Now that is back? Good. Are you replacing any of the clutch parts? Which ones? Did you already replace the rear main oil seal and oil pump O-ring? Why not?

I think the bike involved is an R60/? What year?

There was a serious question about the final drive and wheel splines. Is this on hold? We want to advise that it does happen that the drive splines can wear all the way out and the bike won't move. If I remember correctly yours is pretty close.
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Old 11-11-2013, 08:42 AM   #68
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Natter2002 View Post
Ok, everything is ready to go back together, including the transmission back from Anton. I caught there should be some sanding done to the frictin disc? Any prep work before I start installing everything?
barely touch that disk with sandpaper. Don't breath any dust. none. Just don't trust it.

lube splines.

don't bang the clutch cable eye on anything.

redo the paint in the "flywheel" markings.

Make sacrifices to the Gawds of mechanics. I usually have a couple beers and pour a libation from each.
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Old 11-11-2013, 09:14 AM   #69
supershaft
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I wouldn't look too hard for flywheel markings. That clutch never had them. At least not from the factory. This is just the tip of the iceburg regarding some advise around here but this misinfo is the easiest to clear up. They didn't have the balance markings and then they did. It's pretty cut and dry unless the OP's bike has a later clutch in it that came with balance marks from the factory?

supershaft screwed with this post 11-11-2013 at 09:19 AM
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Old 11-11-2013, 09:54 AM   #70
Natter2002 OP
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Where we left off:
I have a new RMS seal and tool, (uninstalled) and oil pump cover ring. New speedo boot cover. When I checked the clutch components everything looked great so I'm leaving that alone. I did order new thrust bearing and the surfaces it rides on. Sorry I've been away from this project I cant remember the names of this stuff.

Drive splines: I've leaving that alone for now.

Roger, Plaka, I will do those things. I have new flywheel bolts, new driveshaft bolts, and that little tool Northwoods sells to install them. I also splurged and got the cluth alignment tool as well.
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Old 08-14-2014, 06:45 PM   #71
Natter2002 OP
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Tranny won't go into gear

Ok so I am back at it with this project. Right now I have the transmission installed and I am bolting the driveshaft to the output flange. Of course the shaft spins so I tried to put the box into first gear and that is when I discovered I couldn't get it out of neutral. I'm shifting up and down and it doesn't go into gear. If I hold the selector down and gently spin the rear wheel I can get it to catch first gear but it won't stay in. Any clues? Can I try to describe it better, if that helps?
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Old 08-14-2014, 06:52 PM   #72
disston
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The fact that you have to spin the wheel to get the trans to go into gear is not unusual. The dogs have to match up with the holes for the trans to shift. Rotating the wheel allows the dogs to find their place.

I can't explain the part about the gears not staying in gear but this is not considered a test of the transmission. A test of the transmission is when you have the bike running and take it for a test ride.
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:23 PM   #73
Natter2002 OP
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The trick?

I figured as much. It went into all the gears before I installed it so I know it's something simple. Anyway, what's the trick to torque the driveshaft bolts (to keep em from spinning? I have the adapter and did the calculation, etc.

Nate!
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:36 PM   #74
Big Bamboo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Natter2002 View Post
I figured as much. It went into all the gears before I installed it so I know it's something simple. Anyway, what's the trick to torque the driveshaft bolts (to keep em from spinning? I have the adapter and did the calculation, etc.

Nate!
Broom handle or similar through the spokes above the drive shaft.
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Old 08-15-2014, 05:20 AM   #75
Natter2002 OP
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Duh, wasn't thinking it through

Yeah I suppose I could also go ahead and install the rear brake pedal and hold that as I turn the wrench. Plus I bet if I got the motor to turn a bit the dogs would stay in place. Only thing I can think of. Maybe I'll just turn the motor by hand and see what happens. Gotta be something easy/simple.
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