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Old 08-20-2007, 11:45 AM   #16
rufus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridewestKTM
The 990 isn't imnune either but some of the 950 don't show problems for a while. Usually you get lots of warning. It sounds like it's grinding rocks when it "functions". Also starting it in gear tends to aggravate. The problem is the device self-distructs everytime it functions -if it doesn't function it doesn't self-destruct. Only one bike I have heard of didn't give warning. When it does go the enging will not turn over.
I will give you a washer that can be used to get you home that can be installed trail-side. Just let me know.


I think that a lot of us would like to know about the "washer".
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Old 08-20-2007, 12:02 PM   #17
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Including moi.

I'll have pix of it all.
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Old 08-20-2007, 05:43 PM   #18
ridewestKTM
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Torque limiter fix

So you don't have to go back thru the thead and all of my lousy pictures, here is a summary: The limiter works and fails like this; one gear (driven) drives another on the same shaft thru a ramped and pocket "clutch". When the torque being transmitted exceeds a predetermined value the ramps ride out of pockets and compress a beleville spring (looks like a conical washer). When the ramps clear the tops of the opposing ramps they slip by making the awfull racket. Problem is the beleville must slip on the inside (little diameter) the outside (big diameter) and because of classical friction it slips on the little diameter and this is where its retaining ring is. The retaining ring bites the belville and cuts into it. This changes the compression and reduces the torque that it slips at. So it gets worse fast. And eventually cuts thru the belville and pops against the cover making a big bang (noted in the TSB) and works no further. I put together a washer that replaces the belville and does not let the the ramps ride up.
back in a few
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Old 08-20-2007, 05:57 PM   #19
ridewestKTM
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Torque Limiter

I worked with two washer configurations and eventually configured one washer to work either of two ways. Washer needs a 16mm bore 5/8" will work but is really snug. Outside isn't important but I was using 7/8". Important though is the thickness .090 +/- .005 inches. This with a standarg 5/8" snap ring works (most of the time). If one takes a jewlers file and squares the bottom of the snap-ring groove (its a round wire ring and has a round bottom) so the new rectangular snap-ring will not ride up the rounded bottom it works 100%. The other way is use the same washer but with a chamfer on the inside diameter of one side. This way use the origional round wire snap-ring and it's forced into the groove (estimated 800lbs) and works 100%, but the clearances dimensions is really touchy too much metal cant get the ring in to little and the ramps clear. Picture is the first way.
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Old 08-21-2007, 12:14 PM   #20
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Thumb It's a NEW Bike!!

Hoooo-eey!
Man what a difference!! I'll post the pictures in a while - right now I gotta go RIDE!
It sounds Sooo-o-o-oo Sweet now. Unbelievable!
(As I write this I recognize I'm excited ...because my ride acts like it's supposed to. Hmmmm....)
Thanks for all the help, y'all!
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Old 08-21-2007, 01:36 PM   #21
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Sadlsor or roughidle - can you verify the correct part number for the replacement generator cover gasket?
I think it is 60030040100 but want to make sure the replacement one is not different than the original. My dealer must have messed up with this gasket because mine is leaking at the bottom too.
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Old 08-21-2007, 06:30 PM   #22
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SpeedsStar - I don't have the part in front of me now; I'm at work. But the gasket was no different from the original, and in fact, the replacement generator case / cover had the same part number as the original. Hmmm...

I compared part numbers from the pieces in my replacement kit with those in the Spare Parts Manual for my 2005 -S, and going from memory, they are the same.

That said, this is my 2nd gasket re-install (first replaced the stator, re-used original gasket), and this time I did replace the gasket with the new one that came in the box when I replaced my torque limiter.

I didn't experience any leaks after the first time, but it was tricky getting the gasket to stay in place. I mangled it a little bit, but apparently not enough to count.

This time I used a hillbilly trick that helped with the gasket. Pics shortly...
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Old 08-21-2007, 07:11 PM   #23
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Thanks for the info Sadlsor. I will get my local dealer to order a new gasket. Hopefully it will go on the right way this time.
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Old 08-21-2007, 07:23 PM   #24
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Replacement of torque limiter

You already saw the contents of the package a couple of posts back. So let's dive in:

You're going to lose some oil when you loosen the generator case for removal. Be ready.


