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Old 11-22-2010, 05:30 PM   #1
Mark5PA OP
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Rear Brake Lever Height Adjustment F8

To adjust the height, some one here mentioned grinding the stop tab for higher or adding some weld to lower. Great idea.
I just installed some Pre Eng 1" lower pegs (great btw), and needed the r brake lever lowered. Didn't feel like doing the weld thing.
Found these at the True Value Hardware store.




It's the same type clips that hold faring parts on, but bigger & different sizes.

When you pull the two bolts that hold the plastic cover (and rear slave) on, you will see an odd shapped hole on the break lever that can be easily drilled to 1/4", without removing the lever. Then slip the threaded clip over, facing the stop & brake light tab. Thread in a ss 1/2" bolt. I needed to cut a bit of the plastic cover, so the head of the bolt didn't hang up. Don't forget to adjust the brake slave arm for the new lever distance.
I did this last Sunday, in about 10 minutes. I forgot to note the clip sizes. Bought 4 different @ $1.85 each. The one I used added 4mm to the bump & lowered the lever about 10mm. Perfect for me.
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Old 11-23-2010, 05:19 AM   #2
JRWooden
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Very clever
Thanks for sharing!

I've been meaning to examine the setup myself in hopes of finding some reversable way to get my pedal a bit lower...
I'm glad you beat me to it

On some thread here I posted the adjustment procedure for the rear master cylinder, as you point out, re-adjusting that is a MUST!
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Old 11-23-2010, 07:46 AM   #3
Toadride
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Im the past I had been told that I was dragging my break because my toe is constantly on the pedal. Turns out the switch is super sensetive and clicks on at any touch of the pedal. I don't think I was really dragging the brake but I decided to move the foot lever one or two notches on the spline. to compensate for the gap at the switch causing the brake light to come on, I just glued a small piece of hard rubber to the contact point on the lever.
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Old 11-23-2010, 05:32 PM   #4
Bushwhacker
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I had the exact opposite problem.

The pedal was too low so I added this from TT and it has worked great -

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Old 11-23-2010, 07:23 PM   #5
Mark5PA OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toadride
Im the past I had been told that I was dragging my break because my toe is constantly on the pedal. Turns out the switch is super sensetive and clicks on at any touch of the pedal. I don't think I was really dragging the brake but I decided to move the foot lever one or two notches on the spline. to compensate for the gap at the switch causing the brake light to come on, I just glued a small piece of hard rubber to the contact point on the lever.
Splines on the F8 r brake lever? I gotta look at mine again. Thought it was just a pivot & stop setup. My break light is a normal on switch, that is pushed off when the lever is at rest. Adjustment could be made by bending the tab with needle nose pliers. Could be wrong, I'm new to the F8. Just going by what I just modified.
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Old 07-08-2011, 11:36 PM   #6
LilDirtRat
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This is fucking brilliant. I installed the 2" drop precision engineering pegs and needed to drop my brake lever. With the help of this mod and a little master cylinder adjustment courtesy of Inmate JRWooden, I was able to drop my pedal enough to be reasonable. A bit more would be nice, but honestly any more would push the limits of the cylinder adjustment.
Headed out on the road (or off it) for a few days, but I'll update this thread with photos and links when I get back.

Thanks to both of you FFs for your ingenuity and assistance!
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Old 07-11-2011, 02:53 AM   #7
Dockstrada
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I just cut the OEM one off and made a higher one ,its now spoton

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Old 07-12-2011, 11:00 PM   #8
Singletrack_mind
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I ground the nub on the lever down a bit to raise the pedal up, I wanted it higher when I had MX boots on. It ended up working nicely; When I'm off in the dirt I take the rubber peg inserts out and the pedal is pretty close to the hight of the peg. When I'm commuting or doing some other pavement ride, I put the rubber inserts back in and the pedal is then effectively lower. In that case I'm wearing old road race boots, and of course sitting rather than standing and have more ankle articulation so the lower brake lever feels just right.

