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Old 11-01-2013, 05:16 PM   #11851
Roostre
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Joined: Feb 2006
Location: SL, UT
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Footpegs

I have ran the CJdesigns for a few years. Its like having power steering!


http://www.cjdesignsllc.com/products...peg-extension/
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Old 11-01-2013, 05:38 PM   #11852
rdkyote
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Joined: May 2012
Location: Colorado
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Anybody up for renting their KTM cable so I can remap. I have a 2012 with the akra can and am too lazy to take it down to the dealer. Or.... if you're in n. colorado and are competent enough to remap my bike for a case of beer let me know.
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Old 11-01-2013, 06:32 PM   #11853
DirtJack
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Night Falcon View Post
I am looking at replacing my already replaced speedo (under warranty) on my 09 as the digital display is failing. Been looking at theses : http://www.trailtech.net/digital-gauges/vapor They don't have one listed to fit the 690 but I emailed Trailtech and they said they could probably get one to fit. I wanted one with a rev counter which the enduro type ones don't have. Not sure how the fault codes work though....more investigation needed.
Here's how to do the Vapor installation Maurizio's way He used a Vector, but the installation would be virtually the same except for the tach input which is easy to do.
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Old 11-01-2013, 09:56 PM   #11854
Night Falcon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtJack View Post
Here's how to do the Vapor installation Maurizio's way He used a Vector, but the installation would be virtually the same except for the tach input which is easy to do.
Cheers DJ
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Old 11-01-2013, 11:31 PM   #11855
RoninMoto
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Joined: May 2010
Location: Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by .chris View Post
Just whipped the rocker cover off and it appears everything is still there (phew).
But the decompression shaft did side out as I took the cover off (possibly because the bike is on its side-stand. Would that be normal?
No, this is not normal. The shaft should not slide out.. it should be held in place by the copper clip. If it slides out, it won't engage.. making it nearly impossible for the starter motor to turn your bike over.




You need to slide the cam out like you would if you were changing your valve shims in order to get at the copper clip. Hopefully it will still be on the top of your motor somewhere. When this happened to me, the clip stayed on the shaft but was pushed toward the lobe of the cam shaft. So it was not doing its job retaining the shaft, but it did not fall in the engine.


You can see where the shaft contacted my valve cover.


The worn out clip. Luckily it stayed on the shaft.

I would recommend replacing the weight, spring, screw and clip. They are cheap parts and it will hopefully save this from happening again. Any slop in the weight will eat through the clip.
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Old 11-02-2013, 02:14 AM   #11856
.chris
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Location: Auckland, NZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
No, this is not normal. The shaft should not slide out.. it should be held in place by the copper clip. If it slides out, it won't engage.. making it nearly impossible for the starter motor to turn your bike over.




You need to slide the cam out like you would if you were changing your valve shims in order to get at the copper clip. Hopefully it will still be on the top of your motor somewhere. When this happened to me, the clip stayed on the shaft but was pushed toward the lobe of the cam shaft. So it was not doing its job retaining the shaft, but it did not fall in the engine.


You can see where the shaft contacted my valve cover.

The worn out clip. Luckily it stayed on the shaft.

I would recommend replacing the weight, spring, screw and clip. They are cheap parts and it will hopefully save this from happening again. Any slop in the weight will eat through the clip.
Thanks, I think that is EXACTLY the problem, I will have a search for that pin tomorrow. And will order the replacements on Monday.
My rocker cover has the exact same marks on it.
EDIT: Found the clip, and promptly dropped it onto my messy floor and lost it, but one side of the clip was visibly worn.

Thanks everyone for your assistance.
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Old 11-02-2013, 05:39 AM   #11857
sprouty115
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So Chris had this issue with 65,000 Km. Noah, do remember the approximate mileage when you had the problem? just curious if it was around the same time.
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Old 11-02-2013, 08:36 AM   #11858
Velociraptor
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I just ordered some decompression parts. Not that expensive and good to have spares around just in case.

Uller, your airbox mods are nice. I have not done those, but I just left the front bolts off. So the airbox is secured by the two back bolts and the rubber boot connecting to the throttle body. So far so good after two years.

I am also running the RR EVO2 tanks so a different setup to yours. The RR tank kit comes with a small plastic vent box that fits into the right side of the frame. So the airbox still vents to that box. Also I made a SAS blockoff plate for the valve cover but kept the vent open and also routed that hose to the vent box.
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Old 11-02-2013, 08:45 AM   #11859
dad2bike
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Uller-
I have the same safari tank setup. I was considering doing your airbox mod.
What are the major benefits to that? Is it just for quick access to the injector?
Can you now do a valve check with the tank on?
I figure after all the work of pulling the Safari tank, a few more bolts isn't much more.

Also- Did you ditch all the plastic covers and just move the stock regulator to the left side?
I was considering a little clean up of all that plastic as well.
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Old 11-02-2013, 11:09 AM   #11860
Katoom72
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Belgium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprouty115 View Post
So Chris had this issue with 65,000 Km. Noah, do remember the approximate mileage when you had the problem? just curious if it was around the same time.
Think im gonna replace the clip every valve check. New copper clip every 10k ain't costly, it's a rather cheap but safe thing to do.
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Old 11-02-2013, 01:05 PM   #11861
Uller
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Arlington, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velociraptor View Post
Uller, your airbox mods are nice. I have not done those, but I just left the front bolts off. So the airbox is secured by the two back bolts and the rubber boot connecting to the throttle body. So far so good after two years.