The good news is, you can leave all this alone.


This is what you have to deal with.


These are the original parts. There is not much wear to be seen, but we'll show the differences in a moment. The large flat washer on top and the smaller freewheel cog below are the culprits in this horrendous noise at startup.


Here is the new torque limiter, lying on top of the original for comparison. Note the different washer and capture nut on the shaft.


I tried unsuccessfully to show that there is a distinct curvature to the washer on the new torque limiter, as it is raised in the middle. Is this the bevel washer ridewestKTM refers to? The orgiginal washer is flat, but this one is "domed".


Here you see the back sides of the new torque limiter (left) and the old (right.) While the "spur" gears have 10 teeth each, there is a distinct profile difference, seen here.



Here are the new (left) and old (right) idler gears. This is the small cog with the snap-ring that lies beneath the actual torque limiter in the opening pictures. (If I had my Spare Parts Manual at work I'd give you the REAL names of the pieces... sorry!)


Note the difference in profiles here. New idler gear has a taller shank or collar, but narrower teeth or cogs as compared to the older gear.


New torque limiter and idler gear installed.



Last time I buttoned up the generator cover, I struggled a bit getting it lined up with the gasket while fighting that rotor magnet. This time I employed some cheaters. These are just the cutoffs from cable ties used elsewhere. I use them for smearing grease and other mundane chores. Now they have a new use.


And they actually worked! At least for me... it was much smoother, and the gasket wasn't falling out the entire time.
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Sadlsor screwed with this post 08-21-2007 at 07:33 PM
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Old 08-21-2007, 09:02 PM   #25
ridewestKTM
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Limiter Replacement

Sadlsor:
Great pic's!! Damn I got to learn how to do that. Ya know your stock limiter looks like it had 50% of it's life left - another 4 starts .

easier to change out than get
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Old 08-21-2007, 09:35 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridewestKTM
I worked with two washer configurations and eventually configured one washer to work either of two ways. Washer needs a 16mm bore 5/8" will work but is really snug. Outside isn't important but I was using 7/8". Important though is the thickness .090 +/- .005 inches.
You're right on. I measured the new washer with a dial caliper, and averaged .085 at the outside edge over 4 or 5 readings, using the depth gauge part of the tool.

Incidentally, some here have expressed that their local dealer tells 'em the parts are back-ordered at KTM. Local Birmingham dealer told me they could get it in 2 weeks. Donnie Graham (Graham KTM, Senatobia MS) was placing an unrelated order with KTM, and added this kit to his order and it came overnight.

Donnie is a good one. But he's ruining my unflattering opinion of motorcycle dealerships...
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Old 08-22-2007, 06:40 AM   #27
SpeedStar
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Great pics Sadlsor! Also, good tip for replacing the cover and holding the gasket in place. I hope my dealer can get the gasket quick. He thought it would be different than original as part of the kit.
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=356383
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Old 08-22-2007, 07:03 AM   #28
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Excellent write-up ... love the tie wrap alignment pins
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Old 08-22-2007, 10:45 AM   #29
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torque-limiter replacement out of warranty?

I've got a 2005 950 that's now out of warranty by a year, and of course my starter is finally eating shit. It's always had the nasty CLACK!, but apparently not bad enough to warrant a replacement while the warranty was still valid. Now it's stranded my twice (makes a noise like an impact wrench), but still starts the bike most of the time.

Has anyone gotten KTM to replace the torque limiter out of warranty? My local dealer is less than helpful, and I'm concerned they still won't approve a replacement since it doesn't clack every single time. All I want are the parts, I'll gladly replace it myself. Should I contact KTM directly? Any advice?

Thanks.
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Old 08-22-2007, 12:26 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rumpus
Has anyone gotten KTM to replace the torque limiter out of warranty? My local dealer is less than helpful,
Yep, Mine is two years old, has 42K miles and my local dealer performed the TSB last week. No questions asked. I had tried with another dealer who refused me several times.

You may need to call around and find a dealer who will work with you. This is a factory repair and should be at no cost to the owner, regardless of warranty.
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