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Old 04-21-2014, 07:55 AM   #1
therealbatman OP
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Neutral Light question 787' R100/7

The neutral light comes on when the clutch lever is pulled in and goes out when the lever is out.

The neutral light, lights when in neutral.

Any ideas?
TYIA
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:40 AM   #2
Peanuts
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Something wrong with the diode.

That's what the diode is there for, it allows the clutch switch or the neutral switch to let the starter relay do its thing, but only the neutral switch brings on the neutral light as just the neutral switch and neutral light are down stream of the diode.
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:41 AM   #3
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Just fixed a similar problem on my /6. Might work for you, too.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=929
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Old 04-21-2014, 01:37 PM   #4
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Thanks LonerDave....

By chance would you have a photo of what you did?

Electrical stuff just baffles me, (even though it may be simple to most) and I do not want to fry my wiring harness.

Thank you.
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Old 04-21-2014, 02:50 PM   #5
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I knew I should have taken a pic before I closed it back up! Will try to remember tonight.
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Old 04-22-2014, 09:39 AM   #6
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Assuming that your fuse block is similar to mine, find the terminal marked LKK. Located in brown/black section near lower right corner.



If you were to flip the board over, you'd see the diode we want to "replace". Note that it connects terminal LKK to terminal 85b, and that the stripe on the diode is towards LKK.



Here's a crummy pic of the diode and connectors. I used a Radio Shack 3 amp 400 volt diode, but I think you can use 1 amp (Bill Harris says the diode is numbered 1N4001 -a 1A diode). Attach a female spade connector to the end of the diode that DOES NOT have the stripe, and a male connector to the end with the stripe.



I folded the leads coming out if the diode, inserted them into the connectors and crimped. Then, for that hacker touch, wrapped the whole assembly with duct tape (for insulation and some structural strength).

Then unplugged the brown/black wires going to LKK, slid diode assembly onto male connector at LKK, and attached brown/black wires that used to go to LKK. Hard to see in this pic, but it fits between brown/black wires and terminal on fuse block.

Hope it helps.

Dave

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Old 04-22-2014, 11:07 AM   #7
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Thanks a bunch....I'll be stopping at Radio Shack this week.
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Old 01-08-2015, 08:53 PM   #8
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Sorry, but I'm a little confused. Couldn't you just unsolder the old diode and solder in a new one?

roy
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Old 01-08-2015, 09:41 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by flemsmith View Post
Sorry, but I'm a little confused. Couldn't you just unsolder the old diode and solder in a new one?
Yes. You could. Unfortunately removing the board means all the plugin wires have to come off, two bolts .. then remove diode, put new one on, two bolts and wires back on. An add on diode is less work. And it is how it is done on later models.

Your choice.
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Old 01-08-2015, 09:42 PM   #10
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Yes, he could, but his solution is a lot simpler than pulling the entire board out. The diode in the board is still making a connection. The diode is just now acting like a check valve that is stuck open. It is letting flow go in both directions. He is just adding in another check valve further down the pipe where it is a bit easier to access.
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Old 01-08-2015, 09:44 PM   #11
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You beat me to it.
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:15 PM   #12
Big Bamboo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warin View Post
Yes. You could. Unfortunately removing the board means all the plugin wires have to come off, two bolts .. then remove diode, put new one on, two bolts and wires back on. An add on diode is less work. And it is how it is done on later models.

Your choice.
Yeah, if your test shows a bad diode, I'm leaning towards pulling it all out to do it right and check and clean all the connections in the meanwhile. My board doesn't have any spare plugs in the brown yellow & brown black areas. I have another bucket without the extra holes drilled in it too. hmmm There's only like, what... 50 wires in there. What could go wrong? I think I better disconnect the ground wire...
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Old 01-09-2015, 03:35 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by LonerDave View Post
Here's a crummy pic of the diode and connectors. I used a Radio Shack 3 amp 400 volt diode, but I think you can use 1 amp (Bill Harris says the diode is numbered 1N4001 -a 1A diode).

Shouldn't that be a 3 amp 40 volt diode?
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Old 01-10-2015, 03:15 PM   #14
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If the diode rating is over

say 20 volts
umm .. 3watts 12v = 3/12 = .25 A .. allow surge for cold light say 0.6 Amps

then things will be fine.
The 1N4001 are common and cheap. Finding one to exactly match the original speck is a waste of time ... it is not a critical component electrically.

Warin screwed with this post 01-10-2015 at 07:11 PM Reason: Fixed formular error
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