I am also running the RR EVO2 tanks so a different setup to yours. The RR tank kit comes with a small plastic vent box that fits into the right side of the frame. So the airbox still vents to that box. Also I made a SAS blockoff plate for the valve cover but kept the vent open and also routed that hose to the vent box.
It is good to know that the front of the airbox doesn't drop if left unsecured. I guess that makes my mod overkill. I like that.

I haven't seen the EVO2 collector box.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
Uller-
I have the same safari tank setup. I was considering doing your airbox mod.
What are the major benefits to that? Is it just for quick access to the injector?
Can you now do a valve check with the tank on?
I figure after all the work of pulling the Safari tank, a few more bolts isn't much more.

Also- Did you ditch all the plastic covers and just move the stock regulator to the left side?
I was considering a little clean up of all that plastic as well.
Ultimately, this allows me to work on the bike much easier when I am away. When I check things, change the oil, look at valves back at my shop I tend to take the tank off. It just makes it easier to access everything. Isn't that why the trellis frame is so cool.

I can think of a few benefits. Most of them are for when you are away from the shop and removing the tank would be a major time consumer that you don't want to deal with. Without doing this mod, you have to remove the tank entirely to get to the two front airbox screws to get the airbox out and access anything. So, not only are you lying on the ground to get to the tank bolts but you are also fiddling with the fuel lines. In a best case scenario, that is probably 10 to 15 minutes of work to take off, then that time again to put back on.

Possible Benefits:
1. I have externalized my fuel filter. I can now access it very easily by removing only two screws and loosening the air box boot, as it now is directly below the airbox once that is out.
2. Should I have any issues with the fuel injector, I can now easily access that too. Or really any running issues for that matter. I can access air, fuel and spark without removing the tank.
3. Should I have issues with the spark plug, I can access it without removing the tank.
4. Should I have a problem with a water crossing, everything I need to get to in order to drain water and get the bike going again is now accessible with only removing the airbox. (knock-knock-knock)
5. If I have an electrical problem, I can just about get to all critical areas without removing the tank.

I believe, if you really wanted to, you could get to the head and check the valves without taking the tank off with the airbox removed and the Safari Tank still on. However, I would think that you would appreciate the additional access provided by not having the tank there for that operation. Especially, if you are one of those people who always uses a torque wrench for reinstalling motor components.

Edit: I went out and took a look, the back left head bolt would be a tuff one to get undone without a double-articulating socket adapter. Other than that, you have good access to the top of the motor, the only limitation is if you need to get into the side of it for installing a locking bolt or pulling the rockers. Thinking of that, it would block the ability to see the TDC markings and line things up properly. Maybe you could do that with a mirror???

Regarding the side covers and R/R, I had my stock R/R fail on me and fry my brand new lithium battery. I replaced it with an aftermarket unit that is much, much better. Even though the R/R itself is the same overall size and bolt pattern, it has sealed connectors on the bottom and the wire sides of those contact the coil in the stock location. I have the tank and don't need the side panels to hold on the plastics. I also removed the collector box on the R side so, I don't need them anymore. It was just extra stuff in the way. I came up with the super simple mounting method on the left side for the R/R. It fits perfectly under the tank with optimal airflow, almost like it was supposed to be like this. I then simplified the wiring and have the R/R directly connected to the battery instead of running through the Starter Relay.

I am not really sure if you could do this without changing the R/R due to the configuration of the stock wiring harness going from the L side of the bike to the R.
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Old 11-02-2013, 02:01 PM   #11862
dad2bike
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Great info. Thanks Brad!
I can see me cutting those tabs at some future time. Maybe at the next valve check. I've never done the task myself. The PO did them just about 1K miles before I bought the bike. I'm thinking in the next few weeks I'll tear into the valves on my 950 & the 690. I have the Hot Cams kit that should cover both bikes.
I too have my fuel filter external. I mounted it up where I can replace all from the outside.

It was your post that has me thinking about the oil catch canister as a possible path for dust into my air box. I've sealed up all box seams with RTV. If I ditch the catch tank for a simple filter it removes that possible issue. A bunch of hoses too.
UNI has a nice little foam filter with clamp that will fit right over the hose end. I picked one up to use on my Dodge diesel drip hose.
Ditching the plastics & catch tank will help with cleaning up on top of the motor. We don't seem to get much wash hose water up there and it is always covered in crust.
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Old 11-02-2013, 02:06 PM   #11863
dad2bike
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How often are you guys changing spark plugs? I'm figuring to order one in and do that when I do my valve check. I think the PO did that about 3000 miles ago.
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Old 11-02-2013, 03:36 PM   #11864
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
How often are you guys changing spark plugs? I'm figuring to order one in and do that when I do my valve check. I think the PO did that about 3000 miles ago.
I think I put one in around mile 7500 and the old one still looked good.
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Old 11-02-2013, 08:26 PM   #11865
Singletrack_mind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
How often are you guys changing spark plugs? I'm figuring to order one in and do that when I do my valve check. I think the PO did that about 3000 miles ago.


Save your self $20 and don't worry about it until closer to 10K miles
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