|03-21-2006, 10:20 PM||#1|
not too gnarly adventurer
Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Los Angeles
Beyond blanking plates: canisterectomy, questions & pics
I started a thread the other day to ask a few questions about blanking plates and such. The responses were very helpful and got me started on the sas/canister removal procedure on my bike, an '05.5. It was suggested on that other thread that it'd be helpful to have a step-by-step explanation of the deed. Well, please don't consider what follows to be anything close to a manual for taking off the SAS & Canister systems. It's only a sort of illustrated list of questions I have about what I'm doing to complete this project. I'm lookin' for answers about, and checks of, what I'm doing. Also, I didn't start shooting pictures until I had already gotten the big bits off the bike. I'm recalling most of this from a shop tools and motorcycle parts-enhanced euphoric fog.
For the real deal search "canisterectomy" and check out the thread started by Flanny. There is another one titled "Join me on a painful SAS journey", I believe, which was quite helpful and had great photos.
Hopefully these pics will help others with their 'ectomies, painful or not.
Not to give away the ending, but... this is the stuff what fell off my bike the other day.
It all started when I removed the glove box and its associated panels. The turbulance enhancer (some will call it a windscreen) is off to aid a GPS bracket installation.
I think the skid plate and lower fuel tank cross-brace-thing went next.
The side panels might have come off next. This picture was shot out of sequence and is post-canister removal, however it more or less shows where to head in the search for a canister-less world - the inside surface of the inside panel of the left-hand side fairing panel...sub-assembly...deal. Anyway, it's where the canister used to be and probably, like somebody else suggested, will be where a spare tube will go.
Does this mean I have inside-side panels which are old, and aftermarket?
This is the left tank. Off it went.
I had to unplug this white fuel-sensor connector. The over-flow hose was just hangin', no big deal.
Close the petcocks, pull the hoses.
These are them hoses. Tank crossover on the left and fuel pump in on the lower right.
Right tank. Not much drama. Just disconnect crossover hose and pull the mounting bolts.
These hoses led from the canister down the frame to underneath the airbox to another valve and, as I remember (I was yankin' and pullin' like crazy at this point, it got a bit confusing), the front cylinder-left side vacuum connection.
Out of sequence again. This is the valve which is attached to the underside of the airbox. The hose going up to the right was attached to the canister in the left side fairing. The left portion went down the frame and was capped at it's end. I'll mention here that my bike was a demo. I hadn't thought to ask him but I can now believe that the dealer (or somebody else) disconnected key hoses to dissable the canister system...
The parts diagram dosen't show anything attaching to this brass fitting. Did a hose go here at one time?
Opening up the airbox, I found the hose to this plastic fitting was diconnected (the left side of the front carb),...
...as well as here, another black plastic elbow fitting (the brass one is the fuel line in), on the right side of the rear carb.
This is the "y" fitting which collects the two hoses which were disconnected in the above two photos. I believe this is the hose which some people cut to just below the airbox and leave hanging. I seem to remember a mention of alternately routing these hoses to the back of the airbox to the former SAS connection and fitting some sort of Adv 640 filter to it. Any opinions?
Looking straight down into the carb-free airbox, we see the aformentioned "y" fitting and the hoses which were disconnected from my carbs (the card vents?), along with the fuel lines (wraped in springs) to the carbs.
The other thing in there is the idle adjust cable (I believe. Called "stop screw cpl., in the engine parts manual, pg.18, #41 ). I just unscrewed it from the left side of the carb then pulled it out the bottom of the airbox, then promptly lost the nice little washer which goes on the end.
Before I get to far ahead of myself, a dissasembly flash-back for those of you wondering: In order to see the above airbox interior I had to first remove the hose at the top front of the airbox -pop- then I remember pulling the SAS hose off at the back -pop- followed by removing all the perimeter screws around the box. After lifting off the top and pulling out the airfilter (jeebus, it huge. Whats that puppy gonna cost to replace?!) I removed the screws in the side panels of the box itself, pop, pop. This last bit affords access to the four hose clamps holding the carbs to the intake boots, and the boots to the intakes. I used a long extension on a t-handle to fit a socket in the right side airbox opening and loosened all four hose clamps. Now you (I) could remove the intake snorkle in front of the airbox. I (you) can now grab the carbs and carefully pull up the whole carb assembly. Hopefully the rubber boots with the hose clamps stay put. I then wrapped a velcro strap around the carbs and ended up doing this:
Here's my question: have I inadvertantly screwed up the carbs, their balance, or anything fuel/air intake-wise by handling them like this?
I hope not.
Movin' on. This is what I saw after unbolting the SAS flange on the left side of the rear cylinder. This is where I'll bolt on a blanking plate, leaving in the SLS valve (reed valve).
After pulling the hose off the SAS flange (that's what it's called in the spare parts manual, pg. 12, #11) I yanked it out from under the airbox like this:
Then, to get to the front cylinder, right side SAS flange I needed a way around the roadblock which is the combined oil tank/radiator hose mess. You can barely see the flange in the background. Defeated, I gave in to it and just did this.
I can't seem to get any tool I own or can think of into the space around the front SAS flange bolts. So, using advice given to me in my other thread about blanking plates I plan to leave the damn flange on and just plug it up. More on that a little later. First, how I got the damn hose off! Take a flat-head screw driver and hammer to the freaking evil hose clamp (it'll eventually pop given the right combination of angle of attack and directed force on it's little locking tab.) Then I reached in there with my overpriced, yet packably small KTM branded spring hook and worked that hose off that flange.
Rear cylinder, right side vacuum hose. Left it on.
What it connected to: a little plastic stick on the rear underside lip of the airbox. Pulled the hose off this and I'll vaccum cap it and leave it.
A clearer shot of the thing at the rear of the airbox which the rear cylinder vacuum hose attached to.
Here's all the airbox stuff I pulled off the bike...
...which gets me (you) this view.
However, this intake boot, and it's twin, needs to be removed from the airbox before the airbox goes anywhere. I pulled off the hose clamps which held the carbs on. Then I figured out I had to sort of push out on one small bit of the top rim of the boot while simultaneously pulling up, and pop, off it came. With these out of the way the airbox lifts off.
Oh yeah, I had to unbolt this sucker from the airbox floor. Yanked it.
Now I could get to the vacuum connections with ease. I'll vaccum cap these guys, leaving a convienent way to connect a carb balancer, correct? Hello? HELLO? Anybody still with me?
Here's my view of the left side vacuum connections, front of the bike is the right side of the picture. These hoses are now gone...
...and replaced with these babies. Do I have this right?
So now all of the smog crap is gone. Lets review:
I'm left with the front cylinder SAS flange. This thing here, which I can't get to to unbolt
Back to the suggestion that I just plug up the little bastrd. I gather that one may do this any which way. I worry that certain ways may allow stuff to get sucked into the engine, YIKES! The best suggestion is to jam that sucker full of high-temp RTV. I don't find that but I do land on the idea of using this stuff.
It's epoxy for metal repairs. Unlike a liquid mix, which I feared would just run right past the valve and into the cylinder, then cure, this stuff is like putty.
After the requisite kneeding into a uniform color I formed a little play-dough roll and test-jammed that sucker into the flange I took off the rear cylinder.
I tamped it down with the end of a big fat punch so as to make a seal. Well, damned if it didn't set up steel-hard and never made the slightest move toward what would be the valve inlet. I clamped it in the vise to do this procedure, and cure overnight, in the orientation it would have on the bike. If I cover this with a vacuum cap, do you think I'd be good to go?
Bonus question: what's yer shit weigh?
If the smog cops get me tell 'em the dog made me do it.
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