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Old 10-28-2013, 09:04 PM   #83131
shu
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I'm sure others here are quite good at changing tires and they will offer their bead breaker up, but all I can do is speak from my experience: [Don't read any further if it makes you mad and makes you want to call me out. I'm not looking for a fight )

I've never met a tire that I couldn't break the bead on with 3 regular sized tire irons, tire lube and patience and sometimes some cussing. Ever. That includes some stiff walled tires like MEFOs, Heidenaus, Metzler Tourances, and other IRC, Bridgestone, etc. I've ridden a lot of miles and changed a lot of tires.

So my answer is I don't carry a special tool for breaking the bead.


My technique (I read it somewhere) is to use a lot of lube, and 3 tire irons: 2 pressing down on the outside of the tire about 6-8 inches apart ( angle them together and hold both with one hand) and the third levering millimeter by millimeter in the opposite direction in between the first two. You don't need to try to pop the whole thing off at once. You just need to move it little by little over the hump in the rim. Move it a little, and work a little more lube down into the wheel. It rarely takes me more than about ten minutes working in that one section of the tire to get the bead broken.

I also carefully scrub the black rubber residue out of the rim before I mount my new tire. I think that makes a difference in how hard it is to move the tire when you break the bead.

Also I try to work on warm tires if at all possible. I'll warm them by riding on them, setting them in the sun, leaning the wheel near my woodstove for awhile- anyway I can think of to soften up the rubber.

hope that helps some............shu
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:30 PM   #83132
Gebogen
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Beadbreaker

Camp suds or dish soap + water works for getting the tire off, scotch brite for cleaning the rim (and deglazing the rotors) and if you have time and the sun, baby powder (small, hospital give away size) for reinstalling the tube. Motion pro spoons with the axle wrenches; 24,22, & 19mm. Three irons makes it easier. Headlamps are kinda important too, just cause. By the way, J&P has the motion pro chainbreaker/riviter on sale for 5.99 + 6.95 shipping.

Warning - I did not say I was good at it
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Gebogen screwed with this post 10-28-2013 at 09:43 PM
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:37 PM   #83133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Ok so next must visited question IS:

Tire Bead breaker to take along to TDF.

Bestrest?
Motion Pro?
Something else?

What have YOU used with success?
Motion Pro Beadbreaker levers pack light and double as decent levers. I break 15" rear cruiser beads with almost 20K miles on them, no lube, in seconds. I also pack 2 t6 combo levers...24mm and 12mm/13mm. The DR's OEM toolkit has small levers too, with a 19mm and a 24mm wrench. I've actually used JUST the OEM toolkit to change a front tire. It works, but the Motion Pro levers are much nicer.
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:57 PM   #83134
Kommando
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
lots of expensive solutions flying today.


Actually, just the carb is likely to get mama mad. I use ATV Logic tank panniers and tankbag. They're around $25/ea. The Moose Dualsport front fenderpack wasn't very expensive either, and IMS tanks pop up for sale for under $150 sometimes. My front end stays down a little better now too.
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Some are guard dogs of the flock. Some herders, search/rescue, or companions. We Devildogs are those, and also retrievers. Hell is our blazing dogpark, our frigid swimming hole. The fallen are our tennis balls. We don't leave the fallen behind, even if the master has to bring them home for us. Semper Fi, my friends.
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:06 PM   #83135
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I'm sure others here are quite good at changing tires and they will offer their bead breaker up, but all I can do is speak from my experience: [Don't read any further if it makes you mad and makes you want to call me out. I'm not looking for a fight )

I've never met a tire that I couldn't break the bead on with 3 regular sized tire irons, tire lube and patience and sometimes some cussing. Ever. That includes some stiff walled tires like MEFOs, Heidenaus, Metzler Tourances, and other IRC, Bridgestone, etc. I've ridden a lot of miles and changed a lot of tires.

So my answer is I don't carry a special tool for breaking the bead.


My technique (I read it somewhere) is to use a lot of lube, and 3 tire irons: 2 pressing down on the outside of the tire about 6-8 inches apart ( angle them together and hold both with one hand) and the third levering millimeter by millimeter in the opposite direction in between the first two. You don't need to try to pop the whole thing off at once. You just need to move it little by little over the hump in the rim. Move it a little, and work a little more lube down into the wheel. It rarely takes me more than about ten minutes working in that one section of the tire to get the bead broken.