If it was only that simple on the shift side! I run three different setups there: OEM shifter and rubber peg inserts for street with the RR boots, Remove the peg inserts for mixed DS with Alpinestars Scout boots, and a shortened TT folding shift lever set much higher for use with full on MX boots. Fussy, but I like my controls just so.
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Old 08-01-2011, 09:35 PM   #9
LilDirtRat
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update..

I did this a few weeks ago but failed to take any photos of the process.. my bad.

But I thought I'd just update the thread with my take on things.. and a bit more in depth..

SO... Go get one of these things: ("1/4-20 extruded U-nut")

http://www.lowes.com/pd_19241-37672-882982_4294856651+5003693_4294937087_?productId=30 19181&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity _sold|1&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl_Less%2BThan%2B1_4294856651%2B5003 693_4294937087_%3FNs%3Dp_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0 ||p_product_quantity_sold|1&facetInfo=Less%20Than%20$1

and a 1/4-20 by 1/2" machine screw.. your choice of head.. hex or whatever.

Before you start, play with your brake pedal a little bit to get a feel for how much free play there is.. when it actuates the brake light switch, and when it actually actuates the brakes.. You'll need to adjust the slave cylinder later to get the free play back to the way it was..

Remove the two bolts holding the rear brake slave cylinder on (which is the thing behind the plastic cover). The plastic cover will then come off. Then replace the two bolts, re-mounting the cylinder.. (just do it, you'll see).

Once the plastic cover is removed, you'll see an odd-shaped hole in the rear of the brake pedal.. right by the brake light switch. Drill out this hole to 1/4".. (super easy).

Install the "u-nut" on the brake lever so it lines up with the hole.. The "U" part goes toward the rear of the bike, and the "nut" part goes behind the brake lever (closest to the engine).

For the 2" drop pegs, I actually lined up my "u-nut" cock-eyed, so the corner of the "u" part is what made contact with the lever-stop. I think it bought me another C.H. of lowering..

Install the 1/4-20 bolt through the whole contraption and tighten into place.

Viola.. lowered.

But now you also have to adjust the free-play in the brake lever. You do that with the adjuster nut/lock nut on the bottom of the slave cylinder. Loosen the lock nut, then adjust the plunger to give you the correct amount of play before the brake is actuated. You'll probably adjust it so you see less threads on the adjuster.. Remember what it was like before you started?...

Then tighten up the lock nut, pull those mounting bolts back out, put the plastic cover back on and.. oops, it probably doesn't fit any more... That little bolt you installed is probably hitting that stupid little piece of plastic.. just trim the plastic thing to create some clearance for the bolt head..

And done.. It's not 100% perfect, but a hell of a lot better than before! I did this the night before heading out on an 8 day, 1500 mile trip.. didn't even ride the bike around the block before I left.. just left. A little weird at first to get used to it, but I'd say it worked out pretty damn well!

Thanks to the OP for the idea!


It looks like it's still not quite low enough in this photo, but I think that's due primarily to camera angle.. In reality they are juuuuust about level.
See the angle of my "u nut"? it's tilted to make the corner hit the lever-stop..


-LDR
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:41 PM   #10
Meritlane
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I installed the Precision Engineering pegs. They were an instant improvement in the bikes ergonomics for me. I am 6'3 w/35 inseam. I feel soooo much more balanced and in control while standing. Problem was the height of the brake pedal. This solution worked great.

Thanks Mark5PA and LilDirtRat. I will add one picture of the nut in place. With a round hex bolt, no mod to the cover was necessary.
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:48 PM   #11
LilDirtRat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meritlane View Post
I installed the Precision Engineering pegs. They were an instant improvement in the bikes ergonomics for me. I am 6'3 w/35 inseam. I feel soooo much more balanced and in control while standing. Problem was the height of the brake pedal. This solution worked great.

Thanks Mark5PA and LilDirtRat. I will add one picture of the nut in place. With a round hex bolt, no mod to the cover was necessary.
Awesome! I'm glad you found the thread.. us tall guys face some pretty obscure, and sometimes difficult to overcome obstacles.. This made a world of difference for me too!
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Old 03-09-2014, 11:28 PM   #12
SgtDirt
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Thanks!

Just did this mod tonight. Seems to be just what I needed! Thanks for the Idea
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