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Old 11-05-2013, 06:15 PM   #2266
RedRocker
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My CJ-7 had a T5, NP435 and NV4500 over the 24 years that I owned it. Liked the NV4500 the best, the 435 was good off road, but kind of sucked on the highway.
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Old 11-05-2013, 06:46 PM   #2267
Mambo Dave
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What I really want: CJ7

What, with thanks to all you gentlemen who gave me great advice - most of which I didn't follow because I was tired of looking, because I found something seemingly OK, and found a white one - I ended up with was a 1991.

Or... I gave the two guys a check to cash tomorrow, having a receipt here for it - but left the Jeep in Miami until Thursday.

So I'm trusting them with the check.

Trusting two guys from Miami - you know I'm not right.

Anyway, am I happy? I guess I am. It's like you all said - just wait for the one that either has what you want, or doesn't have what you don't want. It doesn't have much, but I can see that most of the tie rod ends have grease fittings. I don't know what Jeep / Chrysler used then, but in 1999 Ford used sealed components, so grease fittings point toward items being replaced with at least somewhat better gear.

Replacement 5 speed transmission put in by the owner just because he knew the last one was dripping, but never filled it up. This one is a replacement from some other Jeep, so here's hoping it's the AT-15 still. I got under it, and it looked like it. It had a replacement fuel pump, but this cheap version drove the current owner nuts that one would hear it initially on start-up (I guess when just clicking the key over), so he dropped the tank and put in an actual new Chrysler one for the peace and quiet.

(Long story ... longer ... he claims that he is a body guy that charges people money to fully check out high end and regular vehicles that they are considering buying. He was paid to check this Jeep out, then the guy bought it. That guy owned it for a while, but then sold it to this body guy since the body guy wanted to have a Jeep project all his own - but business issues got in the way.)

The owner is a body guy, and this was to be his project Jeep (really rust free). But he had to close his shop to move it, and wants the start-up money for the new store. Also has a 1990 Saleen Mustang that's in perfect condition, and the buddy who was driving to Jeep to work to let people see it was for sale drives some other high-end 1991 Mustang, so they are car guys.

Coming with it:
  • bikini top
  • soft top
  • attachable mirrors for taking doors off
  • doors
  • spare wheel/tire
  • AC that works
  • A new seal that goes between the windshield and body (old one is dry rotted)
  • new bushings for the windshield wiper connector arms

It ran strongly. Surprisingly so for a 188k mile motor.

Clutch was newer when he traded trannies, so he didn't replace it again. Drove straight, 5th gear works too well (meaning it is geared too high... I was hoping for a lower-geared Jeep, but this thing seems like 75 MPH will be no problem for it).

Transfer case works, but I have no idea if that thing that engages the front axle really is working. Does anyone have a link to the pieces or kit to replace it with something better?

Anyway here it is: http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/cto/4153073590.html



I wrote a check for $3500, not the $4500 that they were initially asking.

For comparison, this $3500 one is advertised in mid-florida: http://spacecoast.craigslist.org/ctd/4152855413.html (Edit: OMFG, how did I miss this great one?! http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/cto/4167080923.html - look for the interior pictures!)



Holy hell - another one... I thought I liked tall/skinny tires, but this is crazy: http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/cto/4145908077.html



(Just as I was headed out the door to see the one I bought, this guy called my phone and tempted me with a CJ7: http://lakeland.craigslist.org/cto/4155495656.html )

Is it the end-all, be-all in Jeeps? No.

Is it close to what I imagined I wanted (initially, before finding out about the CJ7)? Actually, yes. To get working AC on it... well, buddy, could I really ask for more? (I admit I didn't check to see if this one had a heater core, lol).

Again, guys, thanks so much for answering what I needed answered. It was all tentative based one what was coming available locally. The bonus here, if they don't run off with my money, is that they're going to meet me at a Tri-Rail station (kidna like an above-ground subway... I've only ever been on it once - to go north all the way - to meet people to buy a motorcycle to ride home) on Thursday. Then I can just drive home with it.
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:01 PM   #2268
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Mambo Dave, If you really want a CJ-7, you can easily bolt on the CJ-7 Hood, Fenders and Grill.

The rear flares are obviously different but I think it's still a good look
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:09 PM   #2269
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dukeryder View Post
Mambo Dave, If you really want a CJ-7, you can easily bolt on the CJ-7 Hood, Fenders and Grill.

The rear flares are obviously different but I think it's still a good look
Thank you. I know I can, now, but short term is just mechanical & safety. (Anyone have seat belt & mechanism recommendation? Or do I have to go factory for those? I just want standard belts, but I see the ones On the Jeep I'm buying are worn and sun damaged)

Mid-term - what I see... swap the dash out for a CJ7 dash, or create something more pleasing.

