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Old 04-06-2014, 01:24 AM   #13981
Itchi
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Joined: Mar 2014
Oddometer: 7
missing oil?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rvt View Post
Good choice Itchi!
Now you need to bling it up, so you can tell it apart from the rest of ours.
See you on a Perth ride sometime.

Bling it up? other than some colour i am not sure what i'd do that hasnt already been done. lifted straight from the add:

"Fully kitted out Suzuki DR650 SE ready for any adventure. This bike is ready to go anywhere.

18L adventure fuel tank.
*Procycles jetting kit (dyno tuned at 39hp)
*RaceTech cartridge emulators +7.0 springs plus seals and oil.
*Procycles gold valve rear shock kit upgrade with 8.3 spring and oil
*B&B bash plate
*30mm handlebar risers plus oversize handlebars
*bark bustera with custom mounts
*lowered foot mounts with pivot foot pegs
*vapour digital odo with custom mount and custom mount for GPS
*heavy duty O-ring chain EK 525-120
*sprockets f 14T, r 42T
*High flow K&N filter and high flow oil filter.
*side racks to carry 2 Wolfman teton bags included
*rear tube/tool storage
*perspex headlight guard
*windshiels
"

I was thinking some tank decals. I want to call it Lion-hog. I have never really been into naming my vehicles but keen i think this is pretty appropriate.



Anyway i just put it through a service (mechanic wrecked my new helmet because i 'shouldn't have left it locked on the back' in the helmet lock apparently) and having it returned i notice that the oil reservoir window still doesn't show me enough oil when the bike is standing. I checked as soon as i left the garage. should i be at all concerned about this?

i'm in Sydney by the way.
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Old 04-06-2014, 01:33 AM   #13982
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Itchi View Post
.....................


*RaceTech cartridge emulators +7.0 springs plus seals and oil.
..............

and having it returned i notice that the oil reservoir window still doesn't show me enough oil when the bike is standing. I checked as soon as i left the garage. should i be at all concerned about this?

i'm in Sydney by the way.
0.7 fork springs

The oil should be as per the manual, preferably up near the upper line. There is a procedure in the manual for checking the oil, OTTMOH check 2 mins after shutting down. I found that it doesn't change, so cold level check is fine and what I do.
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Old 04-06-2014, 04:23 AM   #13983
Goosefeather
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
Oddometer: 835
Quote:
Originally Posted by Itchi View Post
i notice that the oil reservoir window still doesn't show me enough oil when the bike is standing. I checked as soon as i left the garage. should i be at all concerned about this?
Manual says three minutes, but key thing is held vertical, not on the stand.
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Old 04-07-2014, 12:34 AM   #13984
Itchi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goosefeather View Post
Manual says three minutes, but key thing is held vertical, not on the stand.


I know. it has the same glass view window as the spada. i have tried with a level and a block of wood and its pretty low despite having just come out of the mechanics.


The bike is from randwick, not coogee. Shes beautiful. i was pretty pleased no one had snapped her up before i got to her.
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Old 04-07-2014, 02:22 PM   #13985
Benz-in-Oz
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Location: Murrumbateman NSW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Itchi View Post


Anyway i just put it through a service (mechanic wrecked my new helmet because i 'shouldn't have left it locked on the back' in the helmet lock apparently) and having it returned i notice that the oil reservoir window still doesn't show me enough oil when the bike is standing. I checked as soon as i left the garage. should i be at all concerned about this?

i'm in Sydney by the way.
Top it up and change mechanics or better still do your own work.
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Old 04-09-2014, 03:27 AM   #13986
J_B
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Joined: May 2010
Location: Cottesloe - Western Australia
Oddometer: 287
dr 650 tank Required

anyone got a 20 L safari or Acerbis tank in white or Translucent sitting around that they would k=like to part with.

