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Old 12-30-2013, 08:06 PM   #19081
Shibby!
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In the midst of building a power bleeder for the ktm. I'll have to make connectors for the XRR.

You guys have me thinking about rebuilding mine with all this engine talk.


Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
Nope. A flat blade screwdriver will open it up and a 12mm socket will take the valve apart. There are some special things that need to be done, such as filing off the flared threads on the shaft, and bleeding it, and learning to avoid an oil shower. But once you have done one, they are all pretty much the same.

Well hold on, there is one special item, nitrogen. If you don't have a shop near by, you will have to get a bottle, reg, and the aircraft strut filling valve thingy.
There are lots of videos and how to pages out there, check a few out. People have different ideas and you can find what works the best for you. For example, I find bleeding through the compression adjuster worked best for me.
This is a good start here: http://www.borynack.com/xr650r/KYBShowaShockService.htm
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Old 01-01-2014, 02:32 AM   #19082
TJE
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XRR valves ... rebulild?

Hi lads! I bought an '03 XR650R a year ago, but I haven't ridden it much yet, maybe 1000km total. it's a fairly low mileage 3 owner bike.

My worry is that it consumes quite a lot of oil. It's also jerky, especially when picking up the gas after throttling down a bit. It's like the throttle is super sensitive ... When going straight at a constant speed, it's doesn't really feel smooth either.

I did the valves last weekend, and they were totally off. Intake should be 0.15 but I couldn't even get a 0.04 in there. Exhaust should be 0.20 but 0.30 would go in.

What state would the valves be in after an unknown thousand km of bad valves like that?

Does the oil consumption correlate with perhaps worn out valves?

What would be needed for a rebuild, assuming the bore and piston is OK?
Many thanks!
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:19 AM   #19083
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I have no idea, but I now see a use for the snake camera my bro got me for Christmas.

I would double check valves again, clean the carb. Basically check everything, and then pull the head if nothing works. Sounds a bit strange.

Is the motor stock?

As far as a rebuild, I found it a pleasure to work on. However, I would feel safer assuming you need a new rod while you are in there. It is pretty common. Once you confirm your rod is good, then the rebuild is a breeze, if not it goes to another level with splitting the cases. No matter the bike however, 4t motors are expensive to rebuild compared to a truck or 2t.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TJE View Post
Hi lads! I bought an '03 XR650R a year ago, but I haven't ridden it much yet, maybe 1000km total. it's a fairly low mileage 3 owner bike.

My worry is that it consumes quite a lot of oil. It's also jerky, especially when picking up the gas after throttling down a bit. It's like the throttle is super sensitive ... When going straight at a constant speed, it's doesn't really feel smooth either.

I did the valves last weekend, and they were totally off. Intake should be 0.15 but I couldn't even get a 0.04 in there. Exhaust should be 0.20 but 0.30 would go in.

What state would the valves be in after an unknown thousand km of bad valves like that?

Does the oil consumption correlate with perhaps worn out valves?

What would be needed for a rebuild, assuming the bore and piston is OK?
Many thanks!

crypto666 screwed with this post 01-01-2014 at 09:24 AM
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:36 AM   #19084
Bhart89
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Hello all, I'm a soon to be owner of a 2003 XR650R.

Are their any issues with parts availability I should know? I'm aware that Honda hasn't produced these bikes since 2007. Are their any issues getting rebuild parts should I need them?
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:58 AM   #19085
brayjay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bhart89 View Post
Hello all, I'm a soon to be owner of a 2003 XR650R.

Are their any issues with parts availability I should know? I'm aware that Honda hasn't produced these bikes since 2007. Are their any issues getting rebuild parts should I need them?
I checked into this recently and was told that transmission gears are the most difficult but are available and could be a long wait to get them if neaded. As for other parts not sure.
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:56 AM   #19086
supernick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bhart89 View Post
Hello all, I'm a soon to be owner of a 2003 XR650R.

