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Old 07-04-2014, 07:46 AM   #61
FJ_Kevin OP
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I did finally get around to swapping the wheels over. And I have learned a few things about these and the later Husky wheels that I thought I would share.

First is the original 17" wheel that came on the bike. It was in worst condition than I initially recognized. In fact, not only were the spokes severely rusted, but closer inspection revealed the rim has a crack along an outside lip as well.



From the photo, you can see this era Husky used a conical style hub with the sprocket and brake drum on the same side. The conical hub is supposed to be lighter than a full width hub but results in unequal tension on the spoke. The rim is a Nordisk 17 x 2.50 made in Norway and the gold finish is painted rather than anodized as is usually the case.

One thing that was not very well thought out was the placement of the sprocket bolts. As seen in the next photo, the bolts are placed such that the nuts have little clearance to the hub flange. This makes it difficult to get a wrench on them. In this case, I will have to cut the nuts loose as the nuts are rounded a bit and well frozen.



And the rim crack.



looks like I am missing a photo... will have to come back to this!
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Old 07-04-2014, 01:53 PM   #62
Scootern29
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The 1980 390 motor is actually 412cc as told to me by George Erl at Uptite Husqvarna.
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Old 07-06-2014, 06:07 PM   #63
FJ_Kevin OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scootern29 View Post
The 1980 390 motor is actually 412cc as told to me by George Erl at Uptite Husqvarna.
I had not heard this. The motor in my "1980" 390 is actually a '78... too bad.

Something I thought I heard was that the cylinder studs were place further apart on the 1980 model and so the base gasket will not interchange.

Then there is the 420 motor on the automatic. I wonder what the difference was between that and the 390? Bore, stroke or both?
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=772033

My Vintage Husqvarna/Motocross Restoration Extravaganza Thread
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=964670
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Old 07-15-2014, 06:02 PM   #64
FJ_Kevin OP
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Ok, found some photos I was looking for.

So again, here is the sprocket side of the old conical hub with little sprocket bolt clearance,



And here is a view of the sprocket bolt on the later, non-conical Husky wheel. You can see it is easier to get a wrench on this one.



Here is the later 18" wheel I am using with a better view of the improved hub. I did not measure them but you can see the spoke lengths are much more similar side to side. The spokes themselves are in much better shape also.



However, I did find a problem in a couple of these later model hubs I have around. It turned out that two of the hubs I came across had loose fitting wheel bearings on the drive side.

Here is an example of a wheel with the bearing. Apparently the hub is soft or not well supported at the bearing and the diameter has opened to the point where there is no interference fit whatsoever. It just falls out of the hub once the wheel is turned on its side . Non of the old conical hubs I have show this problem.





How common this is I do not know. I suppose I could shim it somehow or maybe bore and re-sleeve it.
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My Vintage Husqvarna/Motocross Restoration Extravaganza Thread
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=964670

FJ_Kevin screwed with this post 07-15-2014 at 06:28 PM
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:12 AM   #65
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Nice job on the build and documentation Kevin. Your thread will be a historical reference for years to come.

On the loose wheel bearing, it seems like sleeving the hub would be reasonably do-able if the rim were removed. I've also heard that Loctite makes a product for fitting loose bearings, but I don't have any first hand experience with it.

Kevin

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Old 07-17-2014, 10:01 PM   #66
mikey413
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I remember using a centerpunch on the face of the hub to tighten the wheel bearings. Install the bearing, then centerpunch 4 times. It worked 30 years ago, should work now. Great thread, wish I could stop by and help.
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Old 07-19-2014, 01:40 AM   #67
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I used that bearing stick once,a Loctite product on a Ducati.It lasted approx 600ks,I felt a bang and the wheel locked for a second.I had no idea that it was the bearing braking loose,taking bits of the hub with it.Discovered the result 300ks later all on the same trip when smoke started pissing out of the hub.Thats what happens when the rear drum brake becomes a surrogate wheel bearing.The hub was toast with the bearing hole flogged out by a good extra 20mmWho knows what I did wrong,but I started adding a bit of grease to axles after this.Might have helped add some slip in an emergency,again don't know..
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Old 07-19-2014, 10:06 AM   #68
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loose bearing

