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Old 07-30-2013, 08:08 PM   #16
The Griz
North Forest Rider
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Minnesota
Oddometer: 3,787
Originally Posted by uk_mouse View Post
I've come to the conclusion that my forks are too sticky - they don't seem to react very well to small movements. And where they settle into a neutral position can be a couple of inches different depending on whether they were going from extended or compressed.

I read about removing the third bush from the fork leg (this is a 2004 S model, so 3 bushes plus a big spacer tube), and tried this but it gave what I thought was unacceptable play in the fork sliders.

So, are there any other ways I can address the problem? Different oil? Currently using Motul 5W oil, I have read suggestions that ATF can give less stiction. I've also got fork seal savers fitted (the neoprene tube type) which probably don't help matters.

I'm planning a quick service on the forks this week (new oil, clean seals etc) so thought I'd ask this question before I start just in case there's anything relatively easy I can try out.

Cheers all :)
Do not use ATF or any non-fork oil. Your use of Motul 5w is spot on. Motul is great oil. However, if you want the fork to react faster to faster/smaller/chatter bumps then 2.5w might be in order. The lighter to oil weight the better the fork will react to fast/small/chatter movements. However, when you use lighter weight oil your low speed damping will suffer. Your fork will react to larger/slower hits slower or worse. Going to extremes on for oil weights is a 'band aid' fix for proper valving. You might need to send your forks in to get revalved.

Do not remove any bushes, rather replace all of them. Worn bushes are one of the prime causes of stiction. Replace 'em all. Removing one of them is a 'band aid' fix for actually replacing a worn bushing.

I have very strong opinions about the neoprene fork boots. They accumulate dirt beneath them and act like sand paper, scratching the surface of your slider tubes. I have ridden dirt bikes for years in muddy and dusty conditions both and have never used fork boots. With proper maintenance I have never had any issues.

Switching to green SKF seals will help immensely. They will allow your slider tubes to move easier. Check out this vid:

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Old 07-30-2013, 11:55 PM   #17
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Joined: Feb 2008
Location: WI
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I would remove the extra bushings. I ripped through a fork leg on my '04 MXC300 and was confused as hell when my replacement used set had 3 bushings
I rebuilt em the same as the original set that was mounted (but was worked by MXTech) and have not suffered any ill effects. I wouldn't hesitate to do the same on the big bike.

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Old 10-08-2013, 03:54 AM   #18
uk_mouse OP
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: UK
Oddometer: 1,481
Just a follow up to this topic.

I fitted SKF green fork seals, they are expensive (50 for a set) but worth it, as my stiction problems are now a thing of the past. I didn't remove any bushes from the fork legs, and don't feel any need to now.

So in short, SKF seals - they really do work it seems.
"When compared to other motorists attempting to escape a zombie outbreak, dirt bike riders have a 23-to-1 survival rate." - The Zombie Survival Guide by Max Brooks
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