One of the last things would be the CJ7 front.
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:20 PM   #2270
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I picked up a used one on eBay for about $40, but Quadratec and a few other places sell bolt in replacements for about $125 a set.
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:28 PM   #2271
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
(Just as I was headed out the door to see the one I bought, this guy called my phone and tempted me with a CJ7: http://lakeland.craigslist.org/cto/4155495656.html )
If you want a CJ7, which it seems you do, just get the CJ. That CJ doesn't look bad at all. After the cost of swapping the front clip and dash, you'd probably be better off with a CJ.
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:33 PM   #2272
longtallsally
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Mambo, you got the winner of all that you listed there, IMO.

You'll have a couple little things here and there and it looks like it's missing some trim for the corners for the soft top, but I'd say you got a great survivor for a great price. 188k on the 4.0 really isn't much, so I'd not be concerned there.

The best part is that you've now got a nice stock platform to make your own. Congrats. Don't look back, you dun good regardless and I don't think could have done much better.

Change all the fluids, flush the coolant, be ready for a couple wheel cylinders in the back, get the grease gun out for the tie rod and drag link (and maybe driveshafts, I can't remember) and I bet that thing will be like new. You may need springs- look for "S" in the rears in particular, but that thing really looks ready to rock.
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:35 PM   #2273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffy View Post
If you want a CJ7, which it seems you do, just get the CJ. That CJ doesn't look bad at all. After the cost of swapping the front clip and dash, you'd probably be better off with a CJ.
Too late now, plus this one has what seems to be just as strong of a body.

And... the 'how am I going to get to it' part, considering that Thursdays are my day off when no-one else's is, is solved.

Quote:
I picked up a used one on eBay for about $40, but Quadratec and a few other places sell bolt in replacements for about $125 a set.
But what is that part called? I don't even know what to look up, lol.
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:42 PM   #2274
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Originally Posted by longtallsally View Post
Change all the fluids, flush the coolant, be ready for a couple wheel cylinders in the back, get the grease gun out for the tie rod and drag link (and maybe driveshafts, I can't remember) and I bet that thing will be like new. You may need springs- look for "S" in the rears in particular, but that thing really looks ready to rock.
Thanks, brother.

I may just change out the springs. I'm one of those guys who change the parts that most owners don't just to have what I consider a nice to drive vehicle (note - my vehicles don't have to look nice, they have to drive nice). That would be springs, brakes to work like new or better than new, and stuff like that. So I will look at the springs, and probably change them out with some inexpensive kit that can raise it 2" or so. I don't want even 33" tires on it (yet? I feel the gearing is off... could very well be 3.07 gears in the axles from what I felt), but it sort of makes sense to buy the springs first, then the tires.

Anyone have a brake pad make/model they feel is a real stopper for the street?

And eventually I'll need a hitch. Found plenty of spare wheel carriers that have hitches, but this one seems cheap: http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-06-Jeep-Y...-/180728375150
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Old 11-05-2013, 10:03 PM   #2275
longtallsally
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Thanks, brother.

I may just change out the springs. I'm one of those guys who change the parts that most owners don't just to have what I consider a nice to drive vehicle (note - my vehicles don't have to look nice, they have to drive nice). That would be springs, brakes to work like new or better than new, and stuff like that. So I will look at the springs, and probably change them out with some inexpensive kit that can raise it 2" or so. I don't want even 33" tires on it (yet? I feel the gearing is off... could very well be 3.07 gears in the axles from what I felt), but it sort of makes sense to buy the springs first, then the tires.

Anyone have a brake pad make/model they feel is a real stopper for the street?

And eventually I'll need a hitch. Found plenty of spare wheel carriers that have hitches, but this one seems cheap: http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-06-Jeep-Y...-/180728375150
If you want to make it drive nice, I'd go over the the steering components really well and check for play in the spindles and make sure the front hubs are in good shape. Also, good motor mounts and the mount from the tranny to the skid plate/cross member will keep it tight.

When you change the diff fluid, you should remove the covers and at that time you can either look on the ring gear, or count the teeth and determine what you've got. I suspect by now the axle ID plate is long gone, but it might be there.

I'm worthless on brakes for these things as my knowledge is from racing which is no good here. I'd just get a decent set of whatever pads from the local parts place as it ain't a Ferrari.

As for hitches, you can go mild to wild. etrailer.com I think has some decent cheapo stuff, but depending on how serious you get, you might want a new bumper with a swing out tire carrier and hitch integrated. Depends really on your goals and budget. I'd wait to sort out the other maintenance stuff prior to touching springs or a hitch, but that's me.

They're stupid simple and once you work on them a bit, you appreciate that simplicity and then the slippery slope of modification comes in...
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Old 11-05-2013, 10:04 PM   #2276
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Thanks, brother.

