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Old 04-04-2014, 07:46 AM   #736
garthg
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Location: United States NorthEast
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New Fork Springs

Here, I part company with Supershaft, just based on my own experience restoring an R75/5. The bike had a heavy Luftmeister/Windjammer-type fairing on it in its past life, with about 40,000+ miles and original springs when I bought it. The springs were very sagged, such that on normal braking, the forks would bottom out and stay down.
A new set of OEM springs gave the fork a much more lively and connected feel and eliminated all the sagging.
New OEM springs are $43 apiece, $86 the pair. They'll certainly last at least years. As part of an overall restoration of a 40-year old bike, it's not a killer expense.
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Old 04-05-2014, 01:39 PM   #737
supershaft
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Just to clarify. I am not even suggesting that springs don't sag out. I am saying that in my experience it is extremely rare. I have worked on a lot of old bikes and I have yet to see springs in as bad of shape as garthg describes.
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Old 04-13-2014, 01:37 AM   #738
chasbmw
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Back in the day it was SOP with /6s to remove stock springs and replace with BMW hard.
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Old 04-13-2014, 01:41 AM   #739
chasbmw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Square1 View Post
Three questions

Question #1: Is this right?

I bought the bike used, and have not had the forks apart. I am assuming it has the original springs, but I won't know until I pull things apart.

The most expensive items in the conversion/rebuild seems to be new stock springs.

Question #2: Is there a test to see if the current spring is still up to spec, i.e., measurement of length?

Question #3: Who has the best prices for new springs that would work with the Race Tech kit?


I just finished the fine tuning on My 92 R100R.
I got the Gold valve emulators and the matching fork springs direct from Race Tech.
It was around $300.
Their website is very informative and matches your Bike/Model with the right product.

http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/...00%20R/1991-95

My main complaint was that the stock set up was to "harsh" / " hard".
After some trials I ended up with the 0.90kg Fork Spring, 10mm pre load spacer, the softer blue spring on the gold valve, two extra holes drilled to the Gold Valves and 20W fork oil.

You have to do your homework and be willing to take the Gold valves in and out a few time to make the adjustments.
Its not that hard!
They also offer a rebuilt service.


M
I think that The Racetech suggested settings for BMWs are not right, and I don't think that they have fully cottoned on that there are at least 3 different sets of fork internals used in airheads. If going down the Racetech route you need to be prepared to set up your forks from first principals.
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Old 04-17-2014, 07:15 PM   #740
jackafrica
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Joined: Sep 2003
Location: 42 degrees south, Tasmania
Oddometer: 428
Brake light switch on master cylinder, under tank.1975 on /6/7

The original switch number WAS 34 31 1 233 959
Replaced with P/N 61 31 1 244 334

Compatible with P/N 113945515H
This is a Porsche, VW part number.

Original switch is $33, replacement switch non genuine, found under that number $5.
Can be found on ebay or google search the part numbers.

The switch should be a 2 pin type.

Hope this helps.
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Old 04-17-2014, 08:19 PM   #741
Kai Ju
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^^^
Thanks, nice find.
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Old 04-27-2014, 06:21 PM   #742
jackafrica
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Peanut Rocker Cover Comparo. Genuine v Replica

There's a choice of rockers covers out there for sale.
Genuine BMW @ $120Au each.
Replica aftermarket @ $60each

Both are supplied with studs, the cheaper one you have to fit the studs.
Threads in the replica are not the same class as the genuine, Loctite cures all.

The materials used appear similar.
Quality of finish is better for the genuine. Centre hole finish on the replica could be better, though will not be seen. You pay for quality control.



There is a difference in the construction.
The replica has a different centre stud reinforcement profile.
The finish of the gasket surface is superior with the genuine.




Finer milled finish and scraped on the genuine which is at the right in the image below. Both measure flat on my granite surface plate.



Size isn't everything?
Dunno, the replica is thicker in the face side to the original.
If you're OCD you'll need a matching pair.



The finish on the side of the fins which you see when you gaze lovingly is rounded on the genuine, rough ground on the replica.




You pay your money and make your choice.
Hope this makes it easier for fellow owners.
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Old 04-27-2014, 09:26 PM   #743
Beemerboff
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There is more than one supplier and style of replica.

I bought the type with through bolts instead of studs, make fixing a breeze but they are thin, they will dent with a fall of the side stand and would not survive an "off" at virtually any speed.

So if survival is important stick with the early, thick , square shaped covers!
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Old 04-27-2014, 09:37 PM   #744
jackafrica
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemerboff View Post
There is more than one supplier and style of replica.

I bought the type with through bolts instead of studs, make fixing a breeze but they are thin, they will dent with a fall of the side stand and would not survive an "off" at virtually any speed.

So if survival is important stick with the early, thick , square shaped covers!

The comparison is with genuine BMW rounded style, which isn't any thicker than the replica. Square covers aren't mentioned or compared.

If survival is important invest in crash bars!

These same covers are available from Uli's, Siebenrock, Paulus and Meyer in Germany, Capitol Cycle in the USA. Major suppliers.
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jackafrica screwed with this post 04-27-2014 at 09:47 PM
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Old 04-27-2014, 10:14 PM   #745
Wirespokes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackafrica View Post
Thanks Jack!

You know, the originals (not the BMW covers in this pic) most of the time had the edges of the fins ground just like the replica.

I didn't know the internal webbing/reinforcing was different. I'll have to check that out.
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Old 04-28-2014, 10:19 PM   #746
Big Bamboo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackafrica View Post
There's a choice of rockers covers out there for sale.
Genuine BMW @ $120Au each.
Replica aftermarket @ $60each

Both are supplied with studs, the cheaper one you have to fit the studs.
Threads in the replica are not the same class as the genuine, Loctite cures all.

