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Old 12-29-2013, 08:01 PM   #19066
dohcfox
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Oddometer: 145
Quote:
Originally Posted by brayjay View Post
Hey guys, almost ready to start installing piston an head on my 650R and question is when torqueing down the head should I torque down the head in 10 FT pound increments or go half way as I work up to the 49 ft lbs it states in the manual. Do I need to go all the way to 49 ft lbs? Seems like a lot of torque. One more thing, does anyone know of a muffler other than stock that does not require having to repack the thing every so often? Thanks in advance.
Evening! I just got done rebuilding my 650R and torqued the head to 49 ft/lbs no problem. I first torqued to 30 pounds and then went to 49.
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Old 12-29-2013, 08:06 PM   #19067
ride4fun562
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: CA
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Originally Posted by Oddfellow View Post
Does anyone know if a R&D Flex Jet Fuel Mixture Screw will work on a Mikuni TM40? I'm assuming it will but I figured one of y'all would know for sure.



Speaking of remote screw thingys that go on carbs, anyone have a remote idle screw for a edelbrock carb, I'm still mad edelbrock stopped making that stuff.
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Old 12-29-2013, 08:56 PM   #19068
mitchn06
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just got done installing new bearings in some of the rear linkages. advice: don't let the shock linkage sit in the 10 degree garage for hours before you try to press in the bearings or install the oil/grease seals, it won't work. thankfully i'm smart enough to know my error right away instead of forcing things. freeze the bearings and heat or warm up the linkage. that's all.

edit: oh ya, anybody have any recent reviews on the tusk brand clutch kit? recent mistakes have taken a toll on my funds.
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Old 12-30-2013, 05:45 AM   #19069
brayjay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dohcfox View Post
Evening! I just got done rebuilding my 650R and torqued the head to 49 ft/lbs no problem. I first torqued to 30 pounds and then went to 49.
Thanks. You never had any studs snap off ?
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Old 12-30-2013, 06:53 AM   #19070
crypto666
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Location: The best trails in Nevada
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Originally Posted by brayjay View Post
Thanks. You never had any studs snap off ?

i believe I replaced mine when I did it. I didn't want to take that chance. However, they are some pretty tough bolts, I think you would be more likely to pull out threads than snap a bolt.
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Old 12-30-2013, 08:59 AM   #19071
brayjay
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Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
i believe I replaced mine when I did it. I didn't want to take that chance. However, they are some pretty tough bolts, I think you would be more likely to pull out threads than snap a bolt.
For what they cost, i will replace them. God forbid pulling the threads out of the cases.
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:17 AM   #19072
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brayjay View Post
For what they cost, i will replace them. God forbid pulling the threads out of the cases.

Not so scary now that we have Time-serts. They are a whole lot nicer to use than the heli-coils.
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:22 AM   #19073
brayjay
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Not so scary now that we have Time-serts. They are a whole lot nicer to use than the heli-coils.
Honestly never even heard of them.
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Old 12-30-2013, 10:05 AM   #19074
mitchn06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brayjay View Post
For what they cost, i will replace them. God forbid pulling the threads out of the cases.
if the bolts are still in the case, why not leave them? if you are replacing them because you are worried the case threads will let go, then the bolts are not the issue, right? steel bolts vs aluminum case. bolts will win.
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Old 12-30-2013, 10:10 AM   #19075
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
if the bolts are still in the case, why not leave them? if you are replacing them because you are worried the case threads will let go, then the bolts are not the issue, right? steel bolts vs aluminum case. bolts will win.

I believe there is some stretch to the studs once they are torqued, but I honestly don't know the correct protocol for replacing and if it matters. After dumping $1k (or whatever) in to the motor why not?
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Old 12-30-2013, 11:15 AM   #19076
brayjay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
if the bolts are still in the case, why not leave them? if you are replacing them because you are worried the case threads will let go, then the bolts are not the issue, right? steel bolts vs aluminum case. bolts will win.
Sorry i worded this post wrong. I was concerned about snapping the studs not pulling the threads out of the case.
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Old 12-30-2013, 12:19 PM   #19077
medisyn
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: San jose ca
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Speaking of time serts. Both of my chain adjusters were rusted and ruined from the previous owner, so I used time certs. Now its steel on steel (with plenty of grease + anti-sieze so way less of a chance of rust than aluminium and steel.

So far they are holding up great and are overall much better than the other methods to repair the adjusters.

I dont understand why Honda and other companies have the chain adjusters designed so poorly. They know these bikes are going to be slogged through water and mud. The bolts will rust.
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Old 12-30-2013, 01:48 PM   #19078
EsconDeasy
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Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Oddometer: 1,486
Greetings all you fine R riders!

I am the proud owner of a new-to-me 650R





My local KTM dealer took it on a trade and blew it out to me on consignment. Cheap cheap!

It's got the factory skid plate (which I like), Edelbrock, big tank, ricky stator, power up and a full pro circuit system. The headlight, although ugly, is blazingly bright. It does appear to have been washed with purple power (much tarnishing of the aluminum finishes) and the rear chain slider is gone, but it starts first kick every time. I'm gonna love this bike.
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Old 12-30-2013, 02:01 PM   #19079
tennessee thumper
now in Mt. View, AR
 
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Arkansas Ozarks
Oddometer: 738
Suspension Rebuild and revalve

Spoke with a fella at MX Tech Suspension in Illinois today.

http://www.mx-tech.com/

Seemed to know the R well and says it can be set up for my riding style which includes normal trail riding and some moderate m/x-jumps. About 10-15 feet in height.

I want to get rid of the full compression when I flat land a jump from time to time.

$800 for full rebuild of all three parts, new fork springs and new valves on forks and rear shock.

Is this the going rate for a service and set up as I have described?

Any experience with this shop?

Any recommendations on other shops?

All ears.....
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Old 12-30-2013, 02:20 PM   #19080
brayjay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EsconDeasy View Post
I am the proud owner of a new-to-me 650R





My local KTM dealer took it on a trade and blew it out to me on consignment. Cheap cheap!

It's got the factory skid plate (which I like), Edelbrock, big tank, ricky stator, power up and a full pro circuit system. The headlight, although ugly, is blazingly bright. It does appear to have been washed with purple power (much tarnishing of the aluminum finishes) and the rear chain slider is gone, but it starts first kick every time. I'm gonna love this bike.
Is this a recent picture? Where is the snow? I shure envy people in the southern USA in regards to weather. In my neck of the woods we have 3 feet of the white curse on the ground with daytime temps of -20. Biking season here usualy starts in mid to last week in april and ends in the middle of october.
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