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Old 06-15-2014, 08:06 AM   #1
keener OP
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leaking radiator, 950

the fan housing been rubbing the rad and has mad a pin hole.

Any solution other than replacing the rad? local shop says bike rads are too tin to weld.

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Old 06-15-2014, 08:20 AM   #2
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Looks like a job for JB weld; clean around it well, wipe it off with isopropyl then the JB. Then you need to find out why the shroud is rubbing.
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:31 AM   #3
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:37 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maoule View Post
Looks like a job for JB weld; clean around it well, wipe it off with isopropyl then the JB. Then you need to find out why the shroud is rubbing.
Will JB weld be good enough as a long term fix?

I have no idea why the shroud is touching the rad. It looks like there is about one or two mm gap but vibration causes occasion touch. I checked eveything well.

Bike has 75000km. The fan shroud and its mounting points look nice and straight.

This might be happening to your bike too. Worth checking.

any solution beside jb weld? just curious.
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Old 06-15-2014, 11:01 AM   #5
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keener,
my suggested order of preference for your repair is:
  1. find a better radiator repair place! This should pose little or no problem to an experienced welder.
  2. Brazing with one of the low-temp aluminium 'repair' products such as "Durafix" or "Alumiweld"... look here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehMJPQ9ShyU
  3. Crimp the damaged tube closed in a few places (but only if you can get sufficient access).
  4. An internal radiator leak sealant like "K-seal".
  5. An external epoxy putty like "JB Weld".
In my opinion the external epoxy solution is the least likely to be reliable, but it may work. If you really want to risk it, I suggest you combine 4 and 5 to increase your chances of success.


There's always the possibility of buying a replacement too, if it all goes horribly wrong!



Good luck.


Cheers... Paul
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Old 06-15-2014, 12:15 PM   #6
AdvRonski
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I had the exact same issue 2 years ago, and posted about it so others could check for a clearance problem, but a single post goes away so quickly, it's so easy to miss.
Check it out here.
I should have just sent it to Myler's, but I used it as a opportunity to try some low-temp aluminum welding myself.
Even though I practiced on a car radiator first, I still ended up melting the tube too far back to get a good seal.
A new radiator is about $300 from Powersports Warehouse.
At least, it was 2 years ago.
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Old 06-15-2014, 09:54 PM   #7
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I wish I knew about this so I could prevent it.

Those supetaloy low temp welding kits are $60. I tried jb weld but it didn't hold up against the coolant pressure in the rad.

I cleaned it up by blasting the area with baking soda through a tube with air compressor. it works great. just like sand blasting but with baking soda powder. no need for grinder.

Ill talk to the local shop again tomorrow. i might have to buy the kit.
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Old 06-15-2014, 10:01 PM   #8
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Myler's

6722 S Airport rd
West Jordan UT 84084

801-955-3881

Fast turn around, never had an issue with his work..
I have sent him some pretty hammered radiators and they have come back dam near perfect........
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Old 06-16-2014, 04:29 PM   #9
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Laugh What he said ^^^

Quote:
Originally Posted by KTMSER View Post
Myler's

6722 S Airport rd
West Jordan UT 84084

801-955-3881

Fast turn around, never had an issue with his work..
I have sent him some pretty hammered radiators and they have come back dam near perfect........
+ about a hundred. Good folks, good work, fast. And in most cases what I've seen come back from them was better that factory.

http://www.motorcycleradiators.com/
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:28 PM   #10
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Thx for the contact. I am in Canada.

I found a low temp aluminum welding kit from a HVAC supply store for $20

First try failed. I just retried with more material and less flux. I think it will hold. I haven't tested it yet. I ran out of distilled water.
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Old 06-18-2014, 08:59 PM   #11
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I checked my shroud today..sure enough it has a bit of play/looseness ~1mm. I could feel that it was touching the rad fins when pushing it forward. Here's what I did:
It's a piece of rubber belting ~ 3 x 10 x 60mm (I suppose you could use anything). I pulled the shroud back and slipped the rubber piece in. That took up the free play and keeps it away from the radiator.
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Old 06-20-2014, 06:24 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maoule View Post
I checked my shroud today..sure enough it has a bit of play/looseness ~1mm. I could feel that it was touching the rad fins when pushing it forward. Here's what I did:
It's a piece of rubber belting ~ 3 x 10 x 60mm (I suppose you could use anything). I pulled the shroud back and slipped the rubber piece in. That took up the free play and keeps it away from the radiator.
That's a wise thing to do. I went the other way. Using a sharp knife I shaved off about 1/8" where the shroud comes close to the rad.

So now it rests only on the two pins in the bottom and the single screw at the top.

My analysis is that the shroud doesn't touch the rad all the time. It comes to contact with it on big bumps. That's why it take a long time to wear the rad pipe off and development pin hole.

This should be on everyone' s MUST CHECK list. I have an 04 with 75000km.

I'm still trying to weld the damn rad with low temp welding stuff. Its very difficult to get it right. You have to be very quick. I have done welding before. I'm on my 5th attempt! Just when you think its seals and bolt it back on it leaks just a tiny bit.
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Old 06-20-2014, 07:13 AM   #13
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That is why Myler's was recommended.
I have been TIG welding aluminum for 20 years, and have repaired radiator tanks before. These cores are ultra-thin, and after several attempts with a couple of different low temp kits, I had managed to turn a pinhole into a 10mm long gash.
At least with a brand new radiator and a 2nd fan, I haven't had any more overheating issues.
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Old 06-20-2014, 07:45 AM   #14
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A brand new radiator from Munn is $340. Don't think it comes with all new fittings and cap.

Here's how I see it:

For the cost of repairing the radiator at a repair shop, plus the milage that is on the radiator at the time people are seeing this crop up, I would just replace the radiator completely with a new unit.

I believe that's better than a hack JB weld fix that isn't permanent and may leave you stranded in the future. Plus, you could fix that leak and another may crop up soon. It's a risk I would not take because any overheating shortens the lifespan of the engine.
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Old 06-20-2014, 03:58 PM   #15
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well thats exactly what happened to me. I tried and tried and hole got bigger. You basically have one or two shots at it.

I posted a WTB ad on flea market hopelessly. Got a response within minutes from an inmate in Utah for a brand new rad at a good price. Its on its way to Canada now.

The old rad is actually in a very good condition if it wasn't because of the damn shroud rubbing against it.
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