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Old 04-16-2007, 09:25 AM   #16
Garry
Old and In The Way
 
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Joined: May 2005
Location: Murrysville, PA
Oddometer: 1,171
Quote:
Originally Posted by DragonRider1
What are the 1x3 and 3x3 airbox mods? Three 1" and 3" holes drilled with the little air-filter bits in the airbox?? Pics???
Go to the DRZ400 forum at www.ThumperTalk.com . More info than you can imagine on the bike.

The "3x3" mod is cutting a 3" by 3" square hole in the top of the airbox (after removing the snorkel). This lets the bike breath well enough to require richer jetting. Buy the DynoJet Stage 2 kit and follow the jetting instructions from "Burned" (aka Eddie S) on ThumperTalk. Makes a nice difference, even with the stock pipe. The next step is to install a full Yosh RS-3 exhaust and then richen the main jet.
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Old 04-16-2007, 09:47 AM   #17
DragonRider1
East TN Adventurer!
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Knoxville,TN next to Deal's Gap & Cherohala Skyway
Oddometer: 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garry
Go to the DRZ400 forum at www.ThumperTalk.com . More info than you can imagine on the bike.

The "3x3" mod is cutting a 3" by 3" square hole in the top of the airbox (after removing the snorkel). This lets the bike breath well enough to require richer jetting. Buy the DynoJet Stage 2 kit and follow the jetting instructions from "Burned" (aka Eddie S) on ThumperTalk. Makes a nice difference, even with the stock pipe. The next step is to install a full Yosh RS-3 exhaust and then richen the main jet.
Thanks! heading over to join ThumperTalk now. :) I don't think I'm going to be swapping out the stock exhaust anytime soon. I rather like it nice and quiet for the types of places I ride. I do, however, want to dump that 90lb steel tank for an IMS that trades the weight of the metal for extra go-go juice! ;)
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Old 04-16-2007, 09:52 AM   #18
markjenn
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Swellvue, WA
Oddometer: 10,288
Here's my 3x3 mod'ed airbox (you're looking at the top of the airbox):



I wanted to finish up the installation with some screening, but most just use a heated up putty knife to melt a 3-inch x 3-inch hole in the box in-situ and leave the hole open.

Overall, the complete mod is to:

+ open up en the airbox
+ take the carb off and replace the needle and CV carb diaphragm spring with the ones from the Dynojet Stage 1 kit (you end up spending a lot of money for a jet kit just to get the needle and spring, but I don't think there is any way to get them otherwise)
+ replace the main jet and pilot get with different ones that the ones in the Dynojet kit (value depends on your riding altitude)
+ drill out the idle mixture screw cover and set the screw to about 2.5 turns

Where in there, I also

+ replaced the idle screw with a hand-adjustable thumbscrew
+ replaced the soft float bowl screws with allen head ones

Lots of folks either mod the stock exhaust at the same time or put on an aftermarket pipe. Personally, I love the quiet stock exhaust and you have to go considerably louder to get any performance improvement.

Look for the thread "Master 3x3 post" in TT. Things are covered in some detail with lots of variations. Other than getting the carb off, it's a simple mod and wakes up the bike nicely.

Next step is an FCR carb, but that's a much bigger deal.

- Mark
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Old 04-16-2007, 05:24 PM   #19
Killer_B
SUZUKI DR-Z400
 
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Western, NC USA
Oddometer: 15
1x3 Airbox Mod.

For those interested in more power w/o having to re-jet:

I simply elongated the snorkle slot to twice it's original size.
The snorkle is removed & the slot is now 1"x about 5" long,
hence the 1x3 mod. It was originally about 1"x2" long.

I live/ride @ 2500'-6000' elevation, and some posters on TT
seemed to think that's what saved me from having to do the
re-jet also. I disagree, but what do I know... One thing I "do"
know is that my bike runs 100% better now. It can actually breathe...

I don't have a photo, but all it does is lengthen the snorkle slot
to twice its size, and simply run w/o the snorkle.

If you're interested, try it & if you don't like the way your bike runs,
simply patch the slot back to the OE size. Even duct tape would work.
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