I also carefully scrub the black rubber residue out of the rim before I mount my new tire. I think that makes a difference in how hard it is to move the tire when you break the bead.

Also I try to work on warm tires if at all possible. I'll warm them by riding on them, setting them in the sun, leaning the wheel near my woodstove for awhile- anyway I can think of to soften up the rubber.

hope that helps some............shu
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Motion Pro Beadbreaker levers pack light and double as decent levers. I break 15" rear cruiser beads with almost 20K miles on them, no lube, in seconds. I also pack 2 t6 combo levers...24mm and 12mm/13mm. The DR's OEM toolkit has small levers too, with a 19mm and a 24mm wrench. I've actually used JUST the OEM toolkit to change a front tire. It works, but the Motion Pro levers are much nicer.
Either of you happen to have a GOPro or video cam to put your methods up on YouTube?
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:10 PM   #83136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Either of you happen to have a GOPro or video cam to put your methods up on YouTube?
We had to change 18 flats over 2 days on the southern AZ ride a few weeks ago and another 5 flats last weekend on a local ride.

If I see another flat tire I may just have to shoot my screen.
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:52 PM   #83137
Red Herring
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...t=larger+grips

Comfortable. Third bike with 'em, I'm never going back to skinny little grips made for Japanese girls. (The original grips are below the rope though)

Yes, I would pick another color - but I'm still trying to use up this cheap Home Depot rope I picked up, oh, about a decade ago. I'd use the same rope, but go for another color (which they didn't have when I needed it right before a camping & road trip years ago)
Bam! Thaks for the repost! Brilliant idea, and now on tomorrows to do list!!
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Old 10-29-2013, 04:57 AM   #83138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
OK, OK, it's more that in general riding a good amount of the time the pressure is just down onto the grips from above. These rope grips spread the pressure, create channels for circulation, and just generally feel good. Cramping up hands to grip smaller grips, or even not gripping them but still having those two thin rails of pressure in the palm of the hands, just doesn't work for me.

But I ask you to consider this - many old-school larger diameter grips (like foam ones) would actually make your hands work out harder by trying to control through the 'mush' of the grips. Was that the case for your experience? Because, if so, the difference is that these very tightly would rope grips don't really have that much cushioning to grip through to gain control. The 'mush' just isn't there, but the comfort is.
Those old grips were soft and I know that was part of the problem. I have a paddle type grip that gives more surface for the palm on my bicycle. Think I'll give the rope a try this winter starting with smaller diameter rope. My riding is all loose grip, float like a butterfly, until it turns death grip wide eye.
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:04 AM   #83139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
I prefer cord for venetian blinds or starter cord - it is about 1/8" diameter. The ends are (deliberately) frayed so that it lays flat when pulled under ~5 turns on the grips - use a loop of thin wire that is wound over to pull the end back under when finishing. Each turn is knotted with the knot under the second knuckle, others might prefer it in a different position or no knots at all and there is a smear of urethane under the cord.
Any chance you have a photo Numbers? Couldn't get your bike pages link to work.
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:35 AM   #83140
tlmaffucci
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I've never changed a tube on a motorcycle before. What is the basic process? Just so I'm not lost when I have to do it myself. Is it really as hard as y'all make it sound? Is this a good tool for the job?

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0519/

Should I also get a tire iron? Would this be sufficiant tools for the job.
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:44 AM   #83141
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Either of you happen to have a GOPro or video cam to put your methods up on YouTube?
Dave.......rope wrapped grips? I wear X-Large gloves due to freakishly long fingers.
I dont even like large-ish diameter grips as they make the bike feel clumsy.

How the hell do you hang on with grips that size? Ive never in 40 some years of riding seen grips wrapped with rope or even venetian blind twine.

Except yours of course.
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:46 AM   #83142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlmaffucci View Post
I've never changed a tube on a motorcycle before. What is the basic process? Just so I'm not lost when I have to do it myself. Is it really as hard as y'all make it sound? Is this a good tool for the job?

