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Old 05-08-2014, 06:43 AM   #31
Bowber
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Kirkby Stephen, Cumbria, UK
Oddometer: 97
Yes I've done it but with a DR350 that'd done loads of miles, and it was a last ditch attempt to see if it was the valve stem seals leaking oil before I took it to bits.
Use band new string/rope not some that's been laying around getting dirty.

Steve
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Old 05-08-2014, 07:38 PM   #32
pdxmotorhead
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Portland OR
Oddometer: 570
The Dacron does not compress very well that's why it works, you can also use Kevlar Pull cord from a electrician supply house, its very stiff as well.

Random tip of the day,, Electricians pull cord is great for carrying for pulling stuff out of holes and such.. the 1/4 inch stuff is hell for stout and you can put a bunch of it in a tuna can size container..
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:55 PM   #33
Sporting Wood
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Horneytown, NC
Oddometer: 871
Its possible to swap seals without removing the heads...

Roll it to tdc, install a compression tester hose in the plug hole and connect the other side to compressed air. Pressurize the cylinder 35lbs or so. Place the spring under a press, depress and remove keeps. Pull apart, add new seal, do the rest.
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Old 05-09-2014, 02:47 PM   #34
Peanuts
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: UK
Oddometer: 1,458
Some random points which may help....

The KTM manual is a really good step by step manual.

I find it easier to mark the flywheel for tdc front and tdc rear against a mark on the neighbouring crank case, makes it easy when turning the crank to the next tdc.

The tappet buckets are in a deep pocket which must not be marked by your valve spring compressor, make sure there are no sharp edges.

You need a 46mm or 1 13/16" AF socket for the balancer shaft nut.

Check the camchain tensioner gap as per the manual to see how worn are your chains.

Piston rings have a mark on the top, a dot or circle.
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