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Old 11-28-2013, 08:25 PM   #31
Michel77 OP
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Oddometer: 136
So it appears I have a charging issue on the bike, it left me stranded earlier this week

I recharged the battery and it starts up just fine, so the starter is good. I kinda figured something was off as I learned more and figured out the charging light on the speedo doesn't come on, not with the ignition on, not when idling, not when riding at 3k+ rpm...
So today I checked the fuses and bulb, all good, then pulled the tank and found the starter relay with some non-oem wiring or so it appears? Judging by the wiring diagram, those 2 disconnected blue wires are part of the charging system so I am wondering why they are not connected and also why I seem to have a new ground wire (green) connected to the relay and grounding at the coils... I haven't rewired it to stock yet to see how that goes, so for now just wondering what is going on and why anybody would make that change in the wiring, if anybody has any ideas I'd sure be glad to hear 'em!





And some pics of other progress (purist may avert their eyes at this point to keep the peace )



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Michel77 screwed with this post 11-28-2013 at 08:31 PM
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Old 11-28-2013, 09:14 PM   #32
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Where did you find the fenders?
I might be looking for something similar.
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Old 11-28-2013, 09:18 PM   #33
Big Bamboo
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That extra green wire to the coil bracket is a non original additional ground and not necessary. The other two blue wires can be connected together or there should be two shared terminals on the relay. They don't do anything through the relay, it was apparently just a convenient place to connect them. If I'm not mistaken, they form part of the turn signal wiring, so maybe there's your problem. Re; no charging light, try shorting across the rotors two slip rings and see if it comes on. If it does, you need a new rotor...
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:28 PM   #34
tlub
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Keep the old bits! And learn about it more!

I would really recommend keeping the original parts you remove. Not having them will drastically reduce the value of the bike when you sell it. These bikes are worth a lot more stock than cobbed together with odd bits. A lot. My guess is you dropped $500 off the value with the changes so far. So for your own sake, keep everything. Put it in a box and keep it safe.
And find an original seat pan to use. Put whatever you want on the pan. Anything else will probably bend the subframe to which it is attached. Those subframes are thinwall tubing with very defined mounting points.
Also, all /5s came with turn signals. Period. If that is a long wheelbase bike, it had reflectors on the ears. Only in 70 and very early 71 did the turn signals have the end reflectors. You can find turn signals on ebay easily, and the stalks are not bad either- I paid 15 bucks for two signals and 10 for 2 stalks not long ago.
Important- If your charging light does not light with the ignition on and not running, you will never, never create any charge. The initial excitation of the field is through that bulb, just like in so may of Bobby Bosch's systems.
Do yourself a big favor and go onto one of the more specialized sites (like Snowbum's or Duane Ausherman's) and spend about a week learning about that bike. It is more like a German car than any bike you have owned before, and all your experience with other bikes is just enough rope to hang yourself. There are many links to completely troubleshooting the charging system (itself quite reliable) and almost anything else.
Those front brakes need to be properly adjusted so both arms travel equally. The stock handlebars are 22mm, not 7/8. the control mounts (perches) will not properly fit 7/8" bars. Don't lose the wedge for the perches or they never will grip even 22mm bars. Grease the rear wheel splines but not too much.
And have fun, but remember this one is different from whatever you had before
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Old 11-29-2013, 09:30 AM   #35
elite-less
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Lookin sharp! The charging system is simple to troubleshoot, lots of threads cover the process.

BTW - I have a spare rotor, stator, diode board and voltage regulator we can swap if need be.
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Old 11-29-2013, 04:35 PM   #36
Michel77 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwhacker View Post
Where did you find the fenders?
I might be looking for something similar.
Front fender is a $10 junkyard special, rear fender is a universal fender from dime city cycles ($50 or so).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Bamboo View Post
That extra green wire to the coil bracket is a non original additional ground and not necessary. The other two blue wires can be connected together or there should be two shared terminals on the relay. They don't do anything through the relay, it was apparently just a convenient place to connect them. If I'm not mistaken, they form part of the turn signal wiring, so maybe there's your problem. Re; no charging light, try shorting across the rotors two slip rings and see if it comes on. If it does, you need a new rotor...
Hey, thanks man, that's helpful! I'll have a look at the rotor tomorrow, it makes sense that those wires are for the turn signals since they were disconnected a while back.