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0519/

Should I also get a tire iron? Would this be sufficiant tools for the job.
You may want to start with an ADV tire changing thread,all will be revealed. Its harder then some things on bikes.
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:52 AM   #83143
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
There is a difference between a race bike and how most of my bikes get used now. I'd not put larger grips on a sport bike if track days were still my thing.

Believe it or not, my glove size is medium. But my dick size got my hands used to something larger.



OK, OK, it's more that in general riding a good amount of the time the pressure is just down onto the grips from above. These rope grips spread the pressure, create channels for circulation, and just generally feel good. Cramping up hands to grip smaller grips, or even not gripping them but still having those two thin rails of pressure in the palm of the hands, just doesn't work for me.

As an aside, a client of mine who was a cabby in New York for many, many years (and who, while retired, still carries his medallion around... instead of selling it for hundreds of thousands of dollars) has both hands clenched tight from the arthritis of clenching those thin little steering wheels all those years. (And a huge lump on his elbow from resting it on the car door window area I guess?)

My hands have been abused and used hard enough. I'm positive I'm going to have arthritis from non-motorcycling endeavors; I don't need to exacerbate it by gripping and man-handling the DR650 when the DR650 putt-putts around at pretty reasonable speeds. I know I don't use my bike as hard as some, so take that with a grain of salt. If I were on some really rugged course I may change my mind, but in my mind that would have to be a Motorcross or hare scramble course like what you were doing.

(My riding around here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rP5_x68Bi-w&hd=1 )

But I ask you to consider this - many old-school larger diameter grips (like foam ones) would actually make your hands work out harder by trying to control through the 'mush' of the grips. Was that the case for your experience? Because, if so, the difference is that these very tightly would rope grips don't really have that much cushioning to grip through to gain control. The 'mush' just isn't there, but the comfort is.
I think you are in the .001 % who would ride with rope wrapped around your grips and say it was great. But this is the internets and others will now try it.

As long as it works,use it.
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:08 AM   #83144
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
I think you are in the .001 % who would ride with rope wrapped around your grips and say it was great. But this is the internets and others will now try it.

As long as it works,use it.
.001% who would ride with it - or in the .001% of riders who have tried it?

Your post just before this stated you've never seen anyone do it, so it's not like many have even thought about trying it, yet you cannot argue that there is a market for those larger foam grips (that are worthless), plus some other larger grips in general, and that the ergonomic trend in car steering wheels has been larger and larger diameters for the hands. Compare a 1970 steering wheel to a 2014 average car, then compare that average car's wheel to a 2014's super-car's steering wheel. Granted, it's a different purpose, but like we've already talked about - most of us are not racing. Hell, the average ADV rider I've seen and ridden with rides at about 50% of the level I do with my DR650, and I do not ride hard. If it's comfort common ADV'ers want, then I'd suggest they try this. The rare true racer amongst us would disagree, I'm sure, in an effort to control the bike when in mid-air when getting huge air.

And, again, I shouldn't have to write this because I'm sure you read through that thread I created where I stated how I came to the idea, but plenty of people who rely on getting a good grip to hold on to have been wrapping cordage around their handles and controls for probably 100, or more, years - yet all of a sudden the world has to stop and explain itself to guys who come up with statements like "I've never seen that done."

One way or another, thanks so much for giving me some random percentage number of where I stand in the community. In some way I'm sure it will help me before I die. Meanwhile, some of the riders who read that thread I created on it are already using their versions of it.

And holy shit, Private Pyle, thanks for your permission to use it.
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." --
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Mambo Dave screwed with this post 10-29-2013 at 08:19 AM
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Old 10-29-2013, 09:28 AM   #83145
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
Is the 13tooth front as wide as a 525 at the countershaft? Do you notice any countershaft wear running it if it is not? Any crazy wear on the chain slider like some of the WR250R guys experience?

Your gearing setup seems to be exactly what im considering.
I haven't run it enough to realize any wear on the swingarm slider. I found a SunStar 13 tooth in 520 with the correct spline. Overall thickness is 9mm. It's stamped "SunStar 317".
I recall that the Sunstar part # is 31713. I believe it was for an 80's KLX 250. It is not drilled and tapped for use with the stock retainer. I ran the clip for 13,000 miles on my '96 and hadn't noticed any wear on the countershaft from sprocket movement. That was with 14 tooth sprockets in 520 sourced from Keintech.

hope that's helpful
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