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Old 06-26-2014, 12:54 AM   #1
skandero OP
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950 adv sudden engine stop

Hi, guys. Got a problem with my adv 950 - sudden engine stoping.
What happens: when I ride, looks like things going good (only one time I heard, that the engine lost the ignition, of course it was a great shot from the exhaust). But sometimes when I am going to stop at crossroads or just stop anywhere the engine may suddenly stop, just like killswitch is engaged.
The electric is on when it happens.
First of all: carbs are clean and synchronized, battery is good and it's almost new (it's Shorai LiFe), no fuses blown.
Second: sometimes when the engine shuts off I just need to press starter button to go. But sometimes I need to turn the ignition key off and on again, because there is no reaction to the start button!

What were my thoughts:
1. Faulty wire loom end at the starter relay. But I replaced the connectors last autumn. And I will have to touch the connection if it is mechanically lost, haven't I? The replacement was made due to corrosion lead for sudden engine stop... But now this joint looks good.
2. Faulty fuse contacts/bad fuse. Cleaned, fuse replaced - the problem still here.
3. Faulty killswitch contacts. Reassembled, cleaned - no way.
4. Bad ignition lock. Sounds impossible... Lost contact in case of vibration? Kekeke.

So, where should I look further? My ideas are:
- Side stand switch. Shaked it, when the bike is on the center stand - no impropper reaction. Kills when engaged, but not on vibration.
- Clutch switch. AFAIK, the previous owner rode with the switch mounted, but not worked - the starter can not be activated even the lever is pulled and gear engaged. Bad switch. So do I - rode the same way. How can I test this possible reason? Can I just cut off the wire to the switch?

Oh, just forgotten: canisters are off, air system is off - no shitty sensors, no ecology.

Any other ideas?

Ivan
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skandero screwed with this post 06-26-2014 at 01:01 AM
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Old 06-26-2014, 01:40 AM   #2
Pete640
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Check your valves. They may (will) be tight
When I first got my bike it would just shut off when I slowed or stopped at stop signs/traffic lights. After looking for every other possibility I did a valve service and the fr+r exhausts were tight. Once that was fixed its run like a dream..
If its happening when your going over large bumps etc then check the sidestand springs or the carb slides (vac bellows).
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Old 06-26-2014, 01:53 AM   #3
skandero OP
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Thanks, Pete!
Can You explain, why the valves may become tight? I can understand, why they are going loose, but tight?
Done my last valve service about 18k km ago.

But how can we explain that sometimes the starter button can not be activated, if the ignition key is not reengaged?

UPD:
Removed dead clutch switch, going to test, but seems that it is not the root - if the bike can not start without switch engaged either without a switch at all, but shifts well in both cases, we can say that the switch is completely out of the problem.
Connections in the ignition loom are good, inspected them one more time.

Don't know, what to look for... Valves? But I told about ignition symptoms. So, the only simple thing is to blow the ignition lock with the air and put some wiring spray there...
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skandero screwed with this post 06-26-2014 at 03:46 AM
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Old 06-26-2014, 04:34 AM   #4
geez996
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Most probably the side stand switch....
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Old 06-26-2014, 06:28 AM   #5
skandero OP
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Okay..
Now tested:
1. Faulty wire loom end at the starter relay. - ?
2. Faulty fuse contacts/bad fuse. - no, replaced
3. Faulty killswitch contacts. - no, tested with new
4. Bad ignition lock. - ? cleaned, will see
5. Side stand switch. - no,tested
6. Clutch switch. - no, not affected

Found this:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...=890096&page=2

And after the second inspection of relay contacts (small) I seen, that one of them is corroded and almost broken just near the relay body. Looks like it was bent and got a crack, that "accumulates" corrosion...
Now I'm going to replace the relay with new one for V-Strom (I will have it in two days, not a week). Hope, that's it.
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Old 06-26-2014, 10:19 AM   #6
maloryII
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I had a similar issue - my engine would randomly shut off when riding and then restart as if nothing had happened. It would do this in the space of a second or two.

Eventually the intervals between the engine firing back up again were longer and longer and it left me stranded a few times.

It turned out to be corrosion on the contacts inside the ignition barrel. The motor thought it was being switched on and off. I doused the guts of the ignition barrel in contact cleaner (insert straw into key hole & spray) and I haven't had a problem since.

Might be worth a shot.
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Old 06-26-2014, 11:11 AM   #7
Boatman
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Could be as simple as the idle set too low. What is your idle speed? Manual says 1400 rpm. I've gone as low as 1350 but lower than that and it will randomly quit just as you describe.
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Old 06-26-2014, 11:29 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boatman View Post
Could be as simple as the idle set too low. What is your idle speed? Manual says 1400 rpm. I've gone as low as 1350 but lower than that and it will randomly quit just as you describe.
Second that. On the drive home from buying mine is pulled off the highway and up to a stoplight and it died. Thought it was in trouble but it was just idle adjusted too low.
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Old 06-26-2014, 09:40 PM   #9
Zuber
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Dirty ignition switch is a common problem on the 950's. The 990's have a common broken wire on the ignition switch.
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Old 06-26-2014, 10:46 PM   #10
skandero OP
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Thanks for the ideas!
So, I've cleaned with gasoline, air and contact spray the connector and starter relay - seems that it helps. No more stops (rode today about 70km). But there was a problem - I saw, that when the rubber seal is installed inside the connector, it can not be completely locked on the relay socket. When I remove the seal, the socket locks with click.
What is wrong with this seal and is there any way to solve this? Looks like the lock pin is damaged, and can not hold the connector in the socket, when seal is inside...
Is there a way to get a new connector (e.g. it is compatible with some car or other electrics)?

Will clean the switch too.

BTW, thougth aboul too low RPM, but it's about 1400 when engine is hot.
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