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Old 11-02-2013, 07:13 AM   #19036
simbaboy
Lansing MBS
 
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Lansing, MI
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installing the Acerbis today

Its cold and drizzly.
Planning to install the Acerbis on my 97 DR350SE.
Any last minute hints?
Thanks
Simba
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Old 11-02-2013, 07:23 AM   #19037
veriest1
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Central Tejas
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Run the right side fuel line behind the carb. It seems to work best that way. It's not ideal but it mostly gets the job done and is better than just leaving it off.

You can get a brass T fitting at Lowes if you need it.

Other than that I think it's pretty straight forward.

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Old 11-02-2013, 07:35 AM   #19038
thump!
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Location: Northeast Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
I had the header and mid pipe on my Transalp ceramic coated.
Nice. Who did that for you and what did it cost?
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Old 11-02-2013, 07:39 AM   #19039
thump!
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Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Saw this today. Always thought that having pluggable holes would be a good alternative to the 3x3" 4x4" hole in the top. The plugs would be good for elevation mixture tuning. Not sure about the execution just the first time I have seen thing done.
Apparently you don't do water crossings???
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Old 11-02-2013, 07:55 AM   #19040
markk900
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simbaboy View Post
Its cold and drizzly.
Planning to install the Acerbis on my 97 DR350SE.
Any last minute hints?
I ran my right side line in front of the carb, but I found it helpful to use loose tie wraps to tension the right side line to keep it from either drooping too close to the head pipe or flopping over against the head.



veriest1 gives good advice. I had also heard you can get that loose spring wire wrap (for preventing kinks) and use it as a heat shield on the right side.
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Old 11-02-2013, 08:38 AM   #19041
Anonawesome
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Location: Central OH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
Apparently you don't do water crossings???
+1 It's up on top for a reason. That's why I won't even to the 3x3 or whatever mod. I enjoy the insurance of the raised snorkel.
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Old 11-02-2013, 08:49 AM   #19042
vmcrcr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
I ran my right side line in front of the carb, but I found it helpful to use loose tie wraps to tension the right side line to keep it from either drooping too close to the head pipe or flopping over against the head.



veriest1 gives good advice. I had also heard you can get that loose spring wire wrap (for preventing kinks) and use it as a heat shield on the right side.
Speaking of Acerbis, anyone have a 4.2gal tank to fit a 1993 S model? I am under the impression that the Clarke tanks are dirt model only, but having looked at how they mount I could make one of those work as well. What I'm willing to spend will depend on the condition of the tank.
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Old 11-02-2013, 09:00 AM   #19043
Anonawesome
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vmcrcr View Post
Speaking of Acerbis, anyone have a 4.2gal tank to fit a 1993 S model? I am under the impression that the Clarke tanks are dirt model only, but having looked at how they mount I could make one of those work as well. What I'm willing to spend will depend on the condition of the tank.
Acerbis's are 4.2. I can't speak of the Clarke tanks, but I doubt that's the case.
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Old 11-02-2013, 09:56 AM   #19044
vmcrcr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anonawesome View Post
Acerbis's are 4.2. I can't speak of the Clarke tanks, but I doubt that's the case.
Just looking for more capacity than the stock tank. Having to fuel the bike 2-3 times a week during the summer when you don't pass any on the commute to work is a hassle.
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Old 11-02-2013, 10:26 AM   #19045
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vmcrcr View Post
Speaking of Acerbis, anyone have a 4.2gal tank to fit a 1993 S model? I am under the impression that the Clarke tanks are dirt model only, but having looked at how they mount I could make one of those work as well. What I'm willing to spend will depend on the condition of the tank.
Clarke makes tanks specific to either the dirt model or the street model. The Clarke dirt model tank will not fit the street model DR350. Likewise the Clarke street model tank will not fit the dirt model DR350.

If anyone wants a Clark tank for a dirt model, let me know as mine is still for sale (along with some other parts):
http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/f...arts_dr350.htm

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 11-02-2013, 12:02 PM   #19046
Anonawesome
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vmcrcr View Post
Just looking for more capacity than the stock tank. Having to fuel the bike 2-3 times a week during the summer when you don't pass any on the commute to work is a hassle.
Oh yeah, try 1200 miles while filling up every 50-60. I know how that feels.
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Old 11-02-2013, 02:20 PM   #19047
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Clarke makes tanks specific to either the dirt model or the street model. The Clarke dirt model tank will not fit the street model DR350. Likewise the Clarke street model tank will not fit the dirt model DR350.

If anyone wants a Clark tank for a dirt model, let me know as mine is still for sale (along with some other parts):
http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/f...arts_dr350.htm

Regards,

Gregory Bender
It's possible to adapt an S or SE frame to use a plastic offroad tank but a bit of welding is required. I've done 3 or 4 of them. To do so one must add a "bung" to the frame for the front attachment points like so:

And one needs the rear attachment bracket from the offroad model:


It's also necessary to cant the BST33 CV carb slightly so that the linkage clears. The TM33 linkage clears without a problem.
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Old 11-02-2013, 03:37 PM   #19048
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
It's possible to adapt an S or SE frame to use a plastic offroad tank but a bit of welding is required. I've done 3 or 4 of them.
Sorry. I did not mean to imply that one could not be adapted to another, only that they are not bolt on interchangeable from Clarke.

Glad you've had good success adapting them.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 11-02-2013, 03:46 PM   #19049
2bold2getold
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Originally Posted by thump! View Post
Nice. Who did that for you and what did it cost?
http://www.spcoating.com/Ceramic.html ....The place is a couple of blocks from my house. A small two man operation. I think they charged $15/ft. The header and mid pipe was ~ $100 inside and out, which I thought was a fair price. I don't know if they do mail order(there might be someone in your area), but if they don't, and you want something coated, send it to me and I'll get it done for you.
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Old 11-02-2013, 03:49 PM   #19050
simbaboy
Lansing MBS
 
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Location: Lansing, MI
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installed LED rear turn signals

with stock flasher and everything works fine. I think its the stock flasher.

Now, after the football game here (MSU vs. Michigan) will tackle the Acerbis.
It seems on dry fit the new tank does not want to sit on the 'round rubber tank mounts' on either side well. But if I take those rubber mounts off its easy. I may just need to use a little force to get the new tank to slide in there.

I will try to take pictures as I go along so i can do a little write up. I am planning to use only the stuff that came with the tank. The instructions were pathetic, but I think its supposed to be very easy.

Thank for all your suggestions so far,
Simba
Go State.
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