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Old 05-26-2006, 06:27 AM   #16
xover
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Thumbs down

Just FYI
the part on the photo that is broken is the NEW one with the BLUE sealing.

So it is not that good

And I did not found water at no place
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Old 05-26-2006, 07:46 AM   #17
R-Monster
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This is seems like an obvious question--Why the hell does the cover need to have any venting? Does the 'controller' generate that much heat that it would not work if the cover were properly sealed from water ingress?

R
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Old 05-26-2006, 08:21 AM   #18
Bonebag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R-Monster
This is seems like an obvious question--Why the hell does the cover need to have any venting? Does the 'controller' generate that much heat that it would not work if the cover were properly sealed from water ingress?

R
I would imagine that unless it was completely sealed..this location would attract water at some point and without the venting would cause significant condensation which would cause problems....I hope this works out to be early release issue orientated. I just returned from a 10 day/3000 mile trip with rain..sometimes very very hard every day and no issues. I'll be watching to see where this goes.

Bonebag screwed with this post 05-26-2006 at 08:55 AM
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Old 05-28-2006, 03:52 AM   #19
xover
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Thumbs down

I have to be honest,
Had one trip also with a lot of rain and after 3 days it happened , BUT I did not found water neither humidity. Do not belive it is the reason.

What is damagged on the unit is a component that handle all the current and that's why the heat sink... Probably it really needs cooling and can not be sealed.

I am just affraid what to do to avoid that situation next time. I am going to replace the module with the SAME revision, so what changes and why it should not happen again....
A spare could be good solution but really silly and wrong way..
cheers
Martin
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Old 05-28-2006, 06:01 PM   #20
xlcr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonebag
I would imagine that unless it was completely sealed..this location would attract water at some point and without the venting would cause significant condensation which would cause problems....I hope this works out to be early release issue orientated. I just returned from a 10 day/3000 mile trip with rain..sometimes very very hard every day and no issues. I'll be watching to see where this goes.
Here's an idea:

Splice in some extra wire so you can zip-tie the controller someplace other than a sinkhole.
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Old 05-29-2006, 01:58 AM   #21
Poolside
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Bypassing a faulty Fuel Pump Controller


If you are in a fix, the controller can be bypassed. The fuel pump can be powered directly from the 3-pin connector that plugs into the fuel pump controller.

The fuel pump controller isn't part of the CANbus.

Jumper from Pin 1 and Pin 2 on this connector shown below . . .







. . . to Pin 1 and Pin 2 on this connector shown below. The numbers 1 and 2 are molded into the connector housing.





The 2 pins of this receptacle below are connected directly to the fuel pump.





The two pins are +12V and Ground, just like other fuel pumps.




Got it? Connect two jumpers, Pin 1 to Pin 1, and Pin 2 to Pin 2, to bypass the faulty electronic controller. This connects power and ground to the fuel pump directly. Just like other fuel pumps that don't have a controller.

The wire colors in these pictures are different from some versions of the factory wiring diagram. But the pin numbers are correct. The numbers 1 and 2 are molded into the connector housing.



- - - What does the controller do?

The controller operates the fuel pump at 80% to extend the life of the fuel filter. The motor ECU switches the fuel pump controller between 100% and 80%.

The pump can operate at 100% all the time, just like it would without a controller, so a jumper will not be an issue.

The fuel pump on the 1200 is the same as on the 1100/1150. The only thing new on the 1200 is the 80% controller.

The fuel pump controller isn't part of the CANbus.



Another way to bypass the controller is to cut the 2-pin connector from the controller. Use the connector leads to connect Pin 1 to a fuse and the battery positive. And Pin 2 to the battery negative post or chassis ground.

The pump will be running all the time when the engine is running. But it already is running all the time, just like every other fuel pump.

If you chose this method, a switch of some kind will be needed to turn the fuel pump on before starting the motor, and off after stopping the motor. The fuse may be plugged/unplugged to serve as a switch.

Either solution can get you home if you are stuck out on the road or trail, or at a dealer if the controller isn't in stock.

- Jim

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Old 05-30-2006, 08:04 AM   #22
xover
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Pissed

Hello folks, just received new module (Right one on the pic) 16147694378.

As you can see the New part has improoved HEAT SINK SURFACE.

I think it clearly shows that the fault on the previous versions is related NOT to WATER, but to BIG HEAT. SO
the solution to SEAL the cover will be quite dangerous...

My question is WHY BMW DID NOT OPENED UFFICIAL RECALL FOR THAT ???



It happened already, I changed 4 times all fuel pump KIT, 2 times due to a recall. WHY NOT NOW if it is CLEAR the previous version also gives problems as the oldest one..

Solution ?!?

