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Old 01-21-2014, 03:58 PM   #61
Joined: Jan 2013
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I don't know that its an obsession but I do get why some people whine about engine speed at x mph.

My cb600f on the highway is running near 7k rpm its buzzy the pegs vibrate your hands vibrate, you let off the gas and it feels like someone slammed on the brakes, duck behind the windscreen and it sounds like a ricer with a coffee can. 5k rpm is so much nicer would rather have a really high 6th gear cause I can always drop a gear (or 3) if I need to pass super quick.

Not worried about longevity or anything just comfort when i'm on the super slab.
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Old 01-21-2014, 04:19 PM   #62
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I would have though the boxer engines would be pretty smooth, boxer has a good natural balance. Same with 90* twins. Sure you feel the power pulses but those smooth out at higher RPMs. My SV is pretty happy mucking about at 4500-5500 around town, and not buzzy like a 4 banger. Or a 300 smoker. Talk about instant butt-numbification.
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Old 01-21-2014, 04:49 PM   #63
Joined: Dec 2013
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My 250 ninja is perfectly happy at 75 mph and 9,000 rpm for miles on end. The bar end mirrors never blur. quite smooth actually. I did go up a tooth on the front because of the REALLY low first gear. It will pull 13K in 6th on a flat with no head wind. I like to think it punches well above it's weight.

My 2004 Buell XB12s feels quite buzzy at 70 mph and 3,100 rpm. It will numb your feet on long rides and tingle your hands. It handles brilliantly, but feels much heavier than the baby Ninja.

I wear earplugs, and the little one wears stock pipes. I can barely hear it on the road. The Buell wears a race exhaust which is very deep but not really loud, rather pleasant actually.

My pick for most rides is actually the baby Ninja because it is so much fun.
The older I get, the faster I was.
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Old 01-21-2014, 04:53 PM   #64
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I've put taller gearing on many bikes, trucks, etc.
My Commando 850 has a 22T front sprocket, gives a lovely 3,000@70mph cruise, 4,000@80mph if I'm in a hurry. I gladly give up the dragstrip performance to achieve a better cruise, super slab is a reality to get places, and I RIDE it! Same with the TX750... up 2t in the front, down 2 in the rear.
Many times, gearing is dictated by "worst case scenario", that is, until recently, most touring bikes had to be geared low enough to be able to haul two people AND gear, 55mph, uphill, in mountainous terrain...
FINALLY, they offer tall O.D. cogs on some, for leisurely cruising on flat ground, and at higher speeds... the peril being, if the customers don't head the "WARNING!" In the manual, the lugging could destroy engines under warranty.
Too much is just barely enough.....
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Old 01-21-2014, 05:58 PM   #65
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I've gone both ways with gearing on different bikes. Some I determine by where I want first gear to be , others by top gear or by what top gear may be limited to.
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:13 PM   #66
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Just to be clear: My bike is a 750 three cylinder. Very smooth.
I came into this world kicking, crying and covered in someone else's blood. I have no problem leaving the same way.
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:53 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
I don't doubt it, but I wonder why the OP or others would care what others want to do with their own bikes. Some people run more slab for longer distances than others. Some prefer having more crawling ability. Some have no trouble modulating a clutch or shifting between 1st and 2nd all day long. When in a hurry, why would somebody want to scream a motor on 70MPH slab when they can gear it to amble along comfortably?
For the wheelies. At least that's why I do it.
Good. Bad. I'm the guy with the gun.

Another day, another foot injury!
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:54 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by orangebear View Post
With most bikes if the motor is reving its nuts off at motorway speed then take a smaller road.
Or buy a bigger bike.
Good. Bad. I'm the guy with the gun.

Another day, another foot injury!
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:10 PM   #69
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Or just ride it.
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:44 PM   #70
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[QUOTE=iamcanjim;23265865]Whenever a new bike is introduced, members here wail and go on about how high the bike will be revving at 80, 90 or 100 mph.
QUOTE] guys would argue if the sun was going to come up tomorrow.

The answer is no more complicated than there is no 'correct' gearing for a motorcycle. The manufacturer sells the bike with both gearbox and final gearing that they feel will be ok for most buyers. If its a birt bike, will the bike be used to grind along narrow country trails, or used as a commuter at fast freeway speed. The manufacturer doesn't know what it'll be used for so just sells the bike with a final gearing that is halfway between both tasks. The best final gearing will depend on what it is going to be used for.

For a road bike, does the rider want the bike to perform like a track bike, or cruise comfortable along the highway. Different gearing will give different outcomes. Neither is wrong or right, they are just different.

Experiment with different gearing on your bike and decide for yourself what best suits how you want the bike to perform. I have set the final gearing of my bike lower primarily to have more useful gears in the box. Race teams spend a lot of time setting up different gearbox and final drive grearing for every different track.

JohnCW screwed with this post 01-21-2014 at 09:18 PM
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Old 01-21-2014, 09:39 PM   #71
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When u ride your motorcycle the motor should always be "In the Pipe"

Life's short...ride far

Over 2000 plated dirt riders...Digg'n up the dirt every other day, all over BC
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Old 01-22-2014, 12:33 AM   #72
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I started riding on 150cc thumpers, getting anywhere meant I'd redline them on every single gear and I'd run them at the redline for extended periods of time if I got on a boulevard or the highway. Those little engines were meant to do that, they were perfectly happy screaming right at the redline for 60 minutes at a time.

Were they stressful? Hell yes, not because of the rpms, but because of the lack of power. Work your ass to pass that truck just to be passed by that same truck just because you got a headwind...

Then I got into sportbikes, they are meant to rev, I'm just fine with them revving high. I've done 8+ hour days on sportbikes, revs are not a problem.

Then I got a Vulcan 900, try to get that biatch to rev and you'll regret it, it will try to vibrate your teeth fillings out and it won't go any faster in the process. That is an egnine that is not meant to rev, I'd understand how that could be stressfull on a long trip...

And then I did a 6000 mile trip on my XT660R thumper, it's actually smoother if you go faster.
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Old 01-22-2014, 03:32 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by Idle View Post
Quite simply, they are brick stupid..
^This guy...
My Next Walkabout
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Old 01-22-2014, 04:43 AM   #74
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"When u ride your motorcycle the motor should always be "In the Pipe""

In the pipe may be a pothead term, I don't know! But the motorcycle term is "On the pipe" and it refers to when a 2-stroke hits the power band.
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Old 01-22-2014, 05:56 AM   #75
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: S.E. Pennsylvania (Reading)
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Originally Posted by windmill View Post
Its just the way it is.

Go ride a 250cc bike 70 mph at 6500 RPM's for 500 miles on the freeway, then ride a big displacement cruiser 70 mph at 3000 RPM's for 500 miles on the freeway.

It will be self explanatory.
...still depends on the bike, not engine size.

My current ride is a TU250X and it's more of a pleasure to ride at highway speeds than either of my DR650's were or my old GSX1100G (with large windshield) ever were, mostly because it's super comfortable and it's set up for touring. It's flick ability/maneuverability is much less stressful than man handling a larger bike and, it's even more stable in crosswinds than other larger bikes I've owned.

Higher revs be's one of the most relaxing bikes to ride, I've ever owned. (on the interstates @ 65+ included) She can stay pegged @ 75 for hours and not really feel taxed at all (even if that usually is her top speed)
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