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Old 12-08-2013, 03:57 PM   #31
ICERIDER
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For those of us without a problem yet.... with the sensor removed, do you see enough of the alloy disc to put a few pop marks in as a precaution?

And for those who know what's at the opposite end of the selector drum... would this procedure in-situ hurt anything?
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Old 12-11-2013, 09:26 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by ICERIDER View Post
For those of us without a problem yet.... with the sensor removed, do you see enough of the alloy disc to put a few pop marks in as a precaution?

And for those who know what's at the opposite end of the selector drum... would this procedure in-situ hurt anything?
Anybody?
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Old 12-11-2013, 03:05 PM   #33
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Looking at my previous posts of the sensor and the other post of the shift drums, I would think that is possible with just the right size punch.

However, it is easy to pop the side stand off and take out the sensor to check. Only a dribble of oil runs out so I would just take a look.

An update on my bike: it needed to be adjusted again and now I mostly get a neutral light at the right time but I cannot rotate the sensor any more. I guess I could cut the 'ears' off and fabricate a clamping strip to go over the top. I could rotate it to any position then and not run the risk of damaging the shift drum in any way, which is my biggest concern.
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Old 12-12-2013, 06:17 AM   #34
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I would turn the end a little using circlip pliers. hardly any force is required and you wont bend anything inside, its just the same as pressing on the gear lever.

When I rebuild engines I rotate the shift drum using an allen key in the opposite end, checking each gear, before finally torquing up the cases and starting to assemble the top end and clutch.
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:05 AM   #35
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I would turn the end a little using circlip pliers. hardly any force is required and you wont bend anything inside, its just the same as pressing on the gear lever.

When I rebuild engines I rotate the shift drum using an allen key in the opposite end, checking each gear, before finally torquing up the cases and starting to assemble the top end and clutch.
Good to know how much torque I can get away with, thanks!

I'll give that a go next time i'm down there.
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:20 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by motomal View Post
Looking at my previous posts of the sensor and the other post of the shift drums, I would think that is possible with just the right size punch.

However, it is easy to pop the side stand off and take out the sensor to check. Only a dribble of oil runs out so I would just take a look.

An update on my bike: it needed to be adjusted again and now I mostly get a neutral light at the right time but I cannot rotate the sensor any more. I guess I could cut the 'ears' off and fabricate a clamping strip to go over the top. I could rotate it to any position then and not run the risk of damaging the shift drum in any way, which is my biggest concern.

That's good to know thanks.

My SE is 3000km away so can't do a quick check. Shall be reunited in 2 weeks so I'll have a look then.

Are you going to try to rotate the disc in the drum?
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:13 PM   #37
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Thinking about the same procedure. I wonder if the disc will move easier with a hot engine. Seems like when mine failed it progressed as the engine got hotter. I suspect the disc is pressed in or perhaps glued in the end of the drum. If I can get it in the right position I plan to stake it in a couple of spots.
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