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Old 12-18-2013, 09:21 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Zuber View Post
Oil pump pressure relief is out side of the center cases.

Not aware of a shift drum upgrade. There may be an updated part, but that doesn't always mean you need it.

One more thing, pull all the oil jets and clean out the passages. Don't need to split the cases for this.
Thanks Zuber,

So If you were in my shoes you would not split the case regardless? Is there any down side to checking/replacing the main bearings and addressing other internal issues, other than me having more opportunities to screw something up?

Have you seen 950s that have 125k+ miles on the bottom ends without any attention? I feel like I need to get at least 50k on this rebuild to make it worth my time and money




Just so people know the bike has to be 100% reliable. It will be used in very remote parts of the Western US solo most of the time and hopefully next year (maybe '15, first kid is due in a few weeks) I would really like to do a 2 up trip through baja as a belated honeymoon with my wife.

I am getting a list of 'must do" items and then optional stuff that will depend on the budget once the engine is apart. I will post up what I have along with prices and maybe that will help push me down the right road.



Deltatango....
I hear you about main engine parts, they are stupid expensive and in my case or out of the question for the most part.

I am cautiously optimistic the engine will be in decent shape. Most of the miles came from the PO commuting to work as I understand. It has seen its fair share of off-road and long trips no doubt, but I dont think it was abused like some 950 are with the same miles.
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Old 12-19-2013, 02:10 AM   #32
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DIY grub screw, just cut threads of a M16 bolt and added a slot for a screwdriver:

1.75 Thread gauge is too small but was the biggest I had but its close so must be 2mm thread pitch.



Puller bolt, M20 with fine threads, 1.5mm thread pitch:



/Johan
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Old 12-19-2013, 05:23 AM   #33
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I did what you are planing, but took a bit of detour and blew right through the budget badly with some serious mission creep.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=754949

A little later I harvested the 950's gears for the installed SD engine;

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=835224

My advice reading your thread;

An impact wrench and the right sized sockets gets you everywhere you need to go in an engine rebuild, except for the valve stem seals - need a special clamp for them.

Only if the shifting is buttery smooth and no false neutrals then leave the bottom end and don't split the cases.

But it is not so much more effort to do it, especially if you buy a complete gasket kit from Athena. (I used one 2 weeks ago, it is brilliant). I would as a matter of course change; the 3 shift fork rollers, cam chains, any notchy bearings (all are standard size and good bearing shops will have them), and have a good look at the shift drum - from 2005 they upgraded the drum to prevent a fairly rare issue of one of the walls close to 6th gear position breaking.

My experience with my motors is that all the hardwear in the motor is practically bullet proof and very hard wearing. My 950 engine that had been beaten on for 70k km's looked practically pristine inside.

Your oil leak if it is from the base of the rear, is almost assuredly the Pydon effect. If budget doesn't cover a new bottom end then I've seen an engine repaired by using a new gasket with a thin film of gasket sealant on both sides and then torqued to spec and a second time after a few thousand k's.

Good luck, shout if you need help.
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Old 12-19-2013, 12:22 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by kamanya View Post
especially if you buy a complete gasket kit from Athena. (I used one 2 weeks ago, it is brilliant).
Interesting. I'd always heard mixed things about aftermarket gasket kits.
Is this: http://www.athenaparts.com ? I couldn't see the 9x0 listed.
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Old 12-19-2013, 12:33 PM   #35
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Sorry this was the one I used...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390690316516...84.m1439.l2649
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Old 12-19-2013, 12:39 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by kamanya View Post
Is that aftermarket or genuine KTM?

Your eBay ad says "OEM-Partnumber: 60030099000 *The OEM-Partnumber is listed for comparison purposes only". This other one on eBay specifically states "athena": http://www.ebay.com/itm/Full-Gasket-...-/200851282898

If I look up that OEM part# on a US fiche I get
60030099000
Description: GASKET SET CPL. 03
Retail: $306.49

Of course US prices on KTM stuff are often way less than elsewhere.
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Old 12-19-2013, 12:51 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post
Is that aftermarket or genuine KTM?

