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Old 10-28-2013, 08:42 PM   #83101
acesandeights
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I have three Motion Pro irons of various sizes. They work well.
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acesandeights screwed with this post 10-29-2013 at 06:38 AM Reason: spelling
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:44 PM   #83102
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New DR650 owner

Well going to stop using my ktm 530 for around town riding. Just purchased
2007 DR650SE; 2800miles; excellent condition; sergeant seat and OEM seat included; upgraded rear tail light; rejetted; race tech gold revalved rear shock; procycle rear spring; intimidation catridge emulators; upgraded dunlop tires. And

So thanks for all the great info here.
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:45 PM   #83103
eakins
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Ok so next must visited question IS:

Tire Bead breaker to take along to TDF.

Bestrest?
Motion Pro?
Something else?

What have YOU used with success?
sidestand or the plastic one you whack with a rock and it wedges the tire off the bead. motion pro beadpro (alum. version) is the slickest of the group and doubles as irons.
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:04 PM   #83104
shu
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I'm sure others here are quite good at changing tires and they will offer their bead breaker up, but all I can do is speak from my experience: [Don't read any further if it makes you mad and makes you want to call me out. I'm not looking for a fight )

I've never met a tire that I couldn't break the bead on with 3 regular sized tire irons, tire lube and patience and sometimes some cussing. Ever. That includes some stiff walled tires like MEFOs, Heidenaus, Metzler Tourances, and other IRC, Bridgestone, etc. I've ridden a lot of miles and changed a lot of tires.

So my answer is I don't carry a special tool for breaking the bead.


My technique (I read it somewhere) is to use a lot of lube, and 3 tire irons: 2 pressing down on the outside of the tire about 6-8 inches apart ( angle them together and hold both with one hand) and the third levering millimeter by millimeter in the opposite direction in between the first two. You don't need to try to pop the whole thing off at once. You just need to move it little by little over the hump in the rim. Move it a little, and work a little more lube down into the wheel. It rarely takes me more than about ten minutes working in that one section of the tire to get the bead broken.

I also carefully scrub the black rubber residue out of the rim before I mount my new tire. I think that makes a difference in how hard it is to move the tire when you break the bead.

Also I try to work on warm tires if at all possible. I'll warm them by riding on them, setting them in the sun, leaning the wheel near my woodstove for awhile- anyway I can think of to soften up the rubber.

hope that helps some............shu
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:30 PM   #83105
Gebogen
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Location: Fresneck
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Beadbreaker

Camp suds or dish soap + water works for getting the tire off, scotch brite for cleaning the rim (and deglazing the rotors) and if you have time and the sun, baby powder (small, hospital give away size) for reinstalling the tube. Motion pro spoons with the axle wrenches; 24,22, & 19mm. Three irons makes it easier. Headlamps are kinda important too, just cause. By the way, J&P has the motion pro chainbreaker/riviter on sale for 5.99 + 6.95 shipping.

Warning - I did not say I was good at it
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:37 PM   #83106
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Ok so next must visited question IS:

Tire Bead breaker to take along to TDF.

Bestrest?
Motion Pro?
Something else?

What have YOU used with success?
Motion Pro Beadbreaker levers pack light and double as decent levers. I break 15" rear cruiser beads with almost 20K miles on them, no lube, in seconds. I also pack 2 t6 combo levers...24mm and 12mm/13mm. The DR's OEM toolkit has small levers too, with a 19mm and a 24mm wrench. I've actually used JUST the OEM toolkit to change a front tire. It works, but the Motion Pro levers are much nicer.
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:57 PM   #83107
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
lots of expensive solutions flying today.


Actually, just the carb is likely to get mama mad. I use ATV Logic tank panniers and tankbag. They're around $25/ea. The Moose Dualsport front fenderpack wasn't very expensive either, and IMS tanks pop up for sale for under $150 sometimes. My front end stays down a little better now too.
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:06 PM   #83108
Mambo Dave
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: 11 ft. AMSL
Oddometer: 5,858
Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I'm sure others here are quite good at changing tires and they will offer their bead breaker up, but all I can do is speak from my experience: [Don't read any further if it makes you mad and makes you want to call me out. I'm not looking for a fight )

I've never met a tire that I couldn't break the bead on with 3 regular sized tire irons, tire lube and patience and sometimes some cussing. Ever. That includes some stiff walled tires like MEFOs, Heidenaus, Metzler Tourances, and other IRC, Bridgestone, etc. I've ridden a lot of miles and changed a lot of tires.

So my answer is I don't carry a special tool for breaking the bead.