Quote:
Originally Posted by elite-less View Post
Lookin sharp! The charging system is simple to troubleshoot, lots of threads cover the process.

BTW - I have a spare rotor, stator, diode board and voltage regulator we can swap if need be.
Hey Elite, thanks man, I may take you up on that offer and will shoot you a PM!
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Old 11-29-2013, 04:38 PM   #37
Michel77 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlub View Post
I would really recommend keeping the original parts you remove. Not having them will drastically reduce the value of the bike when you sell it. These bikes are worth a lot more stock than cobbed together with odd bits. A lot. My guess is you dropped $500 off the value with the changes so far. So for your own sake, keep everything. Put it in a box and keep it safe.
And find an original seat pan to use. Put whatever you want on the pan. Anything else will probably bend the subframe to which it is attached. Those subframes are thinwall tubing with very defined mounting points.
Also, all /5s came with turn signals. Period. If that is a long wheelbase bike, it had reflectors on the ears. Only in 70 and very early 71 did the turn signals have the end reflectors. You can find turn signals on ebay easily, and the stalks are not bad either- I paid 15 bucks for two signals and 10 for 2 stalks not long ago.
Important- If your charging light does not light with the ignition on and not running, you will never, never create any charge. The initial excitation of the field is through that bulb, just like in so may of Bobby Bosch's systems.
Do yourself a big favor and go onto one of the more specialized sites (like Snowbum's or Duane Ausherman's) and spend about a week learning about that bike. It is more like a German car than any bike you have owned before, and all your experience with other bikes is just enough rope to hang yourself. There are many links to completely troubleshooting the charging system (itself quite reliable) and almost anything else.
Those front brakes need to be properly adjusted so both arms travel equally. The stock handlebars are 22mm, not 7/8. the control mounts (perches) will not properly fit 7/8" bars. Don't lose the wedge for the perches or they never will grip even 22mm bars. Grease the rear wheel splines but not too much.
And have fun, but remember this one is different from whatever you had before
Thanks for all the advice, I'm keeping all take offs for future resale but in the meantime I like wrenching and making it my own and I like the scrambler look.
I spent quite a bit of time on Snowbum's awesome site, it is very helpful. I also have the Clymer manual and learn as I go. It gets interesting if things are not stock anymore though..
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Old 12-01-2013, 10:58 AM   #38
Michel77 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiabloADV View Post
Those blue wires at the starter relay are the charging light and diode board circuit, not turn signals. That's how the relay "knows" the motor is running.

You definitely need to jumper those or the bike won't charge. A jumper is built into the /6 relay to do just that.
Quoting this post from Diablo from another thread here as indeed the blue wires are part of the charging system. I am baffled as to why they were disconnected but I connected them again yesterday, cleaned up some grounds and other connections and sure enough my charging light is back on. Haven't tested real-life function just yet, another few weeks of work before she's back on the road..
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Old 12-01-2013, 11:06 AM   #39
Michel77 OP
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And for future readers' reference, below the (very clear) wiring diagram I used in my fault finding (note blue wiring from charge light to start relay, diode plate and VR):

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Old 12-01-2013, 06:03 PM   #40
Michel77 OP
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Some more progress shots

Elite-less came by today for a little Q&A session, learned a lot and happy to have the local expertise just a phone call away! Looking forward to meeting the rest of the locals!







I am liking how this is coming together, it'll have a very distinct patina to it with all these bits and pieces cobbled together
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Old 03-07-2014, 07:00 PM   #41
Michel77 OP
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She's Alive!! First commute done today (FYI, metal grate bridges wake you up pretty good in the morning!) and ready for Spring/Summer!

Updated Pics:









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Old 03-07-2014, 08:14 PM   #42
Bill Harris
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Wonderful rescue story.

Springtime beckons...

So that say.

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