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Old 04-08-2014, 01:29 PM   #1
billbeemer OP
bozo on bus
Joined: May 2009
Location: Dunedin, Fl
Oddometer: 127
'03 r1150 header removal

will be removing my exhaust headers to ceramic coat. will i need heat, they have never been off? anything special i should know about loosening at the heads? thanks in advance.
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Old 04-08-2014, 01:55 PM   #2
Joined: Nov 2013
Location: Montreal
Oddometer: 1,613
Removal of the headers/cat/muffler shall be very easy. It is all stainless. Nonetheless be carefull with the two countersunk bolts that hold the cat unto the centerstand bracket. It may be rusted and you don't want to snap them if you intend to reinstall the cat. You may use a torch to heat up the thread and burn rust, or hammer the head to break the rust. If you are ditching the cat in favor of a Y-pipe, then it's not a problem if the bolt snaps ;-)
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Old 04-08-2014, 06:07 PM   #3
Ginger th wonder dog
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: The woods and mountains of Alabama
Oddometer: 10,815
I assume you'll remove only the pipes forward of the CAT. I have had mine off twice for cleaning and polishing but, I too am considering JET Hot coating of these pipes.

I start by flooding all the joints with WD40, loosen all the clamps and remove the nuts at the cylinder head flange. Save the gaskets for reuse.

The cast mounting flanges on my pipes are captive and cannot be removed.

I warn you not to use any hammer type tool on the pipes. They have become somewhat soft over the years and will dent easily.

Stuff rags into the exhaust openings on the engine. Wrap and pack the pipes well. I would insure them for transport to the coater.

Also, please provide before and after photos of the pipes.

The BMW boxer engines use exposed pipes rather than shields over steel pipes. As such, the factory finish deteriorates quickly after you operate the engine. Ceramic coating restores the luster and provides additional anti-corrosion benefits.

Also, once you get the pipes back, let us know of your satisfaction with the shop who did the work. Thank you.

PS; Will they do the clamps and header nuts as well?
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Old 04-08-2014, 06:47 PM   #4
Joined: Nov 2013
Location: Montreal
Oddometer: 1,613
Even though stainless doesn't stay shinny and will turn brown and dull, the finish can be restored very easily. You can wet sand the headers with fine 600 grit, then even finer grit to a mirror finish. You can finish off with an SOS pad...

Here's 10 minutes of wet sanding on 100,000 miles headers. Those are sanded with 600 grit. The clamps have been dipped in vinegar overnight to dissolve rust... Coke works just as well.

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Old 04-11-2014, 11:42 PM   #5
Dog Chauffeur
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Tacoma, WA-ish
Oddometer: 4,095
Bill--I realize I'm three days late to this party but wanted to share my thoughts.

I took off the headers on my '04 to get them coated. Here are some pics--

First, starting with the right side after one of the mounting studs shears, drill a small hole down the middle of the stud--

Then drill it out again with a larger bit, then once again with a 1/4" bit. Go slow and use drill lube. Including the time required to source drill bits that are hard enough to get through that broken stud, plan on 3 days. Actual drilling time about one hour.

Then tap it--

Install the timesert (you have the right-sized timesert on hand, right? If not, plan on three more days sourcing the timesert install kit)--

Install the new stud (you bought those already, right? If not, add 3 more days)--

Then move on over to the left head and repeat all of the above on the other stud that broke over on that side.

When the headers come back from Jet-Hot, you'll be ready for the re-install!

Here's what they look like all finished (I went with black satin)--

Fabulous, huh!

But seriously, I just had to say something after Lee's comment "Removal of the headers/cat/muffler shall be very easy." That was my experience--eazy-peezy! So glad I got it done!
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