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Old 05-15-2011, 05:26 PM   #16
FatChance
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Joined: Jun 2003
Location: Durango, Colorado, USA
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The HB bars are great. I only have to loosen them every 6000 miles for valve adjustment. But I ride with them everyday and chance having to use them for their intended purpose. Plus, it gives me one more opportunity to check that everything is snugged up proper-like. For me, it is a worthwhile trade-off.
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Old 05-15-2011, 06:15 PM   #17
Schlug
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Location: put something on and stay in that position.
Oddometer: 7,184
True enough. I have them as well and have to loosen them. By the bye, DO NOT loosen the bolt which Norsman highlighted in his photo-- there is no need and that bolt also holds up the subframe which makes installing and uninstalling that bolt a dangerous proposition.

Instead, remove your tank (one electrical connection, two QD's, two plug in hoses and a bolt-- one minute) and loosen the front mounting bolts instead. This allows plenty of spread and won't having you searching for a helicoil or timesert should you accidentally strip the threads out of that rear bolt Norsman shows.
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:59 AM   #18
ErricZ
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Location: Greenwood/Pasadena, NJ
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Not sure what the big deal is with these bars ... the left side was a bit of a bear but I put my jack under the footpeg for support and levered the subframe (and bolt) down GENTLY a tiny bit and it popped into the thread. Right side was even easier and nothing slipped out of alignment in the least, all three bolts in with ease -- just had to pull the front bar bolt hole and front frame mounting hole together whilst I got the bolt started.

I have the plastic valve cover protectors and the right side is snug up against that, so I'd imagine a bit of loosening is in order for service. I keep a large jar of CoppaSlip around like the Brits do, so that was an easy addition and very helpful I'm sure.

Torque is 40Nm for the (4) big M10 bolts and 25Nm for the (2) re-used M8s in the front.

Also, the middle bridge connector on mine has 2 bolt holes but only 1 bolt/nut was supplied. I'm sure a quick stop at Lowes/HD/Ace will solve that disparity in a jiffy.
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:49 AM   #19
GS Yinzer
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Location: Pixburg, PA
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Crash Bars n At

Thank guys... Looking to pick up a set of crash bars today for the new 1150 GS. This forum helped a bit. In a way it's down to HB vs SW-Motech. Anybody out there feel they can sway me one way or the other?
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:34 PM   #20
redwing51
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I've had both,and they both are fine, but prefer the Hepco-Becker bars. Its easier to change the oil with the HB bars. But I only need to change the oil once or twice a year (synthetic oil) so its not really a big deal with the SW MoTech bars.
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:17 AM   #21
pjgrunt
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Joined: Mar 2013
Location: Almost Level WV
Oddometer: 1
How about the TouraTech bars or the Altrider crashbars?

I traded my 2004 1150GS for a new 2012 GS last year and am in the market for crash bars. Wunderlich carries the HP bars, but for considerably more money you can get the Touratech (~$390) or Altrider ($457) crashbars and like the HP you can get them in black.
Does Anyone have any experience with this more expensive crash bars? Supposedly the Touratech are the bestselling crash bars.
thanks, paul w.
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Old 02-03-2014, 07:48 PM   #22
czechyour6
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Location: Orem, UT
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I can confirm this also, my buddy just recently pulled this left bolt, tried to put it back in and it must have cross threaded and BROKE! now we need to pull shaft out and try to machine it out or spend 125$ for a new one



Quote:
Originally Posted by Schlug View Post
True enough. I have them as well and have to loosen them. By the bye, DO NOT loosen the bolt which Norsman highlighted in his photo-- there is no need and that bolt also holds up the subframe which makes installing and uninstalling that bolt a dangerous proposition.

Instead, remove your tank (one electrical connection, two QD's, two plug in hoses and a bolt-- one minute) and loosen the front mounting bolts instead. This allows plenty of spread and won't having you searching for a helicoil or timesert should you accidentally strip the threads out of that rear bolt Norsman shows.
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Old 04-08-2014, 10:47 PM   #23
turbojugend208
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Joined: Apr 2012
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Crash

SW Motechs are a bit soft,been through two sets. Last set twisted up like a wind blown owl in a barb wired fence... H&B are super solid and take a beating, hands down the top of the food chain.
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Old 04-11-2014, 09:55 AM   #24
czechyour6
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Location: Orem, UT
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Link to my recent thread in case you want to modify them to make them service friendly, even if ya find them used!

http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...7#post23910307
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:29 PM   #25
Bob
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Interesting mod, thanks.
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