If the bearing isn't too loose in the hub, I've gone round the inside face before with half a dozen centre punch marks and a smear of quick metal.
Put in a new bearing and keep an eye on it, grease it etc.
Sounds rough but it will last.
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Old 07-20-2014, 05:29 AM   #69
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Loctite makes a product that's specifically made for taking up space and mounting bearings.... '609'..... gotta RAD cush hub on my KTM that the bearings aren't that tight in... the 609 product seems to work good.... dunno how loose yours are?.....
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Old 07-24-2014, 05:13 PM   #70
Kevin K
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Is it worth to fit a rear wheel from a 82/83 Honda CR
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Old 07-24-2014, 09:30 PM   #71
mikey413
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I would stick with the Husky wheel, cut 45 degree angle slots across the brake shoes in 4 places and arc the shoes for maximum contact with the drum. Make sure the brake cam is well lubed and free moving. Keep that baby as original as possible.

Mikey
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Old 07-25-2014, 04:10 PM   #72
GoThere@50
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If no quick fix -

Kevin,

The previous Loctite suggestions would certainly be easier and less expensive if the hub clearance hasn't grown too large. If that's not enough assurance for you atmospheric plasma spraying can be done on magnesium (I was surprised). You would need a shop that performs this process on a regular basis and that has experience with magnesium. I have witnessed it done on steel and the results were impressive. I'm not sure how the cost would compare to trying to locate another (in tolerance) Husky hub though. Of course, with this process the hub would have to be centered and re-bored as well. It wouldn't be cheap.
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Old 07-26-2014, 08:53 PM   #73
FJ_Kevin OP
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Thanks for all the suggestions, I appreciate the input and all the good ideas.

I admit to liking the 82/83 Honda CR option and might consider that on one of the other bikes where I am not concerned about originality.

Since my last post, I did come up with a fairly nice 17in replacement wheel like the original one but with stainless spokes. So this has gotton me out of the most immediate fix.

The gold on the rim is a bit faded but pretty nice otherwise. Here are some snaps,




The hub is pretty good but could use a dab of black paint on the left side spoke flange.



Here is the other side. The sprocket is a new 52 tooth but I find the bike is geared too tall with this. The front is a 14 and I think a 56 is more typical with a 14.

I suppose I could drop to a 13 up front but I favor the bigger sprockets as it will help keep the chain off the front of the swing arm (which reminds me that I am still missing the chain rubbing block!).




So I am only missing a couple of odds and ends now. The front brake and clutch cables still need to be replaced and I haven't yet had time to fiddle with the jetting.

It starts easy and runs well enough but seems a bit rich still.

Next are a few detail photos of the controls. You really cant beat the stock Husky items. The brake and clutch levers are Magura as is the kill switch.

The German Magura perches have much less flex than you typically see in other OEM and aftermarket perches. I run them on my Yamaha's too. The lack of flex makes a real difference when using a drum brake up front.



The throttle is an original Gunnar Gasser and still works great. I remember when these first came out and how well received they were. I believe these were the 1st throttles with the built in 90 degree bend that kept the cable close and parallel to the bar where it was less likely to get snagged by a tree branch or damaged in a crash.



I've also collected a few period decals here and there and this seemed to be a good project to use them on.



And that front fender I like so much gets a Champion decal like all old Huskys seem to have.



The tank is straight but still had some scratches and scars. Rather than paint it I stickered it up!





And now for the grand walk around ...

















So there you have it. Still some fine tuning to do and then I have to ride it around a bit.

With the exception of the tank & number plates colors (they should be black with yellow), the front fender and the aluminum (vs black plastic) air cleaner cover the bike is pretty much stock.

That won't be the case with the next 390!

Kevin

More to come...
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My '81 YZ465 Factory Race Replica
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=772033

My Vintage Husqvarna/Motocross Restoration Extravaganza Thread
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=964670
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Old 07-27-2014, 08:38 AM   #74
mikey413
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looks great Kevin, you might want to get a shorter front brake cable or at least a guide for it.
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Old 07-27-2014, 11:15 AM   #75
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badazzed!....
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