Are their any issues with parts availability I should know? I'm aware that Honda hasn't produced these bikes since 2007. Are their any issues getting rebuild parts should I need them?
partzilla.com
btosports.com
something can be found
http://stores.ebay.com/EVERETT-POWER...&_sid=48844575
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:13 AM   #19087
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Spy information.
Mongolia 2013 Unofficial Trailer .

http://vimeo.com/83012009
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Old 01-01-2014, 12:00 PM   #19088
pavemike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supernick View Post
Spy information.
Mongolia 2013 Unofficial Trailer .

http://vimeo.com/83012009
Great video! Looks like one hell of a trip
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Old 01-01-2014, 12:22 PM   #19089
supernick
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Anybody understand English ?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VybkyKZDETA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aW_aYOq33Ac
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Old 01-01-2014, 04:24 PM   #19090
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so i set the top ring end gap at .014 and second ring at .018. does this sound about right for the wiseco standard bore. i decided to go off of the specs in the service manual. according to wiseco, the chart dictates top ring should be at about .016 and second ring at .020in. what is the consensus on this?
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Old 01-01-2014, 04:55 PM   #19091
jwalters
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Fantastic!

Quote:
Originally Posted by supernick View Post
Spy information.
Mongolia 2013 Unofficial Trailer .

http://vimeo.com/83012009
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Old 01-01-2014, 05:08 PM   #19092
lstzephyr
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no hablo ingles
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Old 01-01-2014, 05:14 PM   #19093
techforlife
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
so i set the top ring end gap at .014 and second ring at .018. does this sound about right for the wiseco standard bore. i decided to go off of the specs in the service manual. according to wiseco, the chart dictates top ring should be at about .016 and second ring at .020in. what is the consensus on this?

Whenever i rebuild an engine i go by the piston manufacturers specs on skirt clearances and ring gap..........they made both,,,,,,,,,Honda did not make the rings for Wiseco.......i have had ring gap closure on an engine,it was caught before it damaged the cylinder,but 014 and 018 is plenty..

B
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Old 01-01-2014, 07:37 PM   #19094
jules083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techforlife View Post
Whenever i rebuild an engine i go by the piston manufacturers specs on skirt clearances and ring gap..........they made both,,,,,,,,,Honda did not make the rings for Wiseco.......i have had ring gap closure on an engine,it was caught before it damaged the cylinder,but 014 and 018 is plenty..

B
I know about ring gap and all, but how did you catch it? Some distinct sound? Not that I'm doing a rebuild or anything at the moment, but it seems like good information to know.


Another, also just for reference, question. Wouldn't the top ring need the bigger gap, as it's the one that gets hottest? The idea is for the gap to basically go away at operating temperature, right?

Just one of those things I kind of know about but not really. Thanks.



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Old 01-01-2014, 10:49 PM   #19095
TJE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
I have no idea, but I now see a use for the snake camera my bro got me for Christmas.

I would double check valves again, clean the carb. Basically check everything, and then pull the head if nothing works. Sounds a bit strange.

Is the motor stock?

As far as a rebuild, I found it a pleasure to work on. However, I would feel safer assuming you need a new rod while you are in there. It is pretty common. Once you confirm your rod is good, then the rebuild is a breeze, if not it goes to another level with splitting the cases. No matter the bike however, 4t motors are expensive to rebuild compared to a truck or 2t.
Thanks, crypto666, much appreciated. Problem is that I know the basics of upkeeping a motorcycle, but when it comes to the inside of the case, I draw a complete blank. Living in Vietnam, I can't just go to a mechanic for help, as they would most certainly screw the whole thing up ... so trying to find out if it's actually a problem, and whether it's something I can do myself, or if I should just sell it before it goes really bad.

I heard that a loose valve is a happy valve, to a certain degree, but what would the result of too tight intake valves be? And could this be related to the high oil consumption?

Could the jerkiness have something to do with timing? And would this be easy to check?

Also, checking the rod sounds like a large operation, removing the top entirely?

Thanks again!
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