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Old 10-28-2013, 09:07 PM   #2191
IBRiding
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Location: Queen Creek Az
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberdos View Post
Hey Bill, did you install your tool tube?

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=603514
Julio,

Thanks to you I did













I have extra material for the mount if you want me to make you one.


Bill
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:38 PM   #2192
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Nice. I may be in for the Mt Lemmon ride this Saturday.
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:01 PM   #2193
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Nice. I may be in for the Mt Lemmon ride this Saturday.
Great hope you can make it. The weather should be perfect. I sent you a couple emails thru ADV about the coke oven ride, did they do thru?


Later
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:57 PM   #2194
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Great hope you can make it. The weather should be perfect. I sent you a couple emails thru ADV about the coke oven ride, did they do thru?


Later
Bill
I hardly ever check that particular email. I hadn't one so in over a month. I got it. I'll respond shortly. If you need to contact me just send me a PM here or knock on my door.
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Old 10-31-2013, 08:36 AM   #2195
WJP4
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Dr-650

I know a few of you guys have or have had DR650s. I have been looking to get one and I'm going to look at a couple this weekend. Is there anything I should look out for on certain years? Any problems with things that were changed on newer ones? I've only heard of base gasket leaking, and a problem with third gear? Oh and one that had a wiring harness melt down. Any info appreciated. Wade
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Old 10-31-2013, 09:20 AM   #2196
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Wade,
Here's some info from Jesse at Kientech.
1998 and early '99 were equipped with a solid idler gear that created a problem when the engine kicked back during shutdown, breaking out the gear bearing bosses. '96 and '97 had the torque limiter gear that is designed to slip due to a preloaded slip clutch arrangement. They went back to this design in mid '99 after vin # X2100561.
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Old 10-31-2013, 09:36 AM   #2197
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Originally Posted by WJP4 View Post
I know a few of you guys have or have had DR650s. I have been looking to get one and I'm going to look at a couple this weekend. Is there anything I should look out for on certain years? Any problems with things that were changed on newer ones? I've only heard of base gasket leaking, and a problem with third gear? Oh and one that had a wiring harness melt down. Any info appreciated. Wade
I have one that is set up nicely and might be interested in selling. It's in perfect mechanical condition, just a few scratches. If interested let me know. It's a 2005 model.
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Old 10-31-2013, 09:57 AM   #2198
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Paul

Hey Paul,

How many miles were on your KLR when your pipe went out on the Toroweap trip?
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Old 10-31-2013, 10:41 AM   #2199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayHawk View Post
Wade,
Here's some info from Jesse at Kientech.
1998 and early '99 were equipped with a solid idler gear that created a problem when the engine kicked back during shutdown, breaking out the gear bearing bosses. '96 and '97 had the torque limiter gear that is designed to slip due to a preloaded slip clutch arrangement. They went back to this design in mid '99 after vin # X2100561.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 750Volts! View Post
Wade, I know very little about them other than Bill's bike is pretty light and easy to ride. From what I read the big change is 1996 anything earlier than that has more weight higher and less parts available aftermarket. Check this one out :
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/mcy/4158044982.html
Good luck. I bet you could shave 50lbs off of that thing too.
That's about all you really need to know about these DR's in terms of problems. 96+ are solid and have changed very little. The 98-99 idle gear problem was just for those years.

the only other issue is the NSU screws that can be easily fixed with some time and a little loctite. You'll have to do that on any bike you buy so it's really not an 'issue' to look for. More of a maintenance thing.
Same as the infamous leaky base gasket. Some years came with a paper gasket which wears easily and starts to weep. Easy cheap fix to throw a metal one and be done with it.

DR650's are solid bikes. Good luck with finding one.
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Old 10-31-2013, 05:36 PM   #2200
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Dr-650

Thanks for the input guys. I am looking at a 2008 In San Diego. It's 3500 But has all the stuff I would want already on. Might have to sell the WRR. or get my wife a second job.
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Old 10-31-2013, 06:29 PM   #2201
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Originally Posted by WJP4 View Post
Thanks for the input guys. I am looking at a 2008 In San Diego. It's 3500 But has all the stuff I would want already on. Might have to sell the WRR. or get my wife a second job.
May be interested in seeing your WRR if you decide to sell. I have tried that 2nd wife with a job...no meant to say 2nd job for wife thing...
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Old 10-31-2013, 08:19 PM   #2202
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Batman, My KLR had approximately 46k miles on it when the cat started to break up and clog the pipes. The engine was replaced with a 8k mile 1998 engine right before I bought it but he left all of the original attachments on like carb, muffler, starter, etc. Thing is I could have cleared the pieces and welded it back up. My guess is that this could happen anytime it lands real hard on the cat or it becomes submerged in water while hot. These are lessons I learned while piloting my submarine, um I mean Jeep Wrangler.
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Old 10-31-2013, 08:30 PM   #2203
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Originally Posted by 750Volts! View Post
Batman, My KLR had approximately 46k miles on it when the cat started to break up and clog the pipes. The engine was replaced with a 8k mile 1998 engine right before I bought it but he left all of the original attachments on like carb, muffler, starter, etc. Thing is I could have cleared the pieces and welded it back up. My guess is that this could happen anytime it lands real hard on the cat or it becomes submerged in water while hot. These are lessons I learned while piloting my submarine, um I mean Jeep Wrangler.
Good to know. I just passed up 30,000 miles on mine. How often do you do the valve adjustments? I've heard a lot of mixed reviews on how often you should check them. Everything from you don't to you need to check them every several thousand miles. My plan has been to check it every 15,000 miles. At 15k I took it to ride now and they said that the valve's were in spec. I've been debating whether I should have someone check them for me or do them myself.
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Old 10-31-2013, 10:06 PM   #2204
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I have never checked the valves on mine. I get 55 MPG on nearly every tank. I have never heard any valve train noise. (Not that I could hear it now with the aftermarket muffler) My bike has more power than ever before. I believe that gas mileage is a real serious indicator of whether the valves are within specs or not. I think if my gas mileage dropped below 50 MPG for say two or three tank fulls (and I wasn't getting gas in say Utah or Mexico) I would check the valves. With the stock exhaust you should be able to hear some valve chatter at hard acceleration.
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Old 10-31-2013, 10:51 PM   #2205
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Brought the Ural back home today... She is still sick. They are unable to get the carbs tuned in right (especially the left one). Apparently she has a delicate constitution. So now I have ordered 2 new carburetors. Going to take her for a spin Saturday and I would love to meet you guys on mt. Lemon but the Ural is going to stay close to home until she gets over her indigestion.

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