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Old 02-04-2014, 11:54 AM   #7171
Stretch67
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Location: My Mad Scientist Laboratory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallrat View Post
Hmm so according to Rad, the only thing it will fit is an XR400. I thought one of the 600 or 650's shared our rear wheel. Anyone know?

From the Index:

Wheel Swaps & Compatibility

CRF 450 / XR400
2674, 2985-6

XR250 / XR400
876

XR400 / XR600 & 650
2402, 4687
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Old 02-04-2014, 02:08 PM   #7172
Wallrat
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Thanks for that. Looks like it won't fit anything else without some bearing swaps.
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Old 02-05-2014, 12:18 AM   #7173
creedyflyr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallrat View Post
Hmm so according to Rad, the only thing it will fit is an XR400. I thought one of the 600 or 650's shared our rear wheel. Anyone know?
I used an XR650R rear wheel after I cracked My Hub.
The 650R uses a thicker rear Axle so some different bearings & seals are needed.
Here is a list of parts I used:

1 x 91205-950-003 OIL SEAL 25X42X7 (From a Honda Fourtrax 4x4 Steering Stem)
1 x 91253-033-003 OIL SEAL,25X47X6.5 (Standard XR400 rear wheel seal)
1 x 91003-KRM-841 BRG,BALL RADIAL (from Honda CRF150F Transmission)
1 x 6303 ball bearing. (Generic size bearing)
4 x 90113-MAC-780 ( These Bolts along with 4 washers are needed to fit the XR400 Rotor on the XR650 Hub)
Easy.
Creedy.
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Old 02-05-2014, 01:50 AM   #7174
jtw000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creedyflyr View Post
I used an XR650R rear wheel after I cracked My Hub.
The 650R uses a thicker rear Axle so some different bearings & seals are needed.
Here is a list of parts I used:

1 x 91205-950-003 OIL SEAL 25X42X7 (From a Honda Fourtrax 4x4 Steering Stem)
1 x 91253-033-003 OIL SEAL,25X47X6.5 (Standard XR400 rear wheel seal)
1 x 91003-KRM-841 BRG,BALL RADIAL (from Honda CRF150F Transmission)
1 x 6303 ball bearing. (Generic size bearing)
4 x 90113-MAC-780 ( These Bolts along with 4 washers are needed to fit the XR400 Rotor on the XR650 Hub)
Easy.
Creedy.

Was there any benefit in the swap in terms of handling, etc?
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Old 02-05-2014, 07:49 AM   #7175
jwdub
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Oil Level Fluctuations

I recently bought a 2000 XR400R, and while I'm familiar with dry sump engines having owned BSA, Matchless, and the XR650R and XR250R, I've never had the oil level measurement issues I've had with the 400. I've read other posts on this thread regarding problems others have had, however, no one has posted that they've used the oil level check bolt to verify the oil level in the sump. I presume, although it doesn't say in the owners manual, that it's checked with the engine off. Otherwise I'd guess that crankcase pressure would blow the oil out.

So, I'm curious if anyone who's checked the oil level at the dipstick and found it low or not even on the end of the dipstick, has removed the oil level check bolt. If so, was the sump full and oil ran out or?
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Old 02-05-2014, 09:42 AM   #7176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwdub View Post
I recently bought a 2000 XR400R, and while I'm familiar with dry sump engines having owned BSA, Matchless, and the XR650R and XR250R, I've never had the oil level measurement issues I've had with the 400. I've read other posts on this thread regarding problems others have had, however, no one has posted that they've used the oil level check bolt to verify the oil level in the sump. I presume, although it doesn't say in the owners manual, that it's checked with the engine off. Otherwise I'd guess that crankcase pressure would blow the oil out.

So, I'm curious if anyone who's checked the oil level at the dipstick and found it low or not even on the end of the dipstick, has removed the oil level check bolt. If so, was the sump full and oil ran out or?
I have had four XR4s and have never used the oil ck bolt even once. I can't see any reason for it. Just follow the instruction in the manual and there is zero worries. Can't imagine anything more simple.
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Old 02-05-2014, 09:53 AM   #7177
DrLewall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwdub View Post
So, I'm curious if anyone who's checked the oil level at the dipstick and found it low or not even on the end of the dipstick, has removed the oil level check bolt. If so, was the sump full and oil ran out or?
because of the protection I have on the oil side of the motor, I don't use the oil level check hole..it's a pain to remove the armour so all my oil checking is done from up top. Now I will tell you that sometimes, I will check the oil and there will be nothing on the dip stick..this has fooled me a time or two. Best I can figure is that maybe a check valve was open when I shut the motor off and all the oil on the tank flowed out. I learned after over filling to restart the motor for a abt 30 seconds, shut it off and recheck the oil..you may have to do this more than once, but you will get a better and more accurate reading. Hope this helps