The materials used appear similar.
Quality of finish is better for the genuine. Centre hole finish on the replica could be better, though will not be seen. You pay for quality control.



There is a difference in the construction.
The replica has a different centre stud reinforcement profile.
The finish of the gasket surface is superior with the genuine.




Finer milled finish and scraped on the genuine which is at the right in the image below. Both measure flat on my granite surface plate.



Size isn't everything?
Dunno, the replica is thicker in the face side to the original.
If you're OCD you'll need a matching pair.


The finish on the side of the fins which you see when you gaze lovingly is rounded on the genuine, rough ground on the replica.




You pay your money and make your choice.
Hope this makes it easier for fellow owners.
It seems there is more than one source for aftermarket valve covers. these are the cheap ones sold by Hucky, S.Meyer and others. While the studs come uninstalled, the fins, depth etc is identical to covers with the BMW logo inside.
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Old 05-02-2014, 12:41 PM   #747
jjwithers
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Thumbs down

EDIT - Motobins contacted me and refunded me the cost of the faulty parts.

jjwithers screwed with this post 07-25-2014 at 10:17 PM
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:13 PM   #748
DoktorT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjwithers View Post
And sending this stuff from CA to the UK on my dime is a bad deal.
Yes, which is a known condition prior to ordering outside country. If there is a problem, all of a sudden the low price becomes an expense well beyond proven local suppliers costs. You are playing the odds. What are the odds that I will save enough cost with discounted import parts to pay for the extra costs when 1 in 10 parts is not suitable to purpose?
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Old 05-06-2014, 08:35 PM   #749
jackafrica
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Be Aware Of Motobins Nondisclosure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjwithers View Post
On the topic of valve covers, DO NOT order the reproduction valve covers from Moto Bins. Especially the chrome ones. They are terrible. You can read about my terrible experiences with Moto Bins here:

http://beemersandbits.com/2014/05/motobins-fail-dont-order-from-them/

The only reason I am flaming them out in public is because they have not responded to my concerns.
And sending this stuff from CA to the UK on my dime is a bad deal.
Here's another one.
MotoBins offer owners manuals and handbooks.
Nowhere do they say they are reprints.
Poor reprints at that. Paper is ordinary, text and images are less sharp than the original.

What galls me is the page heading suggesting the manuals are original.
Stupid me for thinking they MIGHT be ORIGINAL. Fail.



There are other examples such as offering "genuine" BMW oil filters and air filters, which are in fact Mahle. Genuine BMW parts come in a BMW marked box, with the part number.
Mahle might be the OEM (original equipment manufacturer), but the item offered for sale is suggested to be "genuine".




Then there are the rear wheel seals for the /6 & /7 twins.
Motobins offer a generic, single lip seal for the RH and a total rubbish seal, nothing like the original for the left side.
Nowhere, do they suggest these offerings are not of the same quality or TYPE as the original.
The original left side is a complex dust seal offering protection to the wheel bearing from the elements, similarly for the right side.

On phoning Motobins, their reply was "you're the first person who has ever complained before and we've sold thousands". Suggesting of course that I must be wrong.
I tried to explain the subtleties of quality and function offered by the original, but this fell on deaf ears. The salesperson offered exactly the same reply.."you're etc.".

Like jjwithers, I could go on, but won't. Folks, just be aware of what you're probably buying when dealing with Motobins.
They might be good for some things, but be careful.

I'm not thrilled.
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Old 05-06-2014, 09:17 PM   #750
RagerToo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackafrica View Post
Here's another one.
MotoBins offer owners manuals and handbooks.
Nowhere do they say they are reprints.
Poor reprints at that. Paper is ordinary, text and images are less sharp than the original.

What galls me is the page heading suggesting the manuals are original.
Stupid me for thinking they MIGHT be ORIGINAL. Fail.


There are other examples such as offering "genuine" BMW oil filters and air filters, which are in fact Mahle. Genuine BMW parts come in a BMW marked box, with the part number.
Mahle might be the OEM (original equipment manufacturer), but the item offered for sale is suggested to be "genuine".

Then there are the rear wheel seals for the /6 & /7 twins.
Motobins offer a generic, single lip seal for the RH and a total rubbish seal, nothing like the original for the left side.
Nowhere, do they suggest these offerings are not of the same quality or TYPE as the original.
The original left side is a complex dust seal offering protection to the wheel bearing from the elements, similarly for the right side.

On phoning Motobins, their reply was "you're the first person who has ever complained before and we've sold thousands". Suggesting of course that I must be wrong.
I tried to explain the subtleties of quality and function offered by the original, but this fell on deaf ears. The salesperson offered exactly the same reply.."you're etc.".

Like jjwithers, I could go on, but won't. Folks, just be aware of what you're probably buying when dealing with Motobins.
They might be good for some things, but be careful.

I'm not thrilled.
Yup, been there, done that too. Fortunately, I worked auto parts for a short while. I've perused seal and bearing crossover books.

I had an alternator for my car rebuilt by a local fella last year. Fairly well regarded, he's done other work for me and some friends. What do I see when I go to install my "rebuilt" alt? A fricking G/D chinese bearing. Swell, what-an-asshole.

And on the rear end of my truck, many years ago I swapped in a new disk brake rotor. Pull the axle, blaa blaa, et cetera. Duals and all that. My regular parts store sells me a 'replacement' wheel seal. Mmm, simple lip seal. Thanks, which immediately started leaking. Then several days later sold me a floating seal, which I've at least once, reused with no issues.
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