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Old 01-06-2013, 09:49 PM   #91
gunnerbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Syncrosimon View Post
Just taken apart my 400. Never been opened. It's a 1998 engine on 15000 miles.

This is the water side of the seal.
And this is the oil side.

The inner and outer seals wear differently on the shaft.



Hope it may help with working out which way to put the seal.

The oil in the inner bearing was ever so slightly milky. I have ordered new parts. The scuffing can barely be felt with the finger nail, more like polishing.
That pump seal is a double lip seal with a retaining spring garter on both sides so it really should not matter which way it goes as it has to seal in both directions... Normally with a single sided seal the garter spring side faces toward the fluid you want to seal in and the writing side faces outward...

I usually put the writing side towards the coolant/impeller side of the pump if I remember to notice..
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:41 AM   #92
gravityisnotmyfriend
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nom de Guerre View Post
Rebuilding the LC4 Mechanical Water Pump
Step 3
Since you diligently read and followed Creeper’s instructions , your engine is at or close to TDC-C, and therefore the slot (or groove as KTM refers to it) in the camshaft driving screw should be aligned vertically or nearly so. You should, therefore, be able to lift the water pump up and out of the engine case without difficulty. You should not have to force anything. When the slot is properly aligned, the water pump should just lift out. To see the slotted (or grooved) driving screw, scroll down a bit to the next photograph.
I had a heck of a time getting my water pump out. I diligently followed Creeper's instructions and set the piston at TDC-C. Pump wouldn't budge. I finally decided to roll the engine forward and see if it helped. The pump eventually came out, but for some reason, the slot on my bike is horizontal - not vertical when the piston is at TDC-C



Click on the pic for a bigger view and you can see that both cam lobes are down and the slot is horizontal. What gives here? Do I have some sort of an anomaly? Should I be concerned that the PO hosed something up?
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:22 PM   #93
gunnerbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gravityisnotmyfriend View Post
I had a heck of a time getting my water pump out. I diligently followed Creeper's instructions and set the piston at TDC-C. Pump wouldn't budge. I finally decided to roll the engine forward and see if it helped. The pump eventually came out, but for some reason, the slot on my bike is horizontal - not vertical when the piston is at TDC-C



Click on the pic for a bigger view and you can see that both cam lobes are down and the slot is horizontal. What gives here? Do I have some sort of an anomaly? Should I be concerned that the PO hosed something up?
Very rarely does the drive slot line up at TDC, in fact I've never seen one that did... You did the right thing to roll the engine until the slot is vertical, just make sure when the pump is back in place to turn the engine back so the cams are pointing down before you install the valve cover...
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:32 PM   #94
gravityisnotmyfriend
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Ah, I see. Thanks for the reassurance!

From the write up, I assumed that the slot should line up vertical at TDC.


This write up as been a huge help. My new bearings and seal are on the way - I should have this bike ready to roll soon. Hopefully before all the snow melts!
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:12 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
Very rarely does the drive slot line up at TDC, in fact I've never seen one that did... You did the right thing to roll the engine until the slot is vertical, just make sure when the pump is back in place to turn the engine back so the cams are pointing down before you install the valve cover...
Don't believe this is covered in the Workshop engine assembly section of the manual.

Important info. I put a note in my assembly instructions.
Find the factory manual here in pdf.

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...ual-98-a-35025

Thanks Gunner.
bill
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:14 AM   #96
Umarth
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sealing the o-rings

Question about the O-rings on the water pump.

The manual states that I should put some liquid gasket of them when reinstalling the pump onto the engine.

But when I removed the water pump, there was not a trace of gasket on the rings them self.

Also, by putting the Honda bond on the O-rings, that means I'll probably have to replace them. Which I'd rather avoid if I can for various reasons.


So, question : should I or should I not put Honda bond on the O-rings?

Thanks,
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:27 AM   #97
gunnerbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Umarth View Post
Question about the O-rings on the water pump.

The manual states that I should put some liquid gasket of them when reinstalling the pump onto the engine.

But when I removed the water pump, there was not a trace of gasket on the rings them self.

Also, by putting the Honda bond on the O-rings, that means I'll probably have to replace them. Which I'd rather avoid if I can for various reasons.


So, question : should I or should I not put Honda bond on the O-rings?

Thanks,
I would follow what the manual says, they added that for a reason... The O-rings can be cleaned off well enough to reuse them... I have reused the pump o-rings on several occasions without issue ..
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Old 10-23-2013, 02:21 AM   #98
Sirakor
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I just pulled apart my water pump, and it seems to me that the pin in the housing is broken. I mean the little black pin that you can see on the top right of the pic below. My repair manual states that this slots into the rocker cover.

What do you guys think? Do I need a new housing, or will I be fine to install the old one?

Pics of my pump:



What it should look like:


Sirakor screwed with this post 10-23-2013 at 02:43 AM
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:01 AM   #99
Sparrowhawk
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The pin prevents the pump from rotating. I am not sure what the risk level is if installed using sealant but if it was mine I would find a way to fix it right.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 10-23-2013, 05:39 PM   #100
gunnerbuck
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You should be ok to use the pump without the dowel in place.... Make sure you use sealant on the o-rings before assembly...

I believe the early model LC 4 water pumps did not even have the index dowel on the mounting surface...
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Old 02-12-2014, 07:24 AM   #101
bajadog
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Just another suggestion for easing bearing into housing.

I found that by following the instruction of freezing the assembled
bearing/water pump shaft, and placing the water pump housing
in some almost boiling water (not the seal side), the bearings
went in with only finger pressure.
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Old 02-14-2014, 09:57 AM   #102
Dubl-A
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Quick question all,

I'm having a heck of a time "Persuading" the old shaft/bearing out of the pump housing.

Would heating up the housing help?
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:08 AM   #103
gunnerbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dubl-A View Post
Quick question all,

I'm having a heck of a time "Persuading" the old shaft/bearing out of the pump housing.

Would heating up the housing help?
Very much so...
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Old 02-18-2014, 06:49 AM   #104
Dubl-A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
Very much so...

Under a minute of heat and it popped right out, thanks!!

I'm loving this heat gun I just picked up...Can't beleive I went so long without one in the garage.
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Old 02-27-2014, 11:58 AM   #105
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Weird issue, maybe you all can clarify for me...

The parts breakdown shows only (1) rubber o-ring, the how-to here shows (2)

Do any of you have the part number of the larger one?

I received (1) 0770047015 o-ring

Parts list can be found here.

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oempa...867/water-pump
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