Your eBay ad says "OEM-Partnumber: 60030099000 *The OEM-Partnumber is listed for comparison purposes only". This other one on eBay specifically states "athena": http://www.ebay.com/itm/Full-Gasket-...-/200851282898

If I look up that OEM part# on a US fiche I get
60030099000
Description: GASKET SET CPL. 03
Retail: $306.49

Of course US prices on KTM stuff are often way less than elsewhere.
It is not OEM

I held my breath when I purchased it worrying about quality. Once it arrived and checking against the replaced parts I was happy. Little things like the parts of the base gasket that has beads of silicone on it were faithfully reproduced.

It is a very comprehensive kit. It has both 990 and 950 manifold gaskets along with everything that I needed to replace as well as the valve stem seals.

I'd buy it again for the next time.
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Old 12-19-2013, 01:38 PM   #38
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Kamanya and DirtADV thanks for the help and pics I will read through your rebuild thread.


I am torn now with splitting the case after your advise and what has been posted previously. Bike shifts fine and never a false neutral.......but who knows. Part of me would love to yank the heads, new rings clean up the valves and be done in a weekend. But then I would hate for a problem to pop up 2k later that I could have addressed the first time.

Ugh


One question I have that has not been clear after reading different rebuild threads is how to remove and then replace the main bearings? Do I need the special KTM tool to get the split bearing in and out or is there a shade tree method? I have a shop press, just trying to figure out if the KTM tool is necessary?


Ben
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Old 12-19-2013, 01:58 PM   #39
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Its your call but if it runs good and shifts good and its just the leaking base gasket that is the problem just lifting the cylinders with piston still in the bore would be cheap.

There are many high mileage bikes that have not reworked the heads or pistons.

You would get away with just 2 gaskets and some sealant pretty much.

I myself is worried about the shift drum since I do have false neutrals between gears every now and then.

The rekluse and not using the clutch might have tortured the gearbox over the last 40 000 kms. But now a stock clutch is back in it and will be only street use for the 950 so Im crossing my fingers that it will hold up.

/Johan
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Old 12-19-2013, 11:59 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COXR650L View Post
Kamanya and DirtADV thanks for the help and pics I will read through your rebuild thread.


I am torn now with splitting the case after your advise and what has been posted previously. Bike shifts fine and never a false neutral.......but who knows. Part of me would love to yank the heads, new rings clean up the valves and be done in a weekend. But then I would hate for a problem to pop up 2k later that I could have addressed the first time.

Ugh


One question I have that has not been clear after reading different rebuild threads is how to remove and then replace the main bearings? Do I need the special KTM tool to get the split bearing in and out or is there a shade tree method? I have a shop press, just trying to figure out if the KTM tool is necessary?


Ben
I just got up from the garage working on winter maintenance, and this year I figured I'd do a leak down test, since I'm at 65k miles, and the bike has been running a bit off for the last couple months (I think it's a clogged pilot jet, actually). Leak down numbers were great, and I don't feel like I could make the bike perform better or be more reliable by tearing it apart when it seems to be fine shape.

I'll be interested to see what your top end looks like with a few more miles than mine, but I do think you should do a leak down test and make absolutely sure your oil leak is from the base gaskets before you take the motor out and start taking it apart. My 2 cents.
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Old 12-20-2013, 07:12 AM   #41
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I just got up from the garage working on winter maintenance, and this year I figured I'd do a leak down test, since I'm at 65k miles, and the bike has been running a bit off for the last couple months (I think it's a clogged pilot jet, actually). Leak down numbers were great, and I don't feel like I could make the bike perform better or be more reliable by tearing it apart when it seems to be fine shape.

