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Old 10-26-2007, 02:46 AM   #16
dalv
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Great post. Just got an old '90 650 and in the process of stripping to the frame to build back. Bike runs great but I thought a complete once over would pay off in the long run.

I planned on adjusting the valves - a little noisy - and this post is just the ticket. My only problem is what is the clearance for a '90? I have not been able to come up with a manual anyplace - if anyone know of a source paper or electronic that would really be appreciated.

Thanks for any help.
Dal
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Old 10-26-2007, 10:31 AM   #17
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptTurbo
Thanks for making the effort to take us through this Dave. I noticed that you cautioned to not over torque the oil plug but I think you should also caution to not over torque the oil filter cover bolts. Those little buggers have very tender theads. Great thread and again thanks!
I use a small t-handle on the small 8 mm bolts and easy still does it even with that, Thanks for the informative service lesson. 300.00 dollars! they must be a wannabee BMW dealer as thats what they charged me on my first service on a beemer I had.
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Old 10-26-2007, 03:03 PM   #18
Grider Pirate
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$300.00 service

....So after leaving the dealertip with a price quote of 300.00 dollars for the first service I made my way to the parts counter for a filter and some oil. I put this together so everyone who does not know how to do this gets a clear picture of how easy it really is......
ALSO..... You will know it was ACTUALLY DONE if you do it yourself. That's not necessarily the case when you pay a dealership to do it.
Just my experience and generally cynical attitude. (learned behavior)
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Old 10-26-2007, 05:29 PM   #19
40cu.in.of.furey
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Hey guys I'm a noob to this form and looks great so far I got the Black 07 DR and just did a valve adjustment on mine. I got the neat little tools from Kientech Engineering and made adjusting the valves a snap! The tools were only $15 dollars I thought it was worth it anyways. I'm not affiliated with Kientech by the way just a suggestion.
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Old 10-26-2007, 06:12 PM   #20
Dirty Harry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay
If you do remove the inspection plug to get at the end of the crank, great care must be taken to only very lightly tighten it back up when you close it back up. Or it'll be stuck.
I always use some aiti-sieze compound on the threads when tightening it down, but even then you can over tighten or strip the threads...

dh
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Old 10-27-2007, 04:35 AM   #21
randomlogic
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Should have used this thread instead of starting my own.

A few questions in regards to the adjusting the valves:

1. Is the intake valve the one nearest to the carbs and exhaust nearest to exhaust pipe or vice versa?

2. When doing the adjustment is it better to be in the lower range 0.08mm or higher ranger range of 0.13 for intake valve.Or should it just be in the middle around 0.10mm?

3. I am slightly confused when in my search when the piston is in compression stroke? (searching for some other guides sort of confused me) Should I just assume when I see the "T" on the magneto rotor as described in the service guide it is ok then?

Any help would be greatly appreciated for this newby.
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Old 10-27-2007, 06:13 AM   #22
dieseldave24v OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randomlogic
Should have used this thread instead of starting my own.

A few questions in regards to the adjusting the valves:

1. Is the intake valve the one nearest to the carbs and exhaust nearest to exhaust pipe or vice versa? Not the one, but the two. $ valves here. But yes intake twords the card. Exhaust twords the header.




2. When doing the adjustment is it better to be in the lower range 0.08mm or higher ranger range of 0.13 for intake valve.Or should it just be in the middle around 0.10mm? I set my valves on the tight side .08. Others might disagree. I have been adjusting valves on cars and trucks for years now. That is the way I have always done it and it works for me.

3. I am slightly confused when in my search when the piston is in compression stroke? (searching for some other guides sort of confused me) Should I just assume when I see the "T" on the magneto rotor as described in the service guide it is ok then? Ok this is easy. Remove the valve covers first. Once you have the T lined up grad the rocker arms and try to wiggle them. You should be able to wiggle both of them a slight amount. If you cant, turn the engine over 360, 540 Deg back to the T and try again. Once both rocker arms are loosethe T is lined up you are ready to go.

Any help would be greatly appreciated for this newby.
My .02
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Old 10-27-2007, 09:11 AM   #23
Freebird5150
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Awesome post Dave.. I always forget the factory specs at adjustment time and have to hunt or call 4 them. Wonder why they are not in the owners manual.. maybe to force us to buy a service manual.. BTW Ive tried to download a service manual but all links I tried to no avail.. Anyone got a service manual link that works? Thanks Dave for taking the time and quality pics..
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Old 10-27-2007, 09:36 AM   #24
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no problem. I dont have the link, but I do have the manual. Electronic. IF you know a way for me to get it to you just tell me how. I am not the best with computers, but I do know that it is to big for email.
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Old 10-27-2007, 09:58 AM   #25
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just went out and checked mine, been since 600 mile since i looked, now at 5400, all have clearance cold but seem tight.. cant find my damn feeler guage.. going to get a guage now.. please refresh my memory, intake and exhaust min amd max please sir? Most bikes have it on a sticker under the seat.. hmm I have a corbin seat...
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Old 10-27-2007, 10:36 AM   #26
Freebird5150
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Dealer says specs 4 dr650 are

intake .003-.005 inches or .08mm-.13mm
exhaust .0067-.0087 inches or .17-.22mm
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Old 10-27-2007, 02:08 PM   #27
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The most important "caution" here that I want to reitterate that some people wont understand is about that "TDC" line up in that little sight hole.
On a single cylinder engine that mark will pass the window 2 times.
Once on the compression stroke and once on the intake stroke that draws in your air/fuel mixture.
If you remove the crankshaft plate and use the socket method to turn the engine over, you can tell you're on TDC of the compression stroke by putting a finger into a spark plug hole (only remove 1 spark plug) and feeling for escaping air.
"caution" #2 only use anti-seize designed for use on aluminum or you can damage those allow threads anyway.
"caution" #3 it's better to have your specs on the loose side (still within spec though) than too tight.
Too tight and the valves wont properly seat against the heads and you'll "burn" the valves because they need that contact with the head to dissipate heat.
GREAT JOB! for the time you took to make this information available to the Noobies though! I hate seeing dealerships getting rich for such a simple procedure.
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Old 10-27-2007, 03:47 PM   #28
Freebird5150
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Got mine set and found the intakes were fine, but the exhaust had tightened up just a tad. I set mine in the middle of the range intake @ .10mm and exhaust @.20mm . I think setting them at one end of the range or the other is personal opinion, and I agree with both arguments, but it also has alot to do with how high rpms u run your engine. Exhaust valves tend to tighten up from high rpm. If you can find feelers with an angle, makes it alot easier to get a reading. I bent mine on the ends so they would not bind when checking the clearance.
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Old 11-01-2007, 06:11 PM   #29
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Old 11-01-2007, 06:32 PM   #30
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thanks.
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