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Old 11-06-2013, 12:44 PM   #61
squawk77 OP
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Well, that is stunning Greetings from Bosnian
Thanks It's great how international this forum is
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Old 11-06-2013, 12:58 PM   #62
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Sutjeska National Park

If you make it to Sutjeska National Park and check out these same trails, you can also find nearby Trnovačko Lake and hike to the top of Maglić peak with proper footwear. "Trnovačko Lake is a glacial lake at an elevation of 1,500 metres set amidst a huge amphitheater of rocky peaks"

Trnovačko Lake 43°15′6″ N, 18°43′36″ E

source Wikipedia

Maglić Mountain

source www.takeadventure.com
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Old 01-02-2014, 06:41 AM   #63
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Stranded

Back in Foča I’m quickly invited in for dinner and to worry about bike later. The house smells like fresh baking and all the herbs and spices collected from the hills. It's a small house on the river with vegetable garden I'm told the family traded for with a house in Sarajevo. The local cuisine cooked from scratch with all fresh local ingredients is something you can only dream to experience on these trips. Vojo's (sp) wife and kids live in Toronto while his mother and grandmother stay here. The grandmother grew up in the mountains we explored today. It's an interesting glimpse into a different way of living, and it's great to discuss with someone who knows where I come from as well. I was surprised to see a Bombardier 1000 Summit in the garage, very similar to my old 800 X Rev Renegade!

The next day was Sunday so there wasn't much I could do about the shifter. After charging hard all the way down here through cloudy wet weather I kind of enjoyed a leisurely change of pace. It was killing me a bit though to sit around in the sun knowing I could be riding the scenic valleys of Montenegro by now. The night before I ended up in the only club in town as the bouncer was one of the riders met that day. On Sunday everyone leisurely meets up at their favourite café while all the local students are walking around town. Nikola, the younger rider with the Honda Dominator, shows me around for the day. It's interesting that everyone is always waving and often stop to chat in the middle of the street. Nikola's mother cooked us a great meal that evening and then we sat along the river drinking local brews.

Monday morning we meet up at the same café like clockwork. I’m fortunate to have them speak to the BMW dealers for me but it doesn't look good. It could take weeks to get the parts. BMW roadside assistance can tow the bike to a dealer but they don’t seem to help locate or ship any parts. I didn't really like to idea of sitting in a crowded city waiting on parts, so I gave myself the day to think of any other option. Now what's interesting is that Monday in Foča is pretty much the same as Sunday. Everyone is leisurely walking around or hanging out in the many cafés. The work-life balance thing is the opposite of what I’m used to. Everyone is waving and talking in the streets as usual. What's more interesting, is that after a few days in the cafés I can no longer walk very far myself without recognizing people and waving or chatting as well.
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Old 01-03-2014, 04:23 AM   #64
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YouTube to the Rescue

When I first had trouble shifting, the mechanic with us mentioned a 650GS had a similar problem from a bent fork inside. I googled it that night and sure enough it is a known problem with the 650 and 800. Most people simply replace the part.. as I would have done if I could get one in the Balkans fast enough. The next day we tried to tap it back into place without opening up the clutch cover with no luck. Monday night in the bar, Nikola asked if I tried looking on YouTube yet. Why not. I fix just about everything nowadays at home with YouTube DIY vids, but I hadn't looked yet. Sure enough, when professionals say it will take weeks, someone on YouTube will show you how it's done in 5 minutes or less with only a hammer. So the next morning we met the local mechanic from the first page, and the rest is history. Wednesday I would be on my way!

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Old 01-03-2014, 06:06 AM   #65
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Before packing a thing I hop on the bike and rip back to the memorial to catch it with the morning mist rising from the valley below. I've been to many memorials and this is truly something else. It's a powerful sight. Then rip back to the restaurant for a great homestyle breakfast and Turkish coffee.
Wish I'd been as wise as you.
I had spent a very similar night camping at a restaurant in the area about a week later and I thought visiting the memorial in the fog wouldn't be that exciting ... should have gone back, too.
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Old 01-03-2014, 10:46 AM   #66
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Durmitor

Bright and early I'm off along the misty Drina river valley. The border crossing is a very small bridge over the river and I'm quickly waved into Montenegro as fast as I can whip out the passport and green card. The Piva canyon is very picturesque and so is the ride up into Durmitor National Park. There are an unbelievable amount of short tunnels, including tunnels with switchbacks and intersections! I stopped at a hut on the mountains for some local snacks and a Turkish coffee. Feels great to be back on the road and it happens to be a beautiful one.