I'll be interested to see what your top end looks like with a few more miles than mine, but I do think you should do a leak down test and make absolutely sure your oil leak is from the base gaskets before you take the motor out and start taking it apart. My 2 cents.
I am 90% sure the leak is the base gasket, but I also think the head gasket is leaking because I am getting oil into the coolant overflow bottle, so with those two issues the engine pretty much has to come out.


Thanks for everyone's help so far. I've decided I am not going to touch the bottom end after looking at some of the higher millage engines and seeing that even in flogged bikes the bottom ends seem to be in good shape, especially given that I dont have any shifting problems.

However, the rings probably will be about worn out so I will do new rings and clean up the heads when I replace the gaskets.



I feel better knowing what direction Im going so I can get parts ordered and hopefully start working on the bike after Christmas

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Old 12-30-2013, 03:16 PM   #42
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Progress!!!

So I got the DR350 sold that is going to fund the 950 and I got some money buring a hole in my pocket

I've decided I am not going to crack the case and just pull the top end. Bike shifts and runs good (minus the oil leaks) so I hope that is the right decision.

I have ordered the following misc parts:
-Front and rear wheel seals
-Swing arm seals
-New battery
-New grip heaters
-Grips


and these engine parts:
-Complete KTM gasket kit
-2 Middle piston rings
-2 oil scraper rings
-2 Piston rings
-Oil pump pressure piston/spring assembly

and am going to be ordering:
-front/rear Cam Chains
-Cam chain sliders
-Water pump rebuild kit
-Radiator hose kit
-New tubes
-Front/rear tires
-New faucett fuel pump

Am I forgetting or missing anything that needs to be addressed while the engine is out? Or the bike torn apart?

Hopefully this weekend the tear down will start

Thanks

COXR650L screwed with this post 12-31-2013 at 06:20 AM
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Old 12-31-2013, 05:43 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COXR650L View Post
Progress!!!

So I got the DR350 sold that is going to fund the 950 and I got some money buring a hole in my pocket

I've decided I am not going to crack the case and just pull the top end. Bike shifts and runs good (minus the oil leaks) so I hope that is the right decision.

I have ordered the following misc parts:
-Front and rear wheel seals
-Swing arm seals
-New battery
-New grip heaters
-Grips


and these engine parts:
-Complete KTM gasket kit
-2 Middle piston rings
-2 oil scraper rings
-2 Piston rings
-Oil pump pressure piston/spring assembly

and am going to be ordering:
-front/rear Cam Chains
-Cam chain sliders
-Water pump rebuild kit
-Radiator hose kit
-New tubes
-Front/rear tires


Am I forgetting or missing anything that needs to be addressed while the engine is out? Or the bike torn apart?

Hopefully this weekend the tear down will start

Thanks
That sounds like a winner. I have the same year and color. If you have the blisters on the tank just pop them, don't fuck ip the entire tank like I did.

The only thing I can think of is maybe a fuel pump. It's on the outside so no big deal.

They are great motorcycles.
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Old 12-31-2013, 06:21 AM   #44
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That sounds like a winner. I have the same year and color. If you have the blisters on the tank just pop them, don't fuck ip the entire tank like I did.

The only thing I can think of is maybe a fuel pump. It's on the outside so no big deal.

They are great motorcycles.

Thanks for the suggestion. It has an aftermarket faucett style pump, but this would be a good time to replace it and use the old one as a long road trip spare.
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Old 01-10-2014, 08:00 AM   #45
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OK I have started getting the bike torn down and most of the parts are here.

This summer one of the oil line going into the oil tank was cracked. This part....


It is the rubber hose, and its $72 I went to the auto parts store and found one that fit, but now that Im looking at it I doubt its oil resistant because it is soft and ballooned out.

I refuse to pay almost $75 for a rubber 3/8in hose. Anyone have a good recommendation for a replacement. The biggest issues is the 90deg bend other than that a straight piece of hose will work.
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