I may just change out the springs. I'm one of those guys who change the parts that most owners don't just to have what I consider a nice to drive vehicle (note - my vehicles don't have to look nice, they have to drive nice). That would be springs, brakes to work like new or better than new, and stuff like that. So I will look at the springs, and probably change them out with some inexpensive kit that can raise it 2" or so. I don't want even 33" tires on it (yet? I feel the gearing is off... could very well be 3.07 gears in the axles from what I felt), but it sort of makes sense to buy the springs first, then the tires.

Anyone have a brake pad make/model they feel is a real stopper for the street?

And eventually I'll need a hitch. Found plenty of spare wheel carriers that have hitches, but this one seems cheap: http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-06-Jeep-Y...-/180728375150
I'd buy some OME 2.5" leafs. They're the best off the shelf leafs you can buy. ($100 x4) I'd probably get all four corners the same if you're going to add bumpers winches and a bunch of other stuff. Then get some shocks and a Tcase drop or better yet spend the $400-500 and get a SYE and a CV driveshaft. For gearing, I think it would be better to find a 2.5L in a JunkYard/forum/craigslist and swap axles. The 2.5L manuals have 4.10's and the cost of a gear change will be more then salvage axles. Look at the diffs and there should be a tag with the gear ratio. 3.07's were more likely with an auto. 3.55 are probably more common. I forget when 3.73's were introduced but that's the lowest you could go. I'd recommend going to 31's instead of 33's just to not have to regear.

Oh brakes. I run Hawk HPS's. They're way better then the stock ones. I went ahead and replaced the discs as you can get wagner discs for dirt cheap. Can't help on the rears since I have a D44.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 11-05-2013, 10:11 PM   #2277
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
But what is that part called? I don't even know what to look up, lol.
I searched ebaymotors for "YJ seat belt" or get a new one from http://www.quadratec.com/products/24247_40X_PG.htm

When you get lift springs go for either "Old Man Emu" or "BDS", you'll need to get more than just springs though: shocks, bushings, u-bolts and maybe shackles. You see some Superlift or Rough Country springs for way cheaper than anything else but don't be fooled those things ride like shit. I have BDS and couldn't be happier with the ride 10x better than the superlift that came on my CJ5.

I'm Running 33s with Currie Boomerang shackles and the BDS 2" lift springs. I did have to trim the fender flares and I needed to run some 3.75" Back Spaced wheels. Most of the published stuff says you'll need 4" of lift for 33s, but with the 2.5" lift you maintain a lower CG.
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Old 11-05-2013, 10:14 PM   #2278
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I searched ebaymotors for "YJ seat belt" or get a new one from http://www.quadratec.com/products/24247_40X_PG.htm

When you get lift springs go for either "Old Man Emu" or "BDS", you'll need to get more than just springs though: shocks, bushings, u-bolts and maybe shackles. You see some Superlift or Rough Country springs for way cheaper than anything else but don't be fooled those things ride like shit. I have BDS and couldn't be happier with the ride 10x better than the superlift that came on my CJ5.

I'm Running 33s with Currie Boomerang shackles and the BDS 2" lift springs. I did have to trim the fender flares and I needed to run some 3.75" Back Spaced wheels. Most of the published stuff says you'll need 4" of lift for 33s, but with the 2.5" lift you maintain a lower CG.
I wouldn't recommend getting the OME "kit" though. It's way overpriced. If you piece meal it and get the leafs, shocks, U-bolts, etc... separately then you'll save a lot.

OP keep in mind that 3.75" BS will push a 33x12.5R15 tire about 4" past the stock flares though.
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Old 11-05-2013, 10:15 PM   #2279
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Oh yeah, the alignment. From the factory, it was towed out for stability. When you go to larger tires you can sometimes get a death wobble at certain speeds. Simply get the toe taken out so they just point forward, and you're golden.

On gears, I disagree with Jeffy. Wait till you decide the size you want and get a new R&P set to match the size. Setting the preload and backlash isn't that hard- just time consuming. When I did mine, I got lucky and got within spec on the first try, but I was pretty nuts about measuring prior.
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Old 11-05-2013, 10:20 PM   #2280
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Oh yeah, the alignment. From the factory, it was towed out for stability. When you go to larger tires you can sometimes get a death wobble at certain speeds. Simply get the toe taken out so they just point forward, and you're golden.

On gears, I disagree with Jeffy. Wait till you decide the size you want and get a new R&P set to match the size. Setting the preload and backlash isn't that hard- just time consuming. When I did mine, I got lucky and got within spec on the first try, but I was pretty nuts about measuring prior.
If he's doing is own then I'd say go with new stuff. If he's not then it's probably going to get expensive, especially in a place where most people just don't bother. For 33's 4.10's would be fine and a lot cheaper since you can usually get stock axles for $2-300.
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