Go to claim on your dealers to replace that part
it is just 62 EURO and it STOPS the bike.
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Old 03-03-2008, 08:55 AM   #23
Paul-K
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside
If you are in a fix, the controller can be bypassed. The fuel pump can be powered directly from the 3-pin connector that plugs into the fuel pump controller.

The fuel pump controller isn't part of the CANbus.

Jumper from Pin 1 and Pin 2 on this connector shown here . . .







. . . to Pin 1 and Pin 2 respectively, where this 2-pin connector . . .





. . . is plugged in. The 2 pins at the bottom of this hole are connected directly to the fuel pump. +12V and Ground just like other fuel pumps.






Got it? Connecting the two jumpers bypasses the controller, and connects power and ground to the pump directly. Just like other fuel pumps that don't have a controller.

The wire colors in these pictures are different from some versions of the factory wiring diagram. But the pin numbers are correct.



- - - What does the controller do?

The controller operates the fuel pump at 80% to extend the life of the fuel filter. The motor ECU switches the fuel pump controller between 100% and 80%.

The pump can operate at 100% all the time, just like it would without a controller, so a jumper will not be an issue.

The fuel pump on the 1200 is the same as on the 1100/1150. The only thing new on the 1200 is the 80% controller.

The fuel pump controller isn't part of the CANbus.



Another way to bypass the controller is to cut the 2-pin connector from the controller. Use the connector leads to connect Pin 1 to a fuse and the battery positive. And Pin 2 to the battery negative post or chassis ground.

The pump will be running all the time when the engine is running. But it already is running all the time, just like every other fuel pump.

If you chose this method, a switch of some kind will be needed to turn the fuel pump on before starting the motor, and off after stopping the motor. The fuse may be plugged/unplugged to serve as a switch.

Either solution can get you home if you are stuck at a dealer (or worse) and they do not have the controller in stock.

- Jim
Hi Jim
Where can both plugs be obtained from, if one was to make a small harness or adapter cable it would fit easily into a 'on the road' toolkit as a quick and easy get me home fix.

Well done for the info.

Rgds

Paul K (1200GSA)
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Old 05-03-2008, 11:02 AM   #24
Tim Cullis
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Bypass wiring

I'm in Morocco for the next few weeks and my bike isn't going to be near a dealer for some time, so I've done a controller bypass to the existing wiring loom. OK, it's not neat but this is something the dealer is going to have to sort out under warranty when I'm back in the UK.

The connector running into the TOP of controller has three wires. Bare the right-hand and middle ones (and try not to slash the other in half as I did). Make an 'eye' in each of the cables to accept the splice.



Cut the two cables with terminator block off the BOTTOM of the duff controller and splice
- the BLUE bottom cable into the BROWN top one
- the YELLOW bottom cable into the BLUE/GREEN top one.



Cover liberally with insulating tape, plug the terminator block into its position and start engine!

Tim
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Tim Cullis screwed with this post 07-25-2008 at 01:58 AM
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Old 05-03-2008, 12:51 PM   #25
Poolside
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Cullis
OK, it's not neat but this is something the dealer is going to have to sort out under warranty when I'm back in the UK.
Well done, Tim.


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Old 05-21-2008, 08:48 AM   #26
Racegun
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Bluhduh always something......

Great Ideas Guys and thank you! I am going to wire in a switch and small relay. The sw will pull in the relay supplying the NEW BY-Pass voltage to the pump. If it acts like it is running out of gas, a simple throw of the sw should keep me going.

.............OR........ has this problem been addressed and solved by BMW Motorrad?
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Old 05-21-2008, 12:04 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xover
this the same broken part from the bottom side, without the protection gum.


It has been replaced 4 (FOUR) times to my R1200GS , 2 times because of the wrong fuel level and 2 times because of BMW recall without explanation.
Now I have the explanation..

It is some 60 euro part that stops the bike.
And to think, this little meltdown is taking place on the top of your fuel tank.
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Old 07-16-2008, 02:45 PM   #28
AntonLargiader
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Thanks for the write-up; saved me some time making this:



This reaches to the accessory plug on the RT I'm repairing. Bike runs like a champ.

I'll look at some scrap harnesses and see if I can make one with the right connector on it so it will just replace the module.
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Old 07-16-2008, 03:00 PM   #29
YetiGS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntonLargiader
Thanks for the write-up; saved me some time making this:



This reaches to the accessory plug on the RT I'm repairing. Bike runs like a champ.

I'll look at some scrap harnesses and see if I can make one with the right connector on it so it will just replace the module.
If you make them, they will buy them.

At least I will.
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Old 07-23-2008, 08:10 PM   #30
Racegun
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i would pay you for one...heck. i could just buy the connectors.
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