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Old 10-25-2013, 06:21 PM   #31
_cy_
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Oddometer: 5,306
Quote:
Originally Posted by redleger View Post
Yep, so 13.5-15v is withing parameters. zero resistance at the 3 yellow wires which seems to be within spec. Now I am lost again.
about will not work .. what is exact voltage reading at battery @ 3,000 rpm?
what is resting voltage of battery after a full charge, followed by sitting overnight?
what meter are you using?

each test is specifically designed to eliminate one item.

you need to quit jumping all over the place .. start eliminating items with specific tests. otherwise you are chasing all over

forget about drilling in until you've determined what is actually causing your problems. did you spray carb cleaner directly into carb when it's acting up?
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Old 10-25-2013, 06:53 PM   #32
redleger OP
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Location: Tornado Alley, Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _cy_ View Post
about will not work .. what is exact voltage reading at battery @ 3,000 rpm?
what is resting voltage of battery after a full charge, followed by sitting overnight?
what meter are you using?

each test is specifically designed to eliminate one item.

you need to quit jumping all over the place .. start eliminating items with specific tests. otherwise you are chasing all over

forget about drilling in until you've determined what is actually causing your problems. did you spray carb cleaner directly into carb when it's acting up?
did not spray directly in. I think the carb is dialed in. idles fine, accelerates and decelerates fine with no popping. This stalling when warm issue is the new issue. I also replaced the spark plug just because the old one looked horrible.
OK, so which thing do I need to start with then? battery voltage after being on the charger all night was 12.5. idle reading was 13.5 and did not change at 3k rpm or 5k rpm.
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Old 10-26-2013, 11:24 AM   #33
dallasdrz
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Location: dallas
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Stalling

Sorry for your grief,
This symptom could be a stator going bad after it's hot,

Bike could be flooding out or not getting fuel ( do you have a vent valve ? )

Valves could be out of spec .

Or previous posts.
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Old 10-28-2013, 01:15 AM   #34
_cy_
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redleger View Post
did not spray directly in. I think the carb is dialed in. idles fine, accelerates and decelerates fine with no popping. This stalling when warm issue is the new issue. I also replaced the spark plug just because the old one looked horrible.
OK, so which thing do I need to start with then? battery voltage after being on the charger all night was 12.5. idle reading was 13.5 and did not change at 3k rpm or 5k rpm.
now you are getting stalling when warm .. good grief .. kinda of hard figuring out what's wrong, if it's a moving target. if engine stalls and dies. then you spray starter fluid, engine runs fine for a few seconds. then problems is related to fuel.

back to basics, which is to eliminate one thing at a time. it might help to go back and re-read instructions I've already posted. they are basic procedures and will not change.

did you charge battery up to full then allow to rest overnight before taking reading? voltage reading fresh off charger will not tell you anything. don't use battery tenders which could take days to reach full.

after full charge, overnight resting voltage should be 12.6v to 12.8v for a fully charged lead acid battery. then start your bike for the load testing portion. if say your voltage is 12.8v and starts bike fine. odds are battery is good. your bike's charging voltage should be closer to 14.2v .. 13.5v is too low.

your meter could be wrong .. or your regulator is not working. unlikely stator is bad or voltage reading would not raise above battery's resting voltage. your bike runs off battery, then alternator charges back up. your bike should run fine with alternator dead, until battery is depleted.

without exact data, it's impossible to help from a distance. on top of symptoms constantly changing. it may be time to take your bike to a local mechanic.

_cy_ screwed with this post 10-28-2013 at 01:33 AM
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Old 11-01-2013, 06:38 AM   #35
dallasdrz
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Any success ?

Don't give up, these are great reliable bike if it's nothing major the previous owner didn't let you in on.

FYI, I'll be in Ninnekah ( south of Chickasha) sometime the week of thanksgiving.

Mabye we can hook up and can assist a little?
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Old 11-01-2013, 07:48 AM   #36
redleger OP
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Location: Tornado Alley, Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dallasdrz View Post
Don't give up, these are great reliable bike if it's nothing major the previous owner didn't let you in on.

FYI, I'll be in Ninnekah ( south of Chickasha) sometime the week of thanksgiving.

Mabye we can hook up and can assist a little?
If I don't have it licked by then I would gladly welcome the assistance. I know Suzuki makes great bikes. Its the
only brand I have ever owned. This particular bike just has plagued me since I got it with problem after problem.

Sent from my galaxy to your screen. Fat finger typos are a occupational hazard.
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Old 12-29-2013, 12:39 PM   #37
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OK. Bought a new needle and pilot jet from Jesse a while back and got around to finally changing it out along with the new extended fuel screw.

So I got the carb off and realized that I have no idea which jet is the pilot jet and Google on my phone showed no clear images. So as I look down on the main jet with the bowl off there are 2 jets to either side. One is sunk in and one is flush with the opening. Which one of those is it? I am inclined to think the one sunk in since I pilled the other one and it did not look like the new one. If this is the case then why won't it come out. I unscrewed it and turned the carb over and it would not fall out. Yes I made sure it was unscrewed all the way.

Is there some trick or do I need to go find some skinny dental pick to pull it out?

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