Bridge into Montenegro




Piva Canyon






One of many switchbacks in the tunnels






Durmitor










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Old 01-03-2014, 10:48 AM   #67
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I had spent a very similar night camping at a restaurant in the area about a week later and I thought visiting the memorial in the fog wouldn't be that exciting ... should have gone back, too.
Some of these pictures will probably look very familiar to you then
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Old 01-03-2014, 11:43 AM   #68
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Some of these pictures will probably look very familiar to you then
Yeah, I think this junction has been shown at least 3-4 times on here in the last few months ...




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Looking forward to the rest of your story!
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Old 01-03-2014, 05:04 PM   #69
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Wonderful trip and pics. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 01-05-2014, 05:10 AM   #70
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Tara Canyon

Next up was the famed Đurđevića Tara Bridge. The smooth and windy road was great fun. The bridge itself was crowded with tourists like I hadn't seen in a long time. The novelty for me was there were Russian tourists. I can't read the cyrillic on the statue, but I assume he was the engineer executed for helping the Yugoslav partisans destroy the bridge. In the afternoon I took the narrow winding scenic road towards the capital Podgorica. I met the odd VW Golf, Mercedes truck bumbling along with a load of wood, cows and goats. In the modern looking city of Podgorica I was able to get some Euros, a hot meal, and find a decent room for €15 on the outskirts of town.



















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Old 01-05-2014, 11:13 AM   #71
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Great RxR
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Old 01-05-2014, 04:42 PM   #72
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Next up was the famed Đurđevića Tara Bridge. The smooth and windy road was great fun. The bridge itself was crowded with tourists like I hadn't seen in a long time. The novelty for me was there were Russian tourists. I can't read the cyrillic on the statue, but I assume he was the engineer executed for helping the Yugoslav partisans destroy the bridge. In the afternoon I took the narrow winding scenic road towards the capital Podgorica. I met the odd VW Golf, Mercedes truck bumbling along with a load of wood, cows and goats. In the modern looking city of Podgorica I was able to get some Euros, a hot meal, and find a decent room for €15 on the outskirts of town.



If you want to know what's written on the monument, here's the rough translation:

"This monument is raised
by mother Marija to her son
Bozidar Zugic,
lieutenant, born in 1915, and heroically
died in 1941.

I raise this monument to you, my son,
so that your mother's longing passes
and the rapids of Tara river
to take your old mother's voice
so that the traveller knows
why you gave up your youth."

In fact, lieut. Zugic (of engineering corps of the Royal Yugoslav Army) died at the beginning of the Axis attack on Kingdom of Yugoslavia in 1941. somewhere in South Banat (northeast of Belgrade, Serbia). He refused to accept surrender of his unit ordered by his commanding officer and he took out his sidearm and shot both his CO and the commander of the Hungarian enemy forces. The Hungarian soldiers opened fire and killed him. They run over his dead body by a tank and dropped it in the nearby dump.
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Old 01-06-2014, 06:32 AM   #73
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He refused to accept surrender of his unit ordered by his commanding officer and he took out his sidearm and shot both his CO and the commander of the Hungarian enemy forces. The Hungarian soldiers opened fire and killed him. They run over his dead body by a tank and dropped it in the nearby dump.
Wow.. that's horrific. Thanks for the translation and info. I guess English wikipedia still has a lot of holes!
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Old 01-07-2014, 05:46 AM   #74
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Kotor

I got drenched off and on riding towards the Adriatic coast but the views were astounding still. The hairpins are relentless dropping far down into the Bay of Kotor and I lowsided around one in the rain. The new ADV riding gear is valuable stuff. I didn't feel a thing or scratch a thread, just added some more character to my panniers. I had a good lunch and coffee on the waterfront. Bay of Kotor is wondrous but there are literally boatloads of tourists and the prices are adjusted as such. I heard there are other bays that are not so touristy but one was enough for me, so I headed for Albania.



















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Old 01-07-2014, 04:34 PM   #75
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Any place where the cruise ships come quickly becomes a tourist trap, I think. I can't blame the people in these little towns for wanting to make money and have a materially-better life. It is their place. Like you, if a place turns me off I just go and find one that delights me!
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