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Old 05-13-2013, 04:45 AM   #76
JimVonBaden OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbski View Post
Where did you get this kit, and did it in fact come with the 90 degree male quick connects?

Thanks,
Jb
www.beemerboneyard.com It comes with the appropriate male and female QDs based on model year.

Jim
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:47 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
www.beemerboneyard.com It comes with the appropriate male and female QDs based on model year.

Jim
Thanks
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Old 05-17-2013, 07:24 PM   #78
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Well after almost doing a thru and thru on my thumb with an awl getting the old QDC off the fuel line I decided to break the bank and spend 14 bux on new lines (Continental Rubber OEM) and cut the old prix off.

Phew....all done 'cept for putting the tank back on and doing the final cut for the QDC on the l/side crossover line (1150GSA).

The plastic OEM's were still functional so I'm keeping them and only gonna use one female end to use on the low pressure return line to drain the tank or siphon gas for someone if needed.

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom...GS%20tank.html
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:55 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genka View Post
Jim, thanks. The tape was labeled as gas and oil resistant.
Perhaps you could provide the product name/brand/number for others?
-ceej
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Old 05-19-2013, 01:10 PM   #80
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I noticed that my sealant pooled inside the flange clamp, like in the pictures.

How long does it take for the sealant to solidify?

ETA: Never mind I'm a dumbshit, overnight per the instructions.
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Norhasken screwed with this post 05-19-2013 at 01:55 PM
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Old 05-21-2013, 06:35 AM   #81
JimVonBaden OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1200gsceej View Post
Perhaps you could provide the product name/brand/number for others?
-ceej
http://www.sealtape.com/ptfe_yellow.html



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Old 05-21-2013, 12:21 PM   #82
genka
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Probably what Jim posted. This tape was a leftover from water heater replacement, I used it on the gas line. It came from Home Depot.
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:35 PM   #83
200GRLSWC
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Just did this today as part of my 24,000 mile service on my 2008 R1200GS Adventure.

[As an aside, what shouldn't be all that much of a service is turning into a major affair. I'm also replacing a ton of badly corroded bolts, and while I have that much of the thing apart I'm taking out the OEM ESA suspension and swapping in the Wilbers I've had on the shelf for a rainy day--actually, rescued from my old '05 GS that I traded in for the Adventure). ]

In any case, I just wanted to note that on the '08 Adventure the gas rings are both located on the top front of the gas tank, with one disconnector on each side. The left ring has the fuel pump, based on what appear to be heat-dissipating fins, and not really sure what the right ring does, but each had one quick disconnecter.

I didn't have any cracks visible, but one of the plastic disconnectors broke in my hand when I gave it a moderately forceful bend. Glad I have the steel ones on there now. All in all not too difficult a job at all.

Now, back to my rusty bolts.
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:49 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by 200GRLSWC View Post

Now, back to my rusty bolts.
Not to hijack the thread, but have you tried Pine-Sol on reconditioning your bolts? I don't know what kinda guam you are dealing with, but straight Pine-Sol will give old rusted bolts a look as though they have been zinc coated!

Leave them in overnight and wash them off with soapy water and rinse. Oh, and don't leave the Pine-Sol open to the air. The smell will give you the vapors as bad or worse than other solvents.

Hth. ~Jeff
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Old 05-21-2013, 05:05 PM   #85
200GRLSWC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lat View Post
Not to hijack the thread, but have you tried Pines-Sol on reconditioning your bolts? I don't know what kinda guam you are dealing with, but straight Pine-Sol will give old rusted bolts a look as though they have been zinc coated!

Leave them in overnight and wash them off with soapy water and rinse. Oh, and don't leave the Pine-Sol open to the air. The smell will give you the vapors as bad or worse than other solvents.

Hth. ~Jeff
I appreciate the tip. At this point, though, if I can manage to get them out of the engine, I'm just going to replace them with stainless. I can buy the stainless metric bolts just down the street, and I have to believe that if the OEM bolts rusted this bad in the first 24,000 miles they'll probably do the same or worse in the next 24,000.

Andrew
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Old 10-22-2013, 04:13 PM   #86
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Thread Sealant

Hey guys. I've read through this whole thread and see a couple of guys have tried using the Permatex 59214 instead of Mike's recommended 56521. I have completed my second go around with the provided Gasolia.

For both attempts I made sure the threads were cleaned with carb cleaner and a brush then fully dried. I applied the Gasolia after allowing it to cure for a 1/2 hour the first time and an hour and a half the second time. I then put it all together and waited 30 hours on the first attempt and 48 hours on the second. The results were the same. As soon as I turned the bike over a leak appeared around the Gasolia that was contained by the installed clamp. I only mention all this to let you know I am not a complete ID10T. My question really is about the thread sealant.

I live in Eastern Canada and am having a difficult time tracking down Permatex 56521. I can get hold of the 59214 quite easily but would like to know if anyone has any more feedback, good or bad, or opinions of the 59214 they could share?
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Old 10-22-2013, 04:28 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by Boogie View Post
I live in Eastern Canada and am having a difficult time tracking down Permatex 56521. I can get hold of the 59214 quite easily but would like to know if anyone has any more feedback, good or bad, or opinions of the 59214 they could share?

I've used Permatex 59214 for other applications and it should work about as well as the 56521 the primary difference being that it can some higher temperatures than the 56521.
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Old 10-27-2013, 10:24 PM   #88
1200gsceej
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Permatex #56521 Thread Sealant

I have a 1.69 oz (50 ml) tube of Permatex Thread Sealant #56521.
It has been used once to seal two metal QDs that I installed on my 12GS (which also had the flange cracks). There is plenty more in the tube (at least a dozen and probably many more QDs), and at the cost of some $17+ for the tube, it is a shame to go to waste.
We ought to 'pass it around'.
If you need some, let me know.
For $5 and shipping its yours.
Then you can make similar arrangements with the next inmate.
-ceej
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My bike: Yellow '05 1200GS - on the Spotwalla ADV location page as CJ3.
My solo trips: SF to Colorado and back 2011 and 2013, SF-LA loop, Pinnacles and Carmel Valley loop
With Ol'Badger: http://www.2guysonbikes.com
And remember: Beauty is in the behind of the holder.
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Old 10-31-2013, 05:37 PM   #89
Boogie
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Permatex 56521

Just a follow up on my request.

Thanks for the offer ceej, I managed to find some Permatex 56521 locally and it seems to have done the trick. I've had the bike on a 1/2 hour run and no signs of leaks for the past couple of days.

A big thanks to everyone here for helping out and sharing your knowledge. Jim if you ever get Northeast into Canada I owe you a beer.

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Old 10-31-2013, 08:04 PM   #90
genka
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What happened to this thread? Five months worth of posts disappeared.
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