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Old 02-27-2006, 03:23 PM   #16
meat popsicle
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Location: Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CountPacMan
...

If you're replacing it anyway, you might as well upgrade to the switchable octane version.
The online parts dealer system lists a 99 and an 00 CDI for the 1999 LC4 - is the 00 the switchable version? I would guess the 03 and on would be a bad idea since the high flow head might alter the curve, but I am stepping out on a limb now...
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Old 02-27-2006, 04:38 PM   #17
CountPacMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
The online parts dealer system lists a 99 and an 00 CDI for the 1999 LC4 - is the 00 the switchable version? I would guess the 03 and on would be a bad idea since the high flow head might alter the curve, but I am stepping out on a limb now...
No, I believe the 99 version is what you might call Version 1.0 and should be part number 584.39.031.100

00 version is 584.39.031.200

Switchable version is 584.39.031.300

03 - current version is 584.39.031.500

what happened to ...400? I have no clue.

584.39.031.200 and 584.39.031.300 are identical in appearance except for the the .300 has the two extra wires for making the octane switch. The .500 version connects to the new wiring harness.

584.39.031.300 is not available in the USA. Its not even in dealer's computerized parts database, though it is in the parts manual. You need to order it from a European dealer like Sommer KTM in Germany. I think it was something like $240 with shipping.
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Old 02-27-2006, 04:48 PM   #18
bigtaters OP
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So, got out the tools and hooked everything back up. The buzzing noise is definitely coming from the CDI. Now, although the battery is fully charged, the electronics are acting like the battery is low. The headlight is dim, the turn signals light up but don't blink, and the bike won't crank at all - not even a clicking noise now. When I kick it, I get a spark at the plug. But, going by the earlier post, this may not mean a whole lot. I'll repost as things progress. Thanks for all the advice and help so far...

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Old 02-27-2006, 04:56 PM   #19
markjenn
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Sounds like the battery is shot. What makes you think it is "fully charged"? If you've got a voltmeter, what does it show the static battery charge is? I recall that a good battery fresh off a charger will usually be around 13V.

Motorcycle batteries will not tolerate very many deep discharge cycles before they're toast. Let them sit a week discharged and they're typically shot.

I honestly don't know what the problem is, but I always go for simple things like batteries and starters before fried CDI boxes. So I'm still betting on the sceanrio that you simply toasted the battery and starter in all the hard starting attempts.

- Mark
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Old 02-27-2006, 05:12 PM   #20
CountPacMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigtaters
So, got out the tools and hooked everything back up. The buzzing noise is definitely coming from the CDI.
It shouldn't be buzzing. The CDI is all solid state electronics... + the CDI has absolutly nothing to do with your lights/turn signals. Thats most likely your battery. Which might explain your hard starts even with a kick starter. How old is that battery? If more than 2 years, go ahead and replace it before you do anything else.

Here is a quick tip on starting the bike after its been sitting for a while: set your choke, and then hold in the decomp lever and crank the electric starter for a few seconds and then release the decomp while you keep the starter button pressed. It should fire right up.
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Old 02-27-2006, 05:23 PM   #21
gunnerbuck
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Just for the heck of it maybe do some wire tracing in case you have a short in the system. Look for bare wires or spots where wires may rub on the frame. The process of elimination may be the way to the problem.
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Old 02-27-2006, 05:41 PM   #22
bigtaters OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn
Sounds like the battery is shot. What makes you think it is "fully charged"? If you've got a voltmeter, what does it show the static battery charge is? I recall that a good battery fresh off a charger will usually be around 13V.

Motorcycle batteries will not tolerate very many deep discharge cycles before they're toast. Let them sit a week discharged and they're typically shot.

I honestly don't know what the problem is, but I always go for simple things like batteries and starters before fried CDI boxes. So I'm still betting on the sceanrio that you simply toasted the battery and starter in all the hard starting attempts.

- Mark
Yep, on my salary, I go for cheap, easy stuff first. CDI is going to be a last resort. Battery is four months old, and has been discharged and recharged approximately 5 or 6 times total. Sitting with the bike off, it is registering just over 12 volts. When it was running last, it was around 13 with the engine running. I obviously have some more troubleshooting to do, but am still fishing for ideas... More tomorrow evening - girlfriend is getting jealous of the KTM...

thanks,

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Old 08-10-2006, 12:42 AM   #23
Sycamore
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and?

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Old 08-10-2006, 02:07 PM   #24
bigtaters OP
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Laugh

Bike is up and running, although it still has a little stutter now and then. Here's what I eventually figured out once the bike stopped running altogether:

1. Battery charger was malfunctioning. Replaced it and got the voltage up on the battery, which allowed me to crank away.

2. Cleaned the carb quite a few more times, replaced the jets with new. Don't know that this helped anything beyond hands-on self education. Well, I have a nice set of jets now, so I can really tune it in when I decide to take the time...

3. CDI unit was fried. I replaced it, and this was the difference between almost running and not running at all. If everything else would have been in order at this point, I'm sure it would have been the difference between not running and running. (BTW - according to the local KTM folks, the only way to check it is to swap it out, unless you have some very specialized equipment, which they didn't. This means you find somebody who'll let you borrow thiers, or you purchase the nonrefundable part from KTM.)

4. Troubleshot the rest of the electrical system (thanks for the hook-up, Creeper) - no other problems.

5. The spark plug was shot by this point due to deposits. Cleaning didn't help much, and they're cheap, so I replaced it. This improved it from almost running to running, although pretty rough just off idle up to 1/4 throttle.

6. The floats were out of adjustment, and the o-ring that holds them in place was worn. So I replaced them with the float assembly from a spare carb I picked up along the way, and adjusted the position back to parallel. I reinstalled the hose clamps on the airbox side of the carb. This has taken it from running rough between idle and 1/4 throttle to where I am now - an occasional stutter in this throttle position.

So, I'm back to ridn' again. No more running rich, bike is running with the choke in the correct position, and it starts up on the first or second press of the button. Thanks for everybody here who pitched in some helpful advice.
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Old 08-21-2006, 01:07 PM   #25
meat popsicle
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my turn with the buzz~clicking - no joy button fun...

I will start with the battery diagnostics.
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Old 08-22-2006, 08:59 AM   #26
bigtaters OP
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Here's the last bit of info I think I will squeeze out of this experience:

Finally came across the old CDI unit in one of the boxes from my move. Went ahead and installed it in place of the new unit to see if it would work. It started buzzing when I turned on the ignition, and bike would not start. Reinstalled the new unit, no buzzing, and it fired right up. So... if the CDI unit itself is buzzing, then it may be on its last legs.
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Old 08-22-2006, 12:05 PM   #27
CountPacMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigtaters
So... if the CDI unit itself is buzzing, then it may be on its last legs.
Thanks for all your troubleshooting work. Thats handy info to have. I'll have to add though, that mine didn't buzz at all when it was dying. The bike just ran crappy for a bit (as if it was misfiring) then it died.
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