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Old 02-05-2014, 11:18 AM   #7178
Zane Neher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonusmaximus View Post
From the thread index

Camshaft (Timing) Chain
2293-94, 2393, 2414, 2609-13, 2624-25, 2828, 2930-32, 3378, 3586, 3588, 3678-79, 4875, 4933-34, 5002, 5302, 7141-7153

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Thanks, but I actually went through all of that already hoping to find a write up but nothing really there in that regard.
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Old 02-05-2014, 03:08 PM   #7179
DrLewall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zane Neher View Post
Thanks, but I actually went through all of that already hoping to find a write up but nothing really there in that regard.
what is it that you are looking for?

I have an extra motor, I reckon I could do a cam chain install wright up if need be.
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Old 02-05-2014, 06:03 PM   #7180
creedyflyr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtw000 View Post
Was there any benefit in the swap in terms of handling, etc?
None at all, I just had access to a cheap pair from a mates 650R.
Creedy.
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Old 02-05-2014, 07:39 PM   #7181
Zane Neher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrLewall View Post
what is it that you are looking for?

I have an extra motor, I reckon I could do a cam chain install wright up if need be.
Everything would be awesome, ha.
I hate going in blind and like to at least look up a write up. I searched the ex forums as well with little info.

I think my best bet is to break everything down. Look up clutch removal, timing, ect. my maain worry was the fact I don't have timing gun, but from the info I did find it seems I do not need one, just need to align the cam markings and make sure the lobes are facing down and I'm set with that.

The nut stake and needing a dremel to remove it has be at a loss for the moment but I guess once I tear in to it it'll be self explanatory. Ordering the side cover gasket and crf chain tomorrow.

Pulled the tensioner off, set the plunger all the way out and could nearly push the tensioner all the way on the jug, so that seems to be my issue. Hoped it was the decomp since it was poorly adjusted..

When I do the swap, i'll deffinately have the write up since I take pics when removing stuff anyway.
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Old 02-06-2014, 04:51 AM   #7182
DrLewall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zane Neher View Post
Everything would be awesome, ha.
I hate going in blind and like to at least look up a write up. I searched the ex forums as well with little info.

I think my best bet is to break everything down. Look up clutch removal, timing, ect. my maain worry was the fact I don't have timing gun, but from the info I did find it seems I do not need one, just need to align the cam markings and make sure the lobes are facing down and I'm set with that.

Cam timing is easier than you can imagine..firsts make sure your flywheel timing mark is visible in the timing window on the left side of the motor..now look at the cam gear, there are 3 little o's (timing marks) on the cam gear..all you got to do is make sure that they are in line with the horizontal plane of the head..that is, the top o mark is at 12 o'clock and the other two are at 9 and 3 o'clock, IN LINE WITH THE HORIZONTAL FLAT EDGE OF THE HEAD, (the part where the rocker box bolts to)..I will try to get a pic later for better illustration for you

The nut stake and needing a dremel to remove it has be at a loss for the moment but I guess once I tear in to it it'll be self explanatory. Ordering the side cover gasket and crf chain tomorrow.

Pulled the tensioner off, set the plunger all the way out and could nearly push the tensioner all the way on the jug, so that seems to be my issue. Hoped it was the decomp since it was poorly adjusted..

When I do the swap, i'll deffinately have the write up since I take pics when removing stuff anyway.
would love to see your write up..if we can get the stoopid snow to stop so that I can get over to the shop to work on this, I will do so..so I may need a few days to get it done..hopefully, you're not in too big of a hurry for it.
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Old 02-06-2014, 05:44 AM   #7183
Rando
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Hey Doc, what brand is your oil sump "armor"? Is that some SRC stuff? Thanks, Rando.
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Old 02-06-2014, 05:58 AM   #7184
DrLewall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rando View Post
Hey Doc, what brand is your oil sump "armor"? Is that some SRC stuff? Thanks, Rando.
yes..SRC stuff..was on the bike when I got it back in "98"
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:46 AM   #7185
Zane Neher
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Thank you.
Timing was my main worry since this is my DD and I'd have no way to take it to a timing gun owning person after I did the work.

The stake nut, what exactly is the process with this? I heard one gun only used an impact to remove it and then I hear other people saying to use a chisel or dremel. Kind of seems like that'll toss metal into the engine. (?)

I ordered:
14401-MEB-671
11394-KCY-670

So hopefully I can knock this out next Wednesday. It's my DD so I'm riding on hope and prayers.
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