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Old 04-29-2006, 09:44 AM   #16
metaljockey OP
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Joined: Jun 2005
Location: Eastern Cape, South Africa
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We travel through some more impressive scenery.

And we get to Twyfelfontein lodge

After two dusty days of hard riding, cold beer have been known to cause spontanious bouts of laughter

The view from the bar.

After being suitably invigorated by two or three beers and filling with fuel we hit the road again. Vigorously.

It's past 18:00 already and we have still to cover 150km to our overnight stop at Palmwag. Lucky for us it is good graded gravel like you only find in Namibia. Time for some high speed shenanigans.

I learn something interesting. I try four times to get the 1200 to an indicated 200km/h. Every time at 190km/h the back wheel starts to spin. Very controllable, no sideways movement but it plain refuses to go faster than 190km/h. On the last attempt I keep it spinning for probably 400m. I think there must be some equilibrium between drag from wind resistance and gravity keeping the tyre down.

I stop in front of this formation to wait for the Dakars to catch up. "VREDE" means 'peace'.

As we pull into camp the sun sets.

End of day two and it was a good one.
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Old 04-29-2006, 10:12 AM   #17
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Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Auburn, Washington
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African adventure

Beautiful scenes & surmounted challenges! Awesome report! All new to my eyes, ancient Welwitschia mirabilis,(too cool) desert flora, elephant spoor, rock salt and African sunsets. Thanks for the education!
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Old 04-29-2006, 11:42 AM   #18
Good Times
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Location: Elizabethtown, KY
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I wish my back yard looked like that

Wish You Were Here...
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Old 04-29-2006, 12:12 PM   #19
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: N. Louisiana
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Cool pics and ride report.
Keep them comming.
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Old 04-29-2006, 12:29 PM   #20
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Your method of carrying the extra fuel is brilliant.
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Old 04-29-2006, 02:44 PM   #21
metaljockey OP
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Location: Eastern Cape, South Africa
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We stayed at the community camp site at the entrance to Palmwag. This is what the accomodation looks like. Thinnish matrass.

High speed dust pattern.

The next morning we leave and stop off at Ongongo spring. I wish we could have stayed over, but the other two want to cover some distance.

We fill up again at Sesfontein and then hit the road north to Opuwo. We are at last entering Kaokoland. Some dust devils at a rest stop.

We come to a dust-billowing stop at the first cuca shop for a cold one.

This lovely lady is the proprietor.

She belongs to the Himba tribe. They are a proud lot that don't really mix with any other tribes in Namibia. The headdress shows that she is married.

We fill up with fuel again at Opuwo and then we enter Kaokoland proper. From hereon it should be twin track into wilderness area. To my dismay the track is being turned into a gravel road. What took two days to drive in 1995 now takes only two hours. The powder holes keeps things interesting though.

Eventually the road reverts to twin track though and we go in search of a good spot to sleep. And for only the second time in my LIFE I get off the bike without putting the sidestand out. Makes you feel like a right arse.

We bought some boerewors to braai (sausage to grill) in Opuwo and the 1200's bash plate comes in handy.

I had this heavy duty bashplate made up for this trip because I knew that it won't be a walk in the park. It is soon to become a major role player, but not in the way I expected.

Day three ends with blisfull sleep in a riverbed bathed in moonlight.

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Old 04-29-2006, 03:05 PM   #22
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WOW Absolutely beautiful! Great photos of an amazing country. I sure wish I could see it up close.

Thanks for sharing.

Good judgment comes from bad experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.

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Old 04-29-2006, 06:55 PM   #23
I just tweeted it
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wow, that's some incredible scenery! simply breathtaking. I can imagine why you'd want to go back.

Looking forward to the rest, thanks for taking us along for the ride.
'14 KTM 350 EXC-F, '04 GS Adv, '02 DR-Z 400S
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Old 04-30-2006, 01:45 AM   #24
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Location: Eastern Cape, South Africa
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The next morning we break camp. As you can see it is the dry season. The plan was to knock off daily around 14h00. It turned out however that we generally took of by 07h00 and rode till 18h00.

In the early morning there was just still air. The trailing rider had to keep at least a 5km following distance.

The Himba are nomads who moves after grazing for their cattle. They have shelters like these that they use intermittantly when in the area.

We reach Etanga, a collection of huts, and find that it has a cuca shop. It's still morning, but you never pass up on a cold beer when it's available. Myself and Hennie soaking up some sunshine.

The sun & beer combination makes me feel all affectionate towards my Savannas who have served me so well over several years.

This is the wall on the inside of the cuca shop. The red is the residue of Himba leaning aginst the wall. They rub their bodies with a mixture of Vaseline and red ochre. Not much opportunity for bathing in this area.

We meet this character.

Living as a nomad in a wilderness area takes it's toll. Still, there are no hospitals, running water, motorised transport or even shelter from nature here. Yet people grow to a ripe old age. Makes you wonder about exactly how healthy our western lifestyle is.

We bought him a beer. Figured no harm can be done and looks like his day could do with some brightening up.

Grave sites are scaterred here and there.

The horns are from cattle slaughtered in the deceased's honour at the funeral. Once again, check out the date of birth. No spring chicken.

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Old 04-30-2006, 06:24 AM   #25
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Old 04-30-2006, 07:54 AM   #26
Joined: Sep 2005
Location: Matosinhos - Portugal N 4110.830' W00840.929'
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No doubt... Great report!!!
Thanks for sharing!!!

Manuel Guedes
Lc8 990 Adventure S
"A big toy for a big boy"
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Old 04-30-2006, 08:45 AM   #27
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Brilliant. Just as dry as deserts in West Aus, but just soooo different in so many ways - flora, fauna, people.
More, more, more, what an education.
What's that you have in your eye?
Oohh! it's nothing but a sparkle

"All the freaky people make the beauty in the world" - Michael Franty. Weird, odd and proud of it
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Old 04-30-2006, 09:54 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by metaljockey
Then we came across this:
Welwitschia Mirabilis - a desert plant that can live to a thousand years. This one was huge, it must have been several hundred years old. It actually only has two leaves, but the wind over the years tears it apart. Brandberg in the background.
freaking awesome shot and awesome ride report. I don't vote on many threads. this one is 5 stars. awesome shots.
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Old 04-30-2006, 10:14 AM   #29
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Excellent This place looks awesome.

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Old 04-30-2006, 12:41 PM   #30
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That place looks absolutely superb!
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