My technique (I read it somewhere) is to use a lot of lube, and 3 tire irons: 2 pressing down on the outside of the tire about 6-8 inches apart ( angle them together and hold both with one hand) and the third levering millimeter by millimeter in the opposite direction in between the first two. You don't need to try to pop the whole thing off at once. You just need to move it little by little over the hump in the rim. Move it a little, and work a little more lube down into the wheel. It rarely takes me more than about ten minutes working in that one section of the tire to get the bead broken.

I also carefully scrub the black rubber residue out of the rim before I mount my new tire. I think that makes a difference in how hard it is to move the tire when you break the bead.

Also I try to work on warm tires if at all possible. I'll warm them by riding on them, setting them in the sun, leaning the wheel near my woodstove for awhile- anyway I can think of to soften up the rubber.

hope that helps some............shu
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Motion Pro Beadbreaker levers pack light and double as decent levers. I break 15" rear cruiser beads with almost 20K miles on them, no lube, in seconds. I also pack 2 t6 combo levers...24mm and 12mm/13mm. The DR's OEM toolkit has small levers too, with a 19mm and a 24mm wrench. I've actually used JUST the OEM toolkit to change a front tire. It works, but the Motion Pro levers are much nicer.
Either of you happen to have a GOPro or video cam to put your methods up on YouTube?
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:10 PM   #83109
cyberdos
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Joined: Sep 2005
Location: Queen Creek, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Either of you happen to have a GOPro or video cam to put your methods up on YouTube?
We had to change 18 flats over 2 days on the southern AZ ride a few weeks ago and another 5 flats last weekend on a local ride.

If I see another flat tire I may just have to shoot my screen.
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:52 PM   #83110
Red Herring
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Victopia BC
Oddometer: 151
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...t=larger+grips

Comfortable. Third bike with 'em, I'm never going back to skinny little grips made for Japanese girls. (The original grips are below the rope though)

Yes, I would pick another color - but I'm still trying to use up this cheap Home Depot rope I picked up, oh, about a decade ago. I'd use the same rope, but go for another color (which they didn't have when I needed it right before a camping & road trip years ago)
Bam! Thaks for the repost! Brilliant idea, and now on tomorrows to do list!!
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Old 10-29-2013, 04:57 AM   #83111
psmcd
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Location: foot of Olympus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
OK, OK, it's more that in general riding a good amount of the time the pressure is just down onto the grips from above. These rope grips spread the pressure, create channels for circulation, and just generally feel good. Cramping up hands to grip smaller grips, or even not gripping them but still having those two thin rails of pressure in the palm of the hands, just doesn't work for me.

But I ask you to consider this - many old-school larger diameter grips (like foam ones) would actually make your hands work out harder by trying to control through the 'mush' of the grips. Was that the case for your experience? Because, if so, the difference is that these very tightly would rope grips don't really have that much cushioning to grip through to gain control. The 'mush' just isn't there, but the comfort is.
Those old grips were soft and I know that was part of the problem. I have a paddle type grip that gives more surface for the palm on my bicycle. Think I'll give the rope a try this winter starting with smaller diameter rope. My riding is all loose grip, float like a butterfly, until it turns death grip wide eye.
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:04 AM   #83112
psmcd
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: foot of Olympus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
I prefer cord for venetian blinds or starter cord - it is about 1/8" diameter. The ends are (deliberately) frayed so that it lays flat when pulled under ~5 turns on the grips - use a loop of thin wire that is wound over to pull the end back under when finishing. Each turn is knotted with the knot under the second knuckle, others might prefer it in a different position or no knots at all and there is a smear of urethane under the cord.
Any chance you have a photo Numbers? Couldn't get your bike pages link to work.
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:35 AM   #83113
tlmaffucci
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Location: North Carolina
Oddometer: 254
I've never changed a tube on a motorcycle before. What is the basic process? Just so I'm not lost when I have to do it myself. Is it really as hard as y'all make it sound? Is this a good tool for the job?

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0519/

Should I also get a tire iron? Would this be sufficiant tools for the job.
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:44 AM   #83114
Foot dragger
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
Oddometer: 12,899
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Either of you happen to have a GOPro or video cam to put your methods up on YouTube?
Dave.......rope wrapped grips? I wear X-Large gloves due to freakishly long fingers.
I dont even like large-ish diameter grips as they make the bike feel clumsy.

How the hell do you hang on with grips that size? Ive never in 40 some years of riding seen grips wrapped with rope or even venetian blind twine.

Except yours of course.
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:46 AM   #83115
Foot dragger
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlmaffucci View Post
I've never changed a tube on a motorcycle before. What is the basic process? Just so I'm not lost when I have to do it myself. Is it really as hard as y'all make it sound? Is this a good tool for the job?

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0519/

Should I also get a tire iron? Would this be sufficiant tools for the job.
You may want to start with an ADV tire changing thread,all will be revealed. Its harder then some things on bikes.
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