Can pick up in Perth or Sydney or pay postage
Cheers
JB
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Old 04-09-2014, 03:53 AM   #13987
Killa Meter
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Location: Clownsville
Oddometer: 265
Talking

Hey Itchi get hold of an owners manual and read it .Get rid of the K &N filter if your going to ride dirt.Buy a stock air filter or a uni , their cheap enough .Keep an eye on that chain for stretching , read the manual for proper adjustment. HAVE FUN!
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Old 04-10-2014, 12:57 AM   #13988
Thumper Dan
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Location: Australia, Northern NSW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killa Meter View Post
Hey Itchi get hold of an owners manual and read it .Get rid of the K &N filter if your going to ride dirt.Buy a stock air filter or a uni , their cheap enough .Keep an eye on that chain for stretching , read the manual for proper adjustment. HAVE FUN!
I've read you can 'hair nets' to put over stock filter which and then toss out when dusty/dirty and throw on a new one.
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Old 04-10-2014, 01:40 AM   #13989
B1
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Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Arse-trailer
Oddometer: 3,078
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
I've read you can 'hair nets' to put over stock filter which and then toss out when dusty/dirty and throw on a new one.
swimming pool filter covers work well too.
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Old 04-10-2014, 02:48 AM   #13990
kezzajohnson
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
Oddometer: 1,242
filter skin

Quote:
Originally Posted by B1 View Post
swimming pool filter covers work well too.
Chux cloths work well too. Roll a few up in your tool bag. They just stick to a well oiled filter and peel off as required, stick on a new one.
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Old 04-10-2014, 09:24 AM   #13991
motolab
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Oddometer: 2,174
Quote:
Originally Posted by Itchi View Post
*Procycles jetting kit (dyno tuned at 39hp)
I don't recommend the DynoJet needle that comes in the PC kit because:

1) It's a shape that is likely to produce significant variances in mixture strength throughout the rpm range (richer toward the bottom relative to the top).

2) It's made out of stainless steel which means more emulsion tube wear than with an aluminum needle.

3) It doesn't use the white plastic spacer under the clip, which means the needle is not preloaded in the downstream direction, and will therefore be more prone to orbiting/otherwise gyrating inside the emulsion tube. It also means that the needle will not be able to pivot out of the way as the slide guide wears. Both of these factors equate more emulsion tube wear.

Has the slide been drilled?
Quote:
*High flow K&N filter and high flow oil filter.
As others have noted, the K&N is not likely to filter adequately off road. The standard under-diaphragm vent filter is also inadequate and will contribute to accelerated slide guide, silde, emulsion tube and jet needle wear when the bike is ridden in dusty conditions. I recommend replacing the standard under-diaphragm vent filter with an oiled Uni UP-123.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 04-10-2014, 04:46 PM   #13992
dobbo
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Riverina
Oddometer: 933
Hi,

I thought I'd post this here, rather than the DR thread in the 'Thumper' section, where it would get lost in the pages rather quickly.


My 2008 DR650 (50,000 kilometres on the clock) has developed quite a rattle within the engine somewhere, which increases with an increase in revs (same if bike is warm or cold).
I never really noticed it, until a recent trip, where I had a couple of other DR650 riders comment about the rattle/noise in my bike's engine.

Bike has a High Compression piston fitted (From Procycles.us), which I did have trouble fitting the new cudgen pin, which took a little gentle persuasion to get it fitted.
The piston has been in the bike for about 20,000 kilometres now. (so I don't think this is the problem); although, I have notice it to be a little more 'rattley' since the piston went in, back then.

I always run a 10W-40 engine oil and 98 octane fuel.
Valve clearances are okay and within spec.
I remove the 'Bash-plate' to see if it was just the engine noise resonating from it; however, the rattle is still there.
NSU screws have been loctited in place.

Did anyone here, with a HC piston fitted notice an increase in engine noise...ie rattle ???

Can anyone give me a few suggestions on where to start looking, before dismantling the engine.

Any help would be appreciated,
thanks

Dobbo
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Old 04-10-2014, 04:48 PM   #13993
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 3,035
Cam chain , cam chain guide, tensioner?
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Old 04-10-2014, 05:38 PM   #13994
grrant1058
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
Oddometer: 320
Hi Dobbo,

On my 3rd DR and they have all been very quiet mechanically - until I fitted a High Compression piston. Clearance and everything is correct (fitted at 5,000 km's) but surprised how rattly it is. Noticeably more power and no oil consumption problems. Apparently not uncommon when fitting a forged piston.

Found the best solution is always wear my earplugs, otherwise I started seeing dollar signs!

Cheers - Ron

Quote:
Originally Posted by dobbo View Post
Hi,

Did anyone here, with a HC piston fitted notice an increase in engine noise...ie rattle ???

Any help would be appreciated,
thanks

Dobbo
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Old 04-10-2014, 05:40 PM   #13995
dobbo
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Riverina
Oddometer: 933
Thanks Donks,
that where I am heading...

Cam chain or the Cudgen pin.

Either way, head is coming off when I get time.

cheers
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