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Old 01-17-2014, 04:42 PM   #76
Tha Rick
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Originally Posted by COXR650L View Post
Charlie...

Thanks for the suggestion that was a big help, I wish I would have thought of that sooner. They were really in there. Unfortunately a few still stripped out and I had to weld a bolt to the end. Even then they had a difficult time coming out and sheered one of the bolts off! No locktight, so Im guessing they were really cranked in at a previous valve adjustment.
Dang Co, I never had to adjust them when the bike was mine, the Previous owner was the banger on that.

If you want help with threads/ stuff shoot me a PM.

I'm gueissing that the bike had around 100k miles on it before the rebuild project?
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Old 01-17-2014, 06:46 PM   #77
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Nice winter project Ben

It looks like you're doing it right.
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:53 AM   #78
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Originally Posted by COXR650L View Post
I hope it helps. The oil pump was well within spec, however the old spring was considerably shorter than the new one.


So what to do about the crank bearings

Thanks
Yeh the spring spec is 42mm, I doubt that piston ever moves....I dint think the LC8 suffers from excess oil pressure.

If your splitting the cases then it worth overhauling the crank, measure and order new bearings. Have a look at Pyndons info page, ISTR the newer case has a locking plate for shells.

http://www.ktm950.info/how/Orange%20..._overhaul.html
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:11 AM   #79
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Originally Posted by charlie264 View Post
Yeh the spring spec is 42mm, I doubt that piston ever moves....I dint think the LC8 suffers from excess oil pressure.

If your splitting the cases then it worth overhauling the crank, measure and order new bearings. Have a look at Pyndons info page, ISTR the newer case has a locking plate for shells.

http://www.ktm950.info/how/Orange%20..._overhaul.html
I got the idea from one Pydons (I think) posts where he had cam cain rattle and the spring and plunger solved it. If this doesn't work Ill do the tensions though.



Has anyone replaced crank bearings without the press tool? Hopefully I will be able to get that apart and spec'd out today or tomorrow.

I am going to try and do the carrier bearing without the tool, but the mains worry me about damaging the cases.

The wear on the carrier bearing is really odd looking, I don't understand how that could have been done unless the crank is not square, but then it seems there would be a lot of other issues. Maybe the bearing got cocked??
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:21 AM   #80
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Originally Posted by COXR650L View Post
I got the idea from one Pydons (I think) posts where he had cam cain rattle and the spring and plunger solved it. If this doesn't work Ill do the tensions though.



Has anyone replaced crank bearings without the press tool? Hopefully I will be able to get that apart and spec'd out today or tomorrow.

I am going to try and do the carrier bearing without the tool, but the mains worry me about damaging the cases.

The wear on the carrier bearing is really odd looking, I don't understand how that could have been done unless the crank is not square, but then it seems there would be a lot of other issues. Maybe the bearing got cocked??
Not advice, but id cut the case bearing with a demil style or a hack saw blade and the carefully pry it out.....if you could get the correct size socket use the old bearing to tap the new one in maybe. Think your going to need a press for the big ends.
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:37 AM   #81
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Not advice, but id cut the case bearing with a demil style or a hack saw blade and the carefully pry it out.....if you could get the correct size socket use the old bearing to tap the new one in maybe. Think your going to need a press for the big ends.
Thanks Charlie thats a good idea.
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:55 AM   #82
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Originally Posted by COXR650L View Post
Thanks Charlie thats a good idea.
My local dealer told me I could borrow their tools, not leave the shop with them of course, just let me do it there. The lc8 certification requires that they have the full tool set. Worst case if they won't let you do it, even if you paid full price for the new shells I can't imagine the dealer labor to remove and install would be that much. Just a suggestion rather than messing up your cover.

I don't think you can tap these two part shells in using a socket. You need the part of the tool that holds them together as you press them in.
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Old 01-18-2014, 02:13 PM   #83
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Ben,

Just out curiosity did you track your valve clearances and shims before you took it all apart? It'd be nice to know a relative higher milage baseline to compare mine to.

If not it's all good. Keep up the awesome thread, I hope to be following in your footsteps in few years. (20k/yr on an LC8 would be pretty a pretty good couple of years )
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:08 PM   #84
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Sorry Drew, someone else asked for that too and I forgot.....

Ill get some pictures/specs of the crank and valves tomorrow.



Quote:
Originally Posted by VxZeroKnots View Post
Ben,

Just out curiosity did you track your valve clearances and shims before you took it all apart? It'd be nice to know a relative higher milage baseline to compare mine to.

If not it's all good. Keep up the awesome thread, I hope to be following in your footsteps in few years. (20k/yr on an LC8 would be pretty a pretty good couple of years )
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Old 01-18-2014, 08:18 PM   #85
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So bad news....

The main bearing are toast





Hopefully the dealer can help me with pressing them in and out, but Im not holding my breath.


Also,

Anyone know what this is to? It was on the work bench when and I have no idea where it belongs?



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Old 01-18-2014, 09:09 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by COXR650L View Post
So bad news....

The main bearing are toast





Hopefully the dealer can help me with pressing them in and out, but Im not holding my breath.
Well, crap. I guess I'll take back that stuff I said about just adjusting the valves and cleaning the carbs and riding it until it dies. Good luck with the rebuild, I'm very interested to see what's required to get this engine back to 100%. The more miles I get on my bike, the less interested I am in anything else that's out there.
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Old 01-19-2014, 02:52 AM   #87
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Originally Posted by COXR650L View Post
So bad news....

Anyone know what this is to? It was on the work bench when and I have no idea where it belongs?

It belongs to the shift drum, it sits on a spring in hole on the end of the drum and contacts with the gear position sensor.

Tricky little buggers, can disappear fast.
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Old 01-19-2014, 06:12 AM   #88
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Originally Posted by COXR650L View Post
So bad news....

The main bearing are toast
Good news, they have worn lovely. I'd be happy I split the case, crank fine? If the dealer wont help you out, ask auto gearbox shop......
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Old 01-19-2014, 06:24 AM   #89
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Good news, they have worn lovely. I'd be happy I split the case, crank fine? If the dealer wont help you out, ask auto gearbox shop......
LOL thats true they did wear decent The crank seems fine, I dont really trust the micrometer I have (slide style) because it keeps giving me a measurement just over 50mm, and I dont see the crank getting bigger I am getting a dial style micrometer and will measure again, but Im guessing it will be in the top range for the red bearings, just under 50mm.

The rod bearing looked nice though Ill get a plastiguage measurement later today.



The valve springs are well over the 38 and 41mm limits. Will theses valves be ok to lapp back in?





Kamanya,

Thanks for the help, thats it!
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Old 01-19-2014, 07:30 AM   #90
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LOL thats true they did wear decent The crank seems fine, I dont really trust the micrometer I have (slide style) because it keeps giving me a measurement just over 50mm, and I dont see the crank getting bigger I am getting a dial style micrometer and will measure again, but Im guessing it will be in the top range for the red bearings, just under 50mm.

The rod bearing looked nice though Ill get a plastiguage measurement later today.



The valve springs are well over the 38 and 41mm limits. Will theses valves be ok to lapp back in.
Check the valves and valve guides for wear, look at the valve seats in the head and the hardened area around the the valve.

From manual,

Valve seats
The valve seats may not be impacted. Width of sealing seat: intake
max. 1.8 mm; outlet max. 2.0 mm. Reseat the valves if necessary.
Valves
Check the valve disk for wear and runout. The valve disk runout should
not exceed 0.03 mm. The valve seat may not be impacted. The sealing
area should be in the middle of the valve seat. The valve shaft is hardchrome-plated. Wear usually occurs at the valve guide.

Only lap the valves if needed, how I check, again this is me. Put the valve in give it a few spins so its seated, I then pour a little petrol or paraffin into the head and look for it passing the valves, if it drains away then a bit of fine lapping compound and work that sucker until no leaks. Don't mix the valves up if your going to keep um.

Its not like the old engine days of having to grind/seat valves in.
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