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Old 11-19-2013, 05:47 AM   #16
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billdonna View Post
Pretty slick except for the fact the socket covers the bolt so you can't see the flat .

One would have to turn the socket guessing if you've gone far enough, remove to inspect, turn some more, inspect, turn some more, inspect, whoops.. too far.

I prefer one smooth, fluid motion when torqueing. Spend the 10 bucks.
I think he means the next bolt is to be used as a reference.

Jim
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Old 11-19-2013, 06:02 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billdonna View Post
Pretty slick except for the fact the socket covers the bolt so you can't see the flat .

One would have to turn the socket guessing if you've gone far enough, remove to inspect, turn some more, inspect, turn some more, inspect, whoops.. too far.

I prefer one smooth, fluid motion when torqueing. Spend the 10 bucks.
Or you could mark the socket.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coma View Post
Circumference is Pi X D. So if your wrench is 12" long then D is 24". Pi=3.14159. C=75.39816. So 32/360 X 75.39816=6.70205 or ~ 6.7"

Move the end of the handle of your wrench 6.7" across the arc which will equal 32 degrees, if you have a 12" wrench.
Hey I knew someone would come up with a super simple way. BTW, how do you hold that tape measure in the arc?
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Old 11-19-2013, 06:06 AM   #18
Jim Moore
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Some of you guys may be overthinking this one. How close is your initial torque? When was the last time your torque wrench was calibrated? If your wrench is off by 10%, how many degrees is that?
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Old 11-19-2013, 06:45 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by sieg View Post
Hey I knew someone would come up with a super simple way. BTW, how do you hold that tape measure in the arc?
The distance difference between the straight line between the two points and the distance across the arc is very small. The arc length is less than 10% of total circumference. So JVB's string and pin works great.

When I get some more coffee in me I will figure the actual difference.
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Old 11-19-2013, 06:45 AM   #20
AntonLargiader
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Originally Posted by Jim Moore View Post
Some of you guys may be overthinking this one. How close is your initial torque? ...
Initial torques on angle-torqued fasteners are chosen to be the most repeatable ones you can have, based on the properties of the materials. That's the whole point of their role in this method: make the most predictable starting point possible. In my experience the torque rises very rapidly when you reach the initial torque, so a few Nm either way will make a very small difference in angle. Stop the torque and start the angle before the variables start to affect the accuracy.
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:54 AM   #21
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The short answer is it's 6.6" straight line vs 6.7 around the arc.

Here is a fun link to use.
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Old 11-19-2013, 01:41 PM   #22
Jim Moore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntonLargiader View Post
Initial torques on angle-torqued fasteners are chosen to be the most repeatable ones you can have, based on the properties of the materials. That's the whole point of their role in this method: make the most predictable starting point possible. In my experience the torque rises very rapidly when you reach the initial torque, so a few Nm either way will make a very small difference in angle. Stop the torque and start the angle before the variables start to affect the accuracy.
You made me a believer. I just went out to the garage and messed around with my torque wrench. The difference between 20 ft-lb and 25 ft-lb is only a (very) few degrees. Less than five, maybe as low as two. What that means is that even with a 20% torque wrench error you would only be off by a couple degrees. Damned interesting. I think